Archive for July, 2009

Bulldog Sculpture is Finished

July 31st, 2009
Well, hes some kind of bulldog...

Well, he's some kind of bulldog...

The inspiration for this sculpture came from one of my first websites, which contains many original articles about choosing a dog from your local animal shelter. While I was doing the research for those articles I visited many Humane Society websites as well as taking a lot of trips to the shelter in Portland, Oregon. I found that one of the most common breeds in big-city pounds looked very much like this one.

Like most of those pound puppies, my “bulldog” is really a mutt. I think of this as the quintessential American mongrel – loyal, sturdy and courageous, he would have been a valued family companion in any frontier town. In big cities, where backyards are small, every dog he meets on the street is a stranger, and families work away from home for many hours a day, this is the type of dog that many people think of first when they hear someone use the term “too much dog.”

Name that breed?

Name that breed?

So what kind of dog is he, really? The broken brindle coat seems to imply “American bulldog.” A quick search through the photos on the American Bulldog Rescue website suggests that this term is a euphemism for “pit bull.” Another creative way animal shelters use to not say pit bull  is “boxer/lab cross.” In this case, however, our pup might really be part boxer. At least his first owner must have thought so – why else would his tail be docked?

Bulldog sculpture, another view.

Bulldog sculpture, another view.

This sculpture is fairly large. He’s 17 1/2″ tall, 23″ long and 10″ wide. I used a press-board armature, as I did for the paper mache jackrabbits. I didn’t take photos of the bulldog in process, but he was made using the techniques you’ll find in the panda tutorial. He was finished with a glue/marble dust gesso, natural pigments, and acrylic paint, with a matte finish.

As I came close to finishing this bulldog sculpture I realized that he reminds me a lot of a dog we had when I was a kid. Henry J. was a great dog. He could chase balls for hours and he was very polite when I shared my ice cream with him (I don’t think my mother knew we both used the same spoon.) But he did have a few faults. One of them was being a bit too quick to fight when he encountered strange dogs, an embarrassing trait when we camped at State parks.

Henry J.

Here’s a sketch I did of Henry J. when I was about 10 years old, a very long time ago. He grew to be about 35 to 40 pounds, but the local animal shelter sold him to my grandfather as a Boston terrier cross. While he was still a tiny puppy we believed it. In truth, he was just a shelter dog, a mutt, and a wonderful family companion.

Last week I started out with 5 sculptures in process. I finished the polar bear a few days ago, and I should have the old gray mare done in the next day or so. One of the sculptures I started with didn’t make the cut and ended up in the compost heap (we can’t win them all…), so the last project in this group will be my Australian shepherd. Stay tuned.

Now I think I’ll go buy my bulldog a nice red collar.

Polar Bear Sculpture, From a Busy Week in My Studio

July 29th, 2009
Polar Bear Sculpture

Polar Bear Sculpture

This polar bear is a small sculpture, about 6″ high and 11″ long. I used a very thin wash of pearl white acrylic paint to give it a soft sheen. The project used the basic techniques shown in the lop-eared bunny sculpture. I did not use a cardboard pattern, as I did for the panda bear sculpture or the echidna.

My learning goal for this series of sculptures is to loosen up a little. I’m trying to do that by working from quick sketches instead of using photos for my models. With the polar bear I wanted to emphasize the forward slant of his back and the sense of him being on the prowl, which is shown by his raised front paw. I’m not sure I succeeded, but the project was fun.

I also spent some time in the last few weeks playing around with clay, to remind myself that spontaneity is fun. The paper mache process sometimes requires so much time between each step that it’s easy for me to forget the “fun” part. Whenever that happens, I feel it’s time to reconnect with that aspect of my art.

. 5 Animal Sculptures in Progress

5 Animal Sculptures in Progress

This has been a very hot week here in Eastern Oregon. I had to move some of my work from the front porch to the back deck. Before the move I was cutting into my early morning reading time and rushing into my studio to get work done before the sun’s heat drove me out, usually before 8am. In the photo above you can see the five animal sculptures that are now in process.

I also made a few changes to this blog. I noticed that many of the paper mache tutorials are old enough that they were falling out of the “recent posts” section in the sidebar. To make it easier for you to find the tutorial you’re looking for, or to just “shop around,” I put together a separate tutorial page, which you can reach from the links at the top of each post. Now you can just find the image of an animal sculpture you’d like to try, click on it, and go directly to that tutorial.

I’ll soon be putting together a gallery page to show the animal sculptures that are available for sale. My small house is quickly running out of room, and the materials are beginning to be expensive. (Relatively expensive, of course. Compared to other sculptural media, paper mache is very inexpensive.) My bulldog-type pound pooch I’m now working on, for instance, used up more than $5 worth of masking tape – and the Australian shepherd behind him in the photo above needed even more. I also bought some roll-ends of newsprint so I’d always have materials to work on without raiding the local want-ad paper stand. And I purchased some new paints online (why are art supplies so dang expensive?).

So – if I want to keep making these critters, I need to find new homes for some of them. If you’re interested in owning one of these sculptures instead of making one yourself, watch for the new gallery page, coming in the next few days.

Paper Mache Jackrabbits

July 13th, 2009

This pair of jackrabbits are made over a solid pressboard armature, and are finished with natural pigments. They are almost lifesized. The huge ears of the jackrabbits were a real challenge – I took a lot of time to make sure they were very firmly attached and strong enough to stand up to a reasonable amount of handling, without making them look unnaturally heavy.

Male Jackrabbit Sculpture

"Male" Jackrabbit Sculpture

Female Jackrabbit Sculpture

"Female" Jackrabbit Sculpture

When I finished sculpting the faces on this pair of jackrabbits I noticed that the one sitting up appeared to have a more feminine expression than the other hare. I tried to accent the differences by making the “girl” a lighter color than her mate.

These desert hares are my first attempt to work on more than one paper mache sculpture at a time – something I need to do more often. My paper mache/mixed media sculptures need to dry completely between every step, so it takes many days for a project to be done – but that leaves many hours in every day when I could be working on another sculpture.

I learn something new with every paper mache animal sculpture I make, so it stands to reason that I will learn even faster if I make more sculptures. That’s one of the theories behind the painting a day movement, which my daughter is involved in.

The jackrabbits are built over an armature made of pressboard. The armature gives them a nice weight that I find rather pleasing. You can see the armature in the unfinished jackrabbits, below:

Unfinished Jackrabbits

Jackrabbits in Process

Except for the material I used to make the armature, the jackrabbits were made using the techniques shown in detail in the paper mache panda post.

Papier Mache Artist’s Sites to Visit

July 7th, 2009

Yesterday, while I was waiting for the final coat of paper and paste to dry on my pair of jackrabbits, I decided to do a bit of surfing to find a few paper mache artists’ sites to share with you.

My first stop was The Papier Mache Resource, one of my favorite sites. Their forum members have helped me out several times, and I feel I should visit much more often.

While I was there I checked out their links page. I was disappointed to find that so many of the sites they link to are no longer online. (If you’re about to give up on your own site, be sure to read my post about how to improve website traffic).

Below are a few of my favorite paper mache sculpture websites.

Figure Sculptures:

Tiffany Ownbey. Scroll down the page to see her imaginative figure sculptures, which are deceptively simple. She uses many found objects in her work, and she shows her work at many galleries nationwide.

Orhan Taylan. Papier mache figure sculptures in the classical style.

Animal Sculptures:

Karen Cronor. I do appreciate realistic animal sculptures, and these are really wonderful. Love the coyotes.

Lorraine Berkshire-Roe’s Papier Mache Pets.  Her critters have such interesting characters – you just know they’d be fun to live with.

La Machouille. Even if you can’t read the French (I admit I can’t), the paintings and papier mache sculptures on this site are definitely worth a visit. There’s a very interesting contrast between the artist’s highly realistic paintings of animals, and the whimsical, loosely interpreted sculptures of the same subjects. Is it the medium imposing itself on the artist, or the other way around?

Ellen Carlier’s Papier Mache Art. Cows, a kangaroo – lovely, whimsical critters.

Nancy Winn. Found objects create amazing fur and textures on these imaginative paper mache animal sculptures.

Hitomi Oikawa. I’m particularly fond of her pig – click around until you find it. I discovered a bit of history on this site – according to the artist, paper mache was first used in China to make warriors’ helmets. The craft was later brought to England for use in making furniture. Did you know that?

That’s all for today. My jackrabbits are now ready for their ears…

Playful Paper Mache Panda You Can Make

July 2nd, 2009
Paper Mache Panda Playing with Ball

Paper Mache Panda Playing with Ball

The paper mache panda I promised is finished, and you can make one of your own using the following photos and instructions.This is a fairly advanced project, but if you have any prior experience with paper mache you should be able to make a very nice panda of your own.

Before making your panda, be sure to look up lots of panda photos on Google. You’ll want to refer to the photos of real bears as well as following the instructions below. Then your bear will end up looking exactly the way you want it to.

Caution: This bear would be adorable in a baby’s room, but please remember that the paint and finish materials of this bear are not really safe for babies and toddler’s to eat – and teething babies will chew on a paper mache animal. (The nose is always the first thing to go). For that reason, I don’t recommend that small children be allowed to play with these critters until after they stop teething.

Making the Pattern

Paper Mache Panda Pattern

Paper Mache Panda Pattern

I’ve discovered that it’s much easier to build a paper mache animal sculpture if you make a side-view pattern, and then build the sculpture around this pre-set form. I have never seen anyone else do this, so it may be an entirely new invention. You don’t need to use a pattern, but you should try it at least once to see if it helps.

You can draw your own pattern right on a piece of cardboard, or you can print my panda pattern (PDF) twice and cut out the body from the first one and the legs and arms from the second one. Then trace around your pattern onto cardboard and cut it out. If you use my pattern you might need to set your printer to print landscape style in order to get the pattern big enough.

When I was halfway through making my panda I decided that I wanted his head to be turned a bit to the side. If you know in advance you want to do that, you can cut through the pattern at the neck, from both the front and the back , leaving just a small tab in the middle. Then twist the pattern into the position you like before adding your newsprint and masking tape.

Building the Body

Adding Paper to the Pattern

Adding Paper to the Pattern

Now that you have your pattern cut out, start crumpling newspaper into balls. Build up both sides of the pattern with the newsprint and lots of masking tape.

Both the tummy and the head are almost perfectly round. Be sure to add smaller pieces at the back of the neck so the body and head blend into each other above the shoulders.

When you have the head finished, add smaller paper crumples to the muzzle. Your pattern will help you place the muzzle correctly (see photo below).

Adding the Legs

Positioning the Panda Legs and Arms

Positioning the Panda Legs and Arms

Using your masking tape, tape the feet to the bottom of the legs and then position the legs the way you want them on the body. Remember that pandas slouch when they sit on their tails, (just like we do when we watch TV), and that means that the hip is further forward than you might expect. I found that it helped me find the right positions if I temporarily taped the arms on, too.

I chose to have one of the legs leaning a bit to the side so the foot turns outward. Play around with the position of the legs and arms until your panda bear is doing exactly what you want him to do. Little balls of crumpled newspaper between the top of the legs and the body will help you arrange the legs the way you like.

Now add more paper to the inside and outside of the panda’s legs, making them nice and fat.

Feet and Hips

Panda Bears Feet and Hips

Panda Bear's Feet and Hips

Add little bits of paper to the top of the foot and another bit for the ball of his foot.

Then use flattened wads of paper to smooth out the shape above the legs. Pandas have very heavy fur coats, so you can’t easily see the joints. If you don’t smooth out the shape above the legs, he might look like a stuffed teddy bear, instead of a “real” panda.

Adding Arms and Shoulders

Adding Arms and Shoulders

Adding Arms and Shoulders

Now do the same thing with the panda’s arms. Be sure to bend the arms at the elbow and wrist, and bend the claws down towards the body. Then fill in the shape with crumpled paper and masking tape. It’s easiest if you fill out the inside of the arms before taping them to the body.

Once the arms are firmly attached and filled out, turn your panda around so you can see his back. Fill in the spaces at his shoulders, between the body and the arms. He should be fairly smooth across the shoulders.

Adding the Paper Mache

Adding Paper Mache to the Panda

Adding Paper Mache to the Panda

Your panda should now look pretty much like the photo on the left, above. If you want your panda to be lying on his back, now would be a good time to add his tail. If you want him to sit up, don’t add a tail because it will make it hard for him to balance on his bottom.

Make your paste from flour and water. Just pour some flour in a small bowl and add a little tap water at a time. Stir well with a fork or spoon, and add just enough water to make a paste about the consistency of thick cream. Dip one side of a strip of newspaper into the paste, and draw the wet side against the side of your bowl to remove the excess. Then carefully smooth it down onto your panda bear.

You’ll have to do this in two stages, so there’s always a dry spot for the bear to sit on. I made my bear with one layer of newspaper and paste, and then in the steps below you’ll see I add another layer of brown paper.

Adding the Expression and Ears

Giving Panda a Smile and Ears

Giving Panda a Smile and Ears

Use small pieces of newspaper to shape your panda’s smile. You might need to play around with this a bit until you get just the expression that you like. My panda ended up with a very lopsided smile – I could have “fixed” it, but I think it gives him character.

You’ll also want to add his nose. You can build up a nose with a strip of newspaper dipped in paste and then folded into a triangle, the way you fold a flag. Then cut nostrils with an old pair of scissors.

While the paper mache on the panda’s head is still wet, use your thumbs to push in the places just above his muzzle where the eyes will go. You can see in the photo below.

The panda’s ears are very furry. Cut two ears from light cardboard and bend it into a cup shape. Attach the ears with strips of newspaper and paste. Then fill in the fur by dipping a piece of paper towel into paste and rolling it up. Attach the roll of paper towel to the inside edge of the ear with more paper strips. (I really intended to take a photo of this step, but it looks like I forgot. Sorry…)

At this point I decided that I wanted my bear to be looking a little to the side. To do that, I cut off his head with a serrated bread knife and re-attached it to the panda’s body with lots of strips of newspaper and paste. I quite often cut things off and put them back on again to get things just the way I want them. You certainly don’t need to do this if you like your bear’s posture as it is.

Smoothing with Joint Compound

Smoothing the Panda

Smoothing the Panda

I like to use joint compound to smooth out the bumps on my paper mache animal sculptures. You find joint compound at the hardware store. It’s normally used to finish new walls. It costs about $7 for a gallon, and this amount will last for a very long time.

I add a little water so the joint compound goes on easily. It’s applied with a table knife.

The joint compound dries quickly, and is very easy to sand. Be sure to do your sanding outside.

Now your bear is ready for his final coat of paper mache. I like to use brown paper for the final coat, because the pieces seem to melt into each other very nicely, and create a good smooth surface.

Drying, and Adding Fur

Resting, and Adding Fur

Resting, and Adding Fur

I dried my panda’s last coat of paper mache out on the garden fence, and I couldn’t resist taking that photo.

When the brown paper layer is completely dry, you can add texture to look like fur. Since I alreay had the joint compound out, I thinned it with a little bit of white glue and painted it on with an old, stiff brush. You can achieve much the same effect using a layer of flour and water paste. That’s the way I did the fur on my lop-eared bunny, and it turned out quite nice.

I also added eyes with the wet joint compound. I explain that below.

Adding Eyes, Sanding and Painting

Adding Eyes and Painting Spots

Adding Eyes and Painting Spots

You can see above that I added the eyes using the joint compound. I painted a very thin layer of joint compound onto the muzzle and in the areas where the eyes would go. Then I used the round wooden end of a small brush to draw the eyes into the joint compound. Then I dropped a bit of joint compound onto the eye. While it was still wet it looked like a pointy Hershey’s kisses. When it dried I used sandpaper to smooth off the point. The result was very subtle, but effective

After the joint compound fur dried I sanded it down quite a lot. Without the sanding it looked a little too much like he’d been frosted. You can see the final texture in the photo above.

I painted the bear with a warm white acrylic paint. After the first coat dried I drew the panda’s fur pattern onto the bear with a pencil. I mixed a little bit of brown into my black acrylic paint to warm it up a little, and then painted the black areas.

Finishing the Panda

Finish Coats on the Panda

Finish Coats on the Panda

Once the black areas were painted, I dipped the end of a toothpick into the white paint and used the toothpick as a brush to add tiny dots of reflected light into the eyes. Then the panda was given a coat of Latex Glaze, which I purchased several years ago at the hardware store. It’s milky when it’s first applied, but dries to a clear matte finish.

When the glaze was dry I brought out the texture of the fur by painting on a mixture of Minwax Water-Based Polycrylic and a tiny amount of color. This mixture was first used back when I made the paper mache dragon, and I’ve added a few drops of additional colors each time I use it. I no longer have any idea what colors are in it – but if I was starting over from scratch I’d probably use a little bit of brown and a little bit of blue to make a nice warm grey.

This mixture is brushed onto a very small area of the white part of the panda and then immediately wiped off with a wet paper towel or sponge. If you do this step you must be quick. You only want the shadows to be brought out, without really changing the color of the fur.

The Finished Paper Mache Panda

Finished Paper Mache Panda

Finished Paper Mache Panda