Archive for January, 2009

DIY Instant Paper Mache

January 21st, 2009
Instant Paper Mache Funny Face

Instant Paper Mache Funny Face

Edit, 10/25/09. When I first tried this recipe for DIY instant paper mache it worked well. Since then, whenever I combine all three ingredients the goop instantly turns into something resembling rubber, and it can’t be used.

I think this may have worked the first time because a chemical used in the cellulose insulation may have been unevenly distributed in the bag. My first batch must not have had any of that chemical in the mix, (it’s probably the boron used for fireproofing and fungus control) so the first batch worked just fine. Other people have gotten this recipe to work every time, so it may depend on the brand of insulation you buy.

Click here for a much better paper clay recipe that is amazingly strong. It is a much better home-made product than the one shown in this old post.

I’m right in the middle of a project that is taking way longer than I thought it would. I needed a break, so I thought I’d show you how I make my own instant paper mache. I used it to make the funny face shown here, but I’m sure you can think of many other things to use it for.

I normally like to use the laminated type of papier mache – where you just tear strips of paper into pieces and attach them to a form using flour and water paste. However, many artists use paper pulp mixed with paste to make beautiful sculptures.

The traditional method of making this pulped paper is to soak paper (like newsprint) in water overnight and then press out as much water as you can. If the paper doesn’t separate out into little bits, some people boil it in water. Then a glue or paste is added, and it’s ready to use. I’ve never been very excited about it because it takes so long to dry, and I don’t usually want the texture that the pulp imposes on the piece. That’s just me, of course..

Art stores sell products that fix some of these problems by grinding the paper very fine and then mixing the powder with plaster. The powdered product is mixed with water just before use, it has a smooth texture, and it will set up stiff in just a few minutes. Sometimes, in fact, it sets up so quickly and becomes so hard that it’s difficult to finish a project fast enough.

A few days ago I threw together some left-over items from my latest home remodeling project, and I came up with what I’m calling DIY Instant Paper Mache. You probably won’t have some of these things on hand, and the paper itself comes in such a large package that it would keep many art students happy for a long time. However, if you’re doing some remodeling yourself or if you know anyone who is, you may be able to scrounge up the ingredients for some easy-to-make, super-cheap, and easy to use instant paper mache.

DIY Instant Paper Mache Ingredients

DIY Instant Paper Mache Ingredients

Step 1:

First, you need to gather your ingredients. You find these items at your local hardware store or building supply store – not the art store.

  • Joint Compound – it comes in several different size containers, and it’s fairly cheap. The container shown above is one gallon, and it cost about $8.00. If you have a big class, it is less expensive to buy it in the five-gallon containers. If it is very stiff when you open the container, you can add a little bit of water and stir it in. Joint compound is designed to easily cover the joints between large pieces of plaster board so you don’t see any seams on your wall. It isn’t plaster, but it does dry into a plaster-like finish that you can easily sand and paint.
  • Wood Glue – I use Titebond II because that’s what they sell at my local hardware store. A gallon costs about $14.00, but it lasts a very long time. You won’t need very much. In fact, you can leave it out completely if you want to, but the finished sculpture may not be as strong.
  • Cellulose Insulation – This is made from old newspapers, and it comes in a package about the size of a bale of hay. This package contains enough tiny bits of shredded paper to insulate 40 square feet of attic space – that’s a lot of paper – but it costs less than $10.00. In addition to the paper itself, it usually contains an anti-fungal ingredient. It’s also somewhat dusty or powdery. To keep the dust out of your lungs you should use a face mask if you intend to mix up a lot of this DIY paper mache.
DIY Instant Paper Mache, step 2

DIY Instant Paper Mache, step 2

Step 2:

If you’ve made up the traditional paper mache pulp before, it’s important to note that this recipe does not require you to soak the paper first. In fact, the product will firm up quickly (while still being soft enough to work) because the dry paper bits soak up the liquid from the glue and joint compound. As you see above, we’ll be using just a bit of cellulose insulation, in it’s dry form.

First, put some joint compound in your container. The glue and paper won’t add much volume, so use as much joint compound as you think you’ll need for your sculpture. Then add a bit of wood glue. You may need to experiment to see how much glue will work for your project. Too much wood glue will make the product very sticky (you’ll need to keep your fingers and tools wet to keep the paper mache from sticking to them). If you don’t use any glue at all the finished item will be easier to break. Play with it – this stuff is cheap!

Note: I used this recipe, with enough wood glue to color the product yellow, for the eyelashes on my paper mache giraffe.

DIY Instant Paper Mache, step 3

DIY Instant Paper Mache, step 3

Step 3:

Start adding your cellulose insulation bits just a little at a time. Mix well, and keep adding paper until you have the texture you like. The paper will begin to soak up the liquid in the joint compound and glue, so the more paper you add, the stiffer your instant paper mache will be while you work with it.

DIY Instant Paper Mache, Step 4

DIY Instant Paper Mache, Step 4

Step 4:

In the photo above I’ve mixed in my paper and the product is now stiffened enough to use for my little funny-face sculpture. If you want to make a more elaborate sculpture you will need an armature or form – and since this is really an experimental recipe, be sure to test it and play with it before using this recipe for any important projects!

DIY Paper Mache, Step 5

DIY Paper Mache, Step 5

Step 5:

If you’d like to test your new instant paper mache by making a little funny face, like the one shown at the top of this page, spread about 1/4 inch of the product on a plastic surface and start sculpting. I made my work surface by wrapping wide plastic tape over a scrap piece of cardboard. The paper mache won’t stick to it.

You can add bits of your instant paper mache to build up your form, but you should keep the depth under 1/2 inch so the paper mache can dry uniformly.

DIY Paper Mache, Step 6

DIY Paper Mache, Step 6

Step 6:

As you can see, I used my fingers and a table knife as my modeling tools.

The original sketch I used for this face actually came to me while sitting in the bathroom looking at the patterns on the vinyl tile. I’m sure that’s more info than you needed, but have you ever looked at a cloud or the texture on a wall or random patterns on a floor and suddenly you see a face or animal? If you look away and then look back again, you may not be able to find the image that seemed so clear just a few seconds ago.

If you have a sketch pad handy, try to copy the face or critter – you’ll come up with a drawing that is probably different than anything you’d normally do. That’s certainly the case with these faces.


I’ve been wanting to do some little faces for a long time, after reading Ode to the Human Face: Seeing/Molding the Human Face As Meditation.

Step 7:

Allow your little sculpture to dry naturally. I tried to rush mine by putting it on a radiator, and it started to crack around the little fellow’s nose. Once the piece is completely dry it will be very hard. However, you can soften it up again by soaking it in water. To protect it for permanent display you can use any paint. I’m experimenting with Kakishibu, a finish made in Japan from fermented persimmons. It is supposed to mellow and darken into beautiful brown tones over time.

And – the finished funny face, placed in a cheap frame (glass removed):

Finished Funny Face Made from DIY Instant Papier Mache

Finished Funny Face Made from DIY Instant Papier Mache

If you decide to experiment with DIY Instant Paper Mache, we’d all love to hear about it!

Paper Mache Giraffe, With Some Thoughts About Art…

January 9th, 2009
Paper Mache Giraffe Sculpture

Paper Mache Giraffe Sculpture

It took over a week, but my giraffe sculpture is finally finished. The neck was made with a cardboard armature (see the African mask tutorial). It took quite a lot of pushing, prodding, (and some wire “stitching”), to get the cardboard to behave the way I wanted it to. The process wasn’t pretty, and I won’t make you look at it.

The head was built with two layers of paper and raw flour and water paste over a temporary armature of paper and Super Sculpey. To see how that’s done, check out the paper mache rabbit tutorial.

The two layers of paper were strong enough to hold their shape, so I left the head hollow after removing the Sculpey. Even though the neck was weighted with plaster, I still needed the head to be very light so my cats can’t knock it over. The finished sculpture is 26″ tall, and the head is 15 inches long.

Paper Mache Giraffe, With Plants

Paper Mache Giraffe, With Plants

I’ve been thinking about doing a giraffe for years, but I finally got excited about actually doing it when I realized there was a perfect spot for it on the shelf where I keep my large houseplants.  A poster of an Indian elephant is above the shelf, and the colors of the poster nicely compliment the giraffe’s spots.

And this got me thinking about a book I read last year. In The View From The Studio Door: How Artists Find Their Way In An Uncertain World, Ted Orland suggests that many art students give up on art as soon as they graduate from art school because they no longer have a “place” for their artwork.

Students spend years producing work for their class critiques and a possible place in the campus gallery. Then, after graduation, creativity seems to dry up.

Orland believes that creativity can’t flourish unless an artist can imagine their work sitting in a specific place after it’s finished.

I know this has been true for me. Back when I made a living selling pen and ink drawings at the Pike Place Market in Seattle, I stopped drawing as soon as I had enough prints to fill my designated booth space. When I moved to Portland, I designed some paper mache animal dolls – but only as many as I needed for my Saturday Market display.

Jonnis Pen and Ink Prints

Jonni's Pen and Ink Prints

Jonnis Paper Mache Rabbit Doll

Jonni's Paper Mache Rabbit Doll

And now I’ve only begun sculpting again because this website gave me an “excuse” to create.

Once I was back in the swing of things, I found myself enjoying the learning process – pushing my understanding of paper mache as a sculptural medium in a way that I had not done before. And the website gives me a place for my finished sculptures, even the ones like the dragon that I don’t really “need” in my house.

But still, I find myself hesitating to create large items, even if I’ve thought about them for a long time – especially if they would be too complicated for a tutorial and therefore don’t really belong on this website.

How can I, or any artist, get excited about creating something if we can’t imagine the finished sculpture sitting somewhere?

How do people overcome this constraint? No artist starts out famous, with galleries or buyers begging for their work. So how does the beginning artist manage to make the paintings or sculptures or textile art – or whatever – without having a place to display them?

So, do you think Ted Orland is right? If you’ve been stymied by “artist’s block,” was it because you didn’t have a place to put your artwork when it was finished? If so, how did you keep it from silencing your muse?

Paper Mache Rabbit II

January 2nd, 2009
Make this Rabbit Sculpture

Make this Rabbit Sculpture

Project Difficulty Level: Advanced.

In a previous post I showed you how to make a little paper mache lop-eared bunny, using newspaper and masking tape to create the form. In this post I’ll show you how I created a Dutch rabbit using Super Sculpey as a temporary internal form.

I’ve been using the newspaper and masking tape technique for years, but it does have it’s drawbacks. It is cheap, but developing small details can be a real challenge. Creating details in Super Sculpey is easy – it’s a wonderful medium for sculpting, but I don’t like the “plastic” look of it after it’s been baked. For that reason, I decided to see what happens if you use the Sculpey for a form for a paper mache sculpture.

Since the Sculpey isn’t baked, and the paper mache doesn’t stick to it, you can use it again for another project (which is nice, since it’s pretty expensive).

Step 1:

Paper Mache Rabbit, Step 1

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 1

The first step was to create a little rabbit out of Super Sculpey. Once I was happy with the form, I start adding newsprint strips, using a paste made from flour and water.

To make a boiled paste, put one cup of water and a rounded tablespoon of white flour in a small saucepan. Mix this well (I use an electric mixer), so there are no lumps. Now put the pan on a burner and slowly bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. As soon as it begins to boil, remove it from the burner and allow it to cool. It will “gel” as it cools.

This paste is not as strong as the raw paste I normally use, (see the paper mache recipe page) but it does make it easier to bend the paper around small details.

Step 2:

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 2

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 2

In the photo you can see that the first layer of newsprint was allowed to dry, and I’m now adding the second layer of brown Kraft paper. I’m using a bag of beans to hold the rabbit in a convenient position. When adding the paper you need to be fairly careful that you don’t change the shape of the underlying Sculpey form. (I thought about putting the bunny in the freezer for a few minutes to firm him up, but I didn’t actually try it.)

Step 3:

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 3

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 3

Once the second layer of paper is completely dry, I used a very sharp box cutter to remove cut the rabbit in half. I cut in areas where there were no small details to worry about when the rabbit was put back together.

The Sculpey was then removed in pieces (you lose the original form, of course, but the clay can now be used again for something else.)

Step 4:

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 4

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 4

I now used strips of Kraft paper, dipped in the raw flour paste (just mix up some white flour with water, to the consistency of heavy cream) to add a layer on the inside of the rabbit, to reinforce the walls of the sculpture. In a recent experiment I found that the raw paste is stronger than the boiled paste.

Then I put the two halves back together, using Kraft paper and raw paste, and added the ears.

Step 5:

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 5

Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit, Step 5

From this point, the rabbit was finished just like the lop-eared bunny, except that I experimented with a glue-based gesso recipe I found online instead of the flour/water/glue recipe I used before.

The result:

The Finished Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit

The Finished Paper Mache Dutch Rabbit