About the Artist

83 comments

Jonni, Getting Some Help From Her Friends

Jonni, Getting Some Help From Her Friends

Thanks for visiting my website. My name is Jonni Good, and I’ve been adding posts and tutorials to this blog since November, 2008. It’s now one of the most popular paper mache websites online.

I’m obsessed with both animals and art – as you can see from the photo, I’m constantly surrounded by my growing menagerie of paper mache animal sculptures, and plenty of real critters, too – my pets sometimes “help” me in my studio. You’ll also hear that cat, (unfortunately) in some of the videos on this blog. (I’m pretty good at training dogs. Cats – not so much.)

I started drawing animals back in grade school, which is a very, very long time ago. Doing the research required for drawing and sculpting animals is almost as fun as doing the artwork, because it allows me to learn so much about the natural world.

I made my living selling pen and ink “portraits” of wild animals for many years while my daughter was in grade school, and then, as many artists do, I found myself working at “real” jobs for a while. That was OK, I suppose, but it really wasn’t what I wanted to be doing with my life.

Now that I’m self-employed (I make websites and write books for a living), I have plenty of time to pursue my first love – sculpting and drawing and painting animals.  In my “spare” time, I answer questions from fellow paper mache sculptors from all over the world – you’ll find our conversations in the comments section below each post on this blog. In addition to creating my paper mache animal sculptures, I also write tutorials showing how you can make them, too. And I’m  the author of the new book Make Animal Sculptures with Paper Mache Clay, (that piglet at the top of this blog is one of the projects in the book), and Endangered Animals Color and Learn Book.

Enjoy the site, create your sculptures, and join the conversation. I’m glad you stopped by.

{ 83 comments… read them below or add one }

Charisse Eaves May 2, 2010 at 9:01 pm

You are gifted thank you so much for all your information, you are quite inspiring.

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addie May 22, 2010 at 7:42 pm

i finally figured out what the man from indiana said about not being able to understand you “measurements” …sometimes when the “translation” happens in type don’t know why, but it turns out as a “?”. when i was looking at your instructions on the “clay” that says tear the t.p. into 1 ” strips is says 1? ..just an observation and one that has been on my crazy mind for a while. do you ever get those things, oddities that you think and think over everytime you see it? that was my thing..sorry..haha!

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Jonni May 23, 2010 at 12:20 pm

Hi Addie – thanks for pointing that out. It was actually a typo on my part, and I just now fixed it. You’d make a great editor!

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Adrianne May 29, 2010 at 7:14 pm

Hi….
I really like your site and today I tried making the paper mache clay….I want to make a bowl and then drill some wholes around the top edge and do a little basketry work on around the top…..I used a stainless steel bowl as a mold and just put the clay all over it….now I am wondering if the paper mache clay will come off of it? Thanks

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Jonni May 29, 2010 at 9:01 pm

Hi Adrianne. I don’t actually know the answer to that, since I’ve never tried it. I would say wait and see – it sounds like it will work, but I can’t be sure. If the dried clay does stick to the metal bowl, you can always clean the bowl by soaking it in water. And if it doesn’t stick, you’ll have a successful project. Let us know how it turns out….

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Marty Chamberlain April 24, 2011 at 11:04 pm

You can put vaseline on the bowl or plastic wrap which will make it easier to remove. That is what I do when I use a metal bowl as a mold.

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Tim July 10, 2010 at 5:03 am

I just purchased your new book about making paper mache clay animals, but wanted to get started before it arrives. Have completed masking tape paper wrapped hands and ears for my Alice in Wonderland rabbit. Would you mache these with paper strips/towels or mache clay. I have prepared both. Also made a pocket watch out of sculpey clay and baked it. Want to mache this as well. Would you remove clay form after mache is dry?

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Jonni July 10, 2010 at 8:29 am

Hi Tim. Great hands. The sculpey does not need to be removed if you baked it. Raw Sculpey needs to be taken out of any paper mache sculpture after the paper mache dries, because the oil in the Sculpey will migrate outwards and ruin the finish.

Whether you use traditional strips and paste or the paper mache clay really depends on which one you most enjoy working with. The clay only needs one thin coat (two at the most) and can be modeled. But your hand armatures are very detailed already, so they would finish up beautifully with paper strips and paste. You’ll just need to apply more layers to get a hard “skin.”

Be sure to show us your finished rabbit when it’s done. So far it’s looking great.

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Tim July 10, 2010 at 5:04 am

These are the additional forms

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Tim July 10, 2010 at 5:05 am

And here.

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Natasha July 12, 2010 at 3:49 pm

Hi,
I was wondering, if you could help me with idea for my project. I need to made a pinata shaped as a giant jelly bean. If you’ve ever come across any idea, how to do this particular shape, and could let me know, I’d appreciate very much. Thanks.

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Jonni July 12, 2010 at 5:29 pm

Hi Natasha. I think a jelly bean shape is two balls taped together, with a triangular bit of paper between them, making a curved, rounded shape. I’d do it with crumpled paper and masking tape.

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Natasha July 13, 2010 at 11:48 am

Thank you

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Sunita July 15, 2010 at 8:15 am

Hi Jonni,

You are really great at your art from whatever I have just seen on your website. I wanted to learn paper mache and you have done a great job of teaching how to make the clay and I will soon be trying it out when I move to my new home ( I live in just a single rented room now and have to keep my desire and interest to start the project currently curtailed). Will send you pictures once I am done.

Thank you for being such a wonderful inspiration.

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Margi July 18, 2010 at 3:12 am

Hello Jonni, since very young, as a child already, wanted to do this paper mache art.
Today I found your great web site, hopfully am getting to go now as from here.
Kind regards

Margi

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Teresa July 30, 2010 at 7:45 pm

Hola! My name is Teresa, i’m from Mexico… I just started trying to find out how to make papermache and i saw your website I LOVE IT!!!!
I made the paper mache clay and it works so good. I just have one question, Do you always aply gesso at the end of each project to make them smooth??
I made this figurines so far and i have two more bigger ones that i haven’t finished.
Well, i’ll be checking this website, you are so good!!! Have a great weekend!
Adios!

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Joyce Reyes August 26, 2010 at 3:10 pm

Hola Teresa;
Your little things are all cute but I especially love the little LadyBug.
Thanks for sharing.

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Teresa August 28, 2010 at 3:54 pm

Thanks Joyce….

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Holly November 21, 2010 at 11:44 am

Just found this website and started exploring. I love these colorful creatures! Que precioso! I help a lot with a local performing arts school; I’m going to have a great new medium for props, sets, and costumes! Thanks for sharing.

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Melissa Mondo August 11, 2010 at 9:58 am

I love your website!!!
I’m super excited to dive into paper mache. . .I just completed the armature for a life sized horse (head and neck) sculpture, and I can’t wait to try your clay recipe!!
Thanks for the fantastic info!

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Jonni August 11, 2010 at 10:35 am

Hi Melissa. I sure hope you’ll let us see your horse when it’s done!

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Melissa Mondo August 11, 2010 at 3:33 pm

Here are a few pictures of my progress so far. I built a cardboard-wadded scrap paper-duct tape armature and applied one layer of flour/paper strip covering to establish a base layer for the clay, which I’m hoping to make tonight or tomorrow. I haven’t done paper mache since I was a kid, and I’m having lots of fun!

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Jonni August 11, 2010 at 4:05 pm

Wow – your horse is really coming along nicely. It will be fabulous when it’s done. I can’t wait to see how it turns out.

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Melissa Mondo August 11, 2010 at 3:35 pm

and

Paper Mache Horse

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Monica November 1, 2010 at 12:31 pm

Hi Melissa,
I was wondering, how did you make the head?
It looks amazing! I am trying to make a life-sized horse head but I don’t think it will turn out as nice as that. If you could share some tips that would be great!
Thanks,
Monica

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Melissa Mondo August 11, 2010 at 3:37 pm

paper mache layer:

Paper Mache Horse

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Melissa Mondo August 11, 2010 at 3:39 pm

another view:
Paper Mache Horse

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Clarice August 12, 2010 at 6:20 am

Hello Jonni! I love your work especially the elephant. I was wondering have you ever heard of wool paper or sell it. I’ve always wanted to try and make a Venetian style mask and apparently that’s the paper they use, but I can’t find it anywhere. Or do you know anything that will work just as well. Your help would be much appreciated. After being on your website though I now want to try and make animals as well :-D

Many thanks
Clarice

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Jonni August 12, 2010 at 11:59 am

I don’t know if wool is made into paper, but I know it’s made into Venetian masks. See my previous answer here.

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Barbara Teixeira August 25, 2010 at 9:21 pm

I just want to thank you for sharing your work and ideas. I started this May doing my first sculpture (of my dog). Then I found your site and now my dining room has become a zoo. I am working on the giraffe and totally enjoying each step of the way. So I wanted to share my work that you have inspired me to do with you.

Paper Mache Giraffe

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Jonni August 26, 2010 at 9:41 am

Wonderful! It looks like you now have as many critters in your house as I do :)

Did you take any photos of the giraffe’s armature, by any chance? Any advice to our readers for making a large sculpture like that?

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Joyce Reyes August 26, 2010 at 3:03 pm

OH MY!! This is going to be a wonderful Giraffe. My grandaughter would be delighted with it. I’m so glad so many are finding the home made clay something they can work with. Life had taken over here again with a leaking fish pond I am having to try to redo. Hotter than a pistol outside after about 11 so my slow old baud just don’t get things done fast any more. I have been making flowers and grapes to go on my next gourd project but that is easy and I can do them sitting in front of the Boob tube when I’m tired of trying to create something I know nothing about. LOL Keep up the good work and keep showing. I WILL get my turn. LOL I’m wondering if I will be able to make these tiny little things with the home made clay.

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Barbara M. Kaplowitz October 11, 2010 at 5:09 pm

Here is my papier mache horse sculpture meeting its inspiration Peaches.

Paper Mache Horse Head

Paper Mache Horse

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Jonni October 12, 2010 at 6:18 pm

Both your paper mache horse, and the real one, are lovely. I’m sorry your other photos didn’t come through, but I do hope you’ll try again so we can see more of them.

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GrandmaJoyce Reyes October 12, 2010 at 3:31 pm

You did a great job on your horse. Had you worked with the paper clay like this before? Keep up the good work.

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Sraddha October 27, 2010 at 5:31 pm

Hi Jonni, great art! I’m trying to make a paper mache outfit for my daughter for Halloween. I have this idea where I’d like to make her tail, head and maybe neck and somehow attach that to her body with a belt of something. She just turned three and has it stuck in her head that she wants to be a swan for her first Halloween and I’d really like to do something “with” her instead of just buying something for her. I haven’t done paper mache since I was a teenager, but I’d really like to learn how. Could you please help…on such short notice?

Thanks for sharing your art!
Many blessings,
Sraddha

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Jonni October 27, 2010 at 7:15 pm

Wow – three or four days. That’s a very fast project, but you might be able to do it, if you get all the paper mache applied to whatever armature you create tomorrow, and put it in front of a heater or over a furnace vent to dry. At this late date, you may actually have better luck building a costume with white cloth, get a feather boa from the craft store to go around the edges. The head and neck would be challenging, but that’s true with paper mache, too.

I don’t want to discourage you from giving it a try, but the paper and paste take a long time to dry, and I wouldn’t want your daughter to be disappointed. If you decide to do it, be sure to get started now. And put the pieces in a nice warm place where air moves, but not too close to a heater that you have a fire hazard.

Good luck! I hope your daughter has a great Halloween.

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Cathie D. November 1, 2010 at 10:35 am

I LOVED the paper mache clay! It was so easy to form and shape and drying time was only a few hours (with help from my blow dryer). Thank you so much for sharing this with us all. I think I found a new hobby! I have some pictures of the masks we did for the Texas Renn fair, but I am unable to post them here… is there a trick to post em?

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Jonni November 1, 2010 at 12:19 pm

Yes – there is a “trick.” Basically, you need to forget everything you’ve ever learned about html linking, and just give me the URL of your photos. I tried to explain it in the post, above, but it is giving people problems because WordPress invented a new way of doing things, and didn’t bother explaining it to us first :) .

Here’s the short version: Post your images on a photo-sharing site, like http://imgur.com/, for instance, and then copy the URL of your photo into the comment box. Don’t use any html code (such as <a href= or <img src= ) or forum code (such as [img]) because Wordpress will strip out the code and anything enclosed within the brackets – as I'm sure you noticed. (Thanks for trying so hard – and we really do want to see those masks!)

All we need is the actual URL of the photo. It ends with .jpg

When I approve your comment I’ll add your photo to your comment in the admin panel of the blog, as long as it’s small enough to fit. Imgur automatically gives you three sizes, so if your original image is too large I’ll grab a smaller one off their website if you use that file sharing service. If you’d prefer to simply send people to your own web page to see your sculptures, just add the URL (but no linking code!) and WordPress will make your link “live” automatically.

I hope that helps. Let me know if you run into any more problems. This is a new system for all of us.

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Lesley from Australia November 11, 2010 at 6:06 pm

Hi Jonni, thanks for your great site and videos. I have just been watching a few of your videos, and was wondering how you pad out your work with paper. Do you roll it in balls or fold it or what. Mine never seems to bulk out in the shape I want it, there are sharp pointy bits and bits hanging over the edge etc. I see that on the smaller pieces you use alfoil (aluminium foil) which is more flexible than paper and that helps me a lot, but any tips on getting a good paper, padded shape will be appreciated. Kind regards, Lesley.

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Jonni November 12, 2010 at 3:36 pm

Hi Lesley. I just wad up some paper and stick it on the armature. Some poking and prodding usually gets it to behave. You do need to use fairly soft paper, like the kind they make newspapers out of, because stiff paper is hard to work with.

Folding would take a lot more paper than wadding it up.

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jackie November 12, 2010 at 11:57 am

I just wanted to say thank you. I went looking for a tutorial on paper mache and found yours on youtube. But what I got in addition was how to turn a 2d object into 3d. It was wonderful to learn how to create an armature from a drawing.

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Laurie Doherty November 17, 2010 at 8:59 am

Hi,

I ran on to your site a couple of months ago. I am still working on a smaller version of your elephant. I was so take by the generostiy in sharing what you have learned from websites to paper mache and etc. I bought your book this last week from Amazon.com. I am really enjoying it. Then I was really amazed when I saw the address in the book. I live in Pendleton and have been painted windows for the Pendleton Round-up for 40+ years. I have been thinking about publishing a book about my cartooning years. Do you do that kind of thing ?Or are you intersted? Let me know.

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Jonni November 17, 2010 at 10:33 am

Hi Laurie – nice to meet you!

I like the idea for you book. I only “publish” my own books, since you don’t need a real publisher any more. Have you seen my videos where I talk about how to self-publish a book? (I just sent my latest, a coloring book for older kids, to the printer on Monday. I can’t wait to see how it looks in print – keep your fingers crossed for me). I think The creative process of making a book is even more fun than paper mache, if that’s possible. I do recommend that you read several books, which I mention in the videos, so you’ll know all the steps before you get started. The first video is here – then click on the “next post” links at the bottom of the page to see the whole series.

Right now, I’m trying to talk my dad into writing a how-to book about cast-stone pet memorials and stepping stones. It would be fun to turn him into a published author, but it’s not really possible to know in advance if it would sell.

If you write your book, please keep us all updated on your progress. We’ll be happy to cheer you on.

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Laurie Doherty November 17, 2010 at 5:36 pm

Hii again,

I tried to go where you suggested for videos in the previous post but I recieved an error message of some sorts. Could you resend the link please because I am interested.

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Jonni November 17, 2010 at 8:13 pm

Oops – my bad. I fixed the link. You can find the first video here. Enjoy.

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Lovell November 26, 2010 at 4:45 am

hi Jonni, Lovell here in SouthAfrica,
I am trying to make yor clay, the closest to ‘jont compond’ that i can ind here is Rhinoglide (any advice from other South Africans please?) this is a powder. Is the joint copound aready mixed paste or a powder you mix up? ie a cup of powder, or paste, if paste what is its consisancy? I could pick it up from the video.
Thank you so very much for your generosity in sharing this info.
Lovell

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Jonni November 26, 2010 at 8:48 am

Hi Lovell. The joint compound I use is already mixed with water when I buy it, but it’s also available as a powder. If the powder you buy has instructions on the package, go ahead and use the amount of water they suggest. You will end up with a thick mixture that will be quite thick and smooth. The clay recipe might need some adjustment and experimentation to get it the consistency you want, but it seems to work well even if you change the amounts somewhat.

Enjoy!

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Dawn Mickel December 30, 2010 at 10:37 am

Dear Jonni,
Thank you for a great website…you have really gotten my creative juices flowing again. I have been making ceramic relief tiles for a while now and was looking for a means to create the same images using a lighter material. (I want to make larger and larger murals, but they were getting way too heavy) I have done some experiments with your “first” recipe of paper clay and can not wait to see if the new one will work better for picking up detail etc. I also purchased all the mold making materials from Far West as you recommnded.
One problem I am having to date is warping and curling …any suggestions? Thank you so much for sharing all your incredible work and knowlege with us. Dawn

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Jonni December 30, 2010 at 11:33 am

Hi Dawn. I had the same problem with warping with the new recipe, so it wasn’t the success I had hoped. It worked well when added to a paper armature, because it dries from both sides. When it dries only from the top, it distorts the shape.

My father (the concrete guy) and I are now experimenting with something that isn’t paper mache, but uses paper. It’s a cross between the paper crete/padobe recipe with a technique for making thin slabs that I found in an alternative home building book written by an architect in Brazil. So far, the results have been very promising – light weight, good detail, and strong enough for art purposes, although we’re not sure if they could be used for any structural purposes. My father used the first recipe on the page that I linked to above (using potter’s clay instead of earth). Since I can’t buy sand in a bag small enough for me to lift, I’ll try the last recipe on that page today, and I’ll be reinforcing it with a light plastic mesh, as the fellow from Brazil suggested. I should have the full results up in a few days – I had to order a bag of Portland cement, which just came today. Check the main page of this site in a few days, if you haven’t signed up for the email version of the posts.

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aven p rosch February 23, 2011 at 9:08 am

Jonni, thank you so much for this wonderful website as it saved my sanity during a long bout with the Shingles these past weeks. Nights when I could not sleep I entered your site to focus on learning PM and escape the pain.

Because of your site I was and am able to create creatures that has been jumping around in my head for years. A life size mermaid (yet to be named) made up ofl old styrofoam packing blocks, meat trays (usually used for drain pans in my green house), panty hose, soda bottles, waffel weave rubber shelf liner, aluminum foil, masking tape, balloon your PM mix and clay. She is still being finished as is a seahorse, amazing fish and a jelly fish.

I will send pictures when they are painted and finished. Thank you again!
Sincerely I remain,
Aven
large octopus

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Sydney Forrester March 3, 2011 at 8:19 am

I love your clay receipe……..made two flamingos for a Mardi GRAS float….but my question is how do you get the clay smooth once you apply it?

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Jonni March 3, 2011 at 2:36 pm

I smooth it as much as possible with the flat side of a damp knife. or place a piece of plastic wrap over the damp clay and smooth the clay with the knife over the plastic. It’s usually possible to pull the plastic off without having it stick. After the clay is dry you can brush on a layer or two of gesso, either the commercial product or home-made (joint compound and white glue, 3:1). The gesso dries quite hard, and then you can make it very smooth with a damp brush or sponge. The gesso is also easier to sand than the dry clay – but be sure to use a mask.

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Hayley March 9, 2011 at 10:06 am

Hi im wanting to do something like this for my art GCSE project at college. Im wanting to do a lion cub or perhaps a wolf, but seen as though we only have 10 hours to do this in, i was wondering if you could tell me whether it would be a good decsion to make and how long your sculputre of the lion cubs took you??
much appreciated xx

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Jonni March 9, 2011 at 11:28 am

Hi Hayley. I think the basic armature of the lion cub could be done in 10 hours or less. Then the paper mache or paper mache clay needs to be added, it needs to dry at least two days and probably longer, and then more clay or paper mache is added for the details. This has to dry, too. Getting any paper mache project, no matter how simple it might be, in 10 hours is almost impossible unless you have a special drying cupboard that blows hot air over it.

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Hayley March 9, 2011 at 11:42 am

thank you so much for replying, its not often you acctually get people that reply quickly and want to help other people as much as you do. ahh well im sure Im sure I ‘ll think of summit else but thanks anyway :) xx

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Jonni March 11, 2011 at 8:51 am

Lovell sent in these comments by email:

> I did a workshop for little kids, aged 5-12. They made basic armature,
> thin wire tissue paper and masking tape, -birds, mermaids, horses,
> even a row of flowers- that they covered in your fab mix and shaped
> brautifully, beyond my expectations. They were dry enough by the end
> of the 3hour workshop to handle and take home.(our wonderful African
> sun)
> I’m sorry I didn’t take photos because they were quite dellightful.
> They spent much of the time smoothing their sculptures and adding
> loads of details, fish scales. hair, bugs on flowers…they found it
> so easy and rewarding to work with.
>
> I think if Hayley has 10 hours, especially if it’s two sessions with a
> night between she could do something fantastic?
>
> Thank you for all your generosity with your information, i have found
> all the South African equivalents and had great fun with the mix.

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Ann March 10, 2011 at 9:49 pm

Found your site while searching for some help to conduct a papier mache project for my small art class. You have been very helpful in getting me excited about the possibilities and overcoming my fear in attempting this project. One question. How do you know when to add aluminum foil to your form or when to simply use paper and masking tape with no foil? Thanks for your time.

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Jonni March 11, 2011 at 8:17 am

Hi Ann. I use aluminum foil in small bits where it’s really hard to get crumpled paper to behave. I also use it on very thin areas, like horse legs, because it adds some support when firmly crumpled around a wire armature. But you don’t really have to use it at all, if you don’t want to.

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Sue Brown March 16, 2011 at 1:53 pm

Love your work, and really appreciate you sharing so much info. I will be teaching a group of kids ranging from ages 6 to 12 this summer. The sessions allow for about 4 hours of work time, total, broken down to an hour a day. Papier-mâché is my medium of choice, but the subject for my week is Art and Technology. The kids will be doing animation with another guy that week, also. The technique can involve technology, but so can the subject. I was encouraged to think in terms of space ships or submarines, but I can’t give up thoughts of PM and PM Clay. Any advice would be appreciated. I’m also thinking little bird-house sized houses might be interesting. Just can’t get my head around the technology thing!

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Jonni March 16, 2011 at 3:39 pm

Does the paper mache project need to fit in with the animation project? If not, PM is a good choice. Paper mache is based on a type of technology – just not electronic technology. It involves huge paper making machinery, flour mills, etc. And it has a very interesting history, from the soldier’s helmets made in China to the furniture made in France, and all the cool things your kids will be making themselves. I think it’s technology at it’s most basic (and most satisfying) level. Of course, a robotic giraffe or something would be pretty cool…

One thing, though, if you’re working with very young kids – before using the paper mache clay recipe, be sure to read the labels on all the product ingredients. Some of the products in the clay were intended for the construction industry, and need to be handled with care. Laminated paper strips and paste are a better choice if your kinds might be inclined to eat the clay or smear it on themselves.

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Sue Brown March 16, 2011 at 7:36 pm

Wow! Thank you so much for your prompt reply! Ironically, as I was posting this, I got a call asking me if I would switch to another week in which the theme is “The Masters”. I’m toying with the idea of choosing James Audobon as my ” master” , because I am envisioning really cool PM bird sculptures, using some of your techniques! Thanks so much for your thoughts and your time!

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Lisette Smid March 18, 2011 at 11:10 am

Hi Jonni,

I just came upon your web site as I was searching the net for ideas for making a paper mache tree. I’m brainstorming ideas for a large free standing tree for my daughter’s graduation banquet. It will probably have to be made in several parts and put together on site. I would like it to look quite real with lots of spread out branches. It will likely need a heavy base to keep it upright. I have visions of it being a magical, silvery white and gray with lots of small white lights intertwined. I’m just looking for any advice you could give me in regards to materials I could use, if the paper mache clay would be a good idea, or perhaps you know of anyone else who’s done a project like this. I’m quite excited about this endeaver and how it will turn out.

sincerely,
Lisette

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Jonni March 18, 2011 at 11:25 am

Lisette, several readers have sent in photos of trees made with paper mache. To find them, use the search bar at the top of the page. The search result links will take you to the top of the pages, so you’ll probably have to scroll down to find them, but it’s worth the trouble. Some of the trees have been quite remarkable.

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Christina Evans April 22, 2011 at 9:51 am

This was a very thoughtful video!

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Harry June 22, 2011 at 1:13 pm

Came across your YouTube page. Very helpful. I am thinking about doing a few projects. What about fiberglass for an outward coating to make them waterproof for outdoors?

Harry

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Jonni June 22, 2011 at 3:51 pm

Fiberglass would definitely make a sculpture waterproof. I’m not sure how it holds up under strong UV light, but it must do OK because they make boats out of it. (I once worked at a factory that made fiberglass boats – but not in the fiberglass building. We made good boats, or so I’m told.) For those who might not be familiar with the material, it is imperative that you have adequate ventilation when working with fiberglass. Brain cells are important, after all.

Harry, if you do make a sculpture and use some fiberglass as the outer layer, please let us know how it turns out. Photos would be nice, too, of course…

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Beerwah Books and Bits August 20, 2011 at 1:17 pm

Wow am totally in awe. Great work great book ! as we are into recycling everything [we sell preloved books and other items ] I make re purposed envelopes gift tags and bags from glossy magazines as only 20% of these are recycled You are such an inspiration Linda

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Jen Robinson November 21, 2011 at 1:40 pm

Hi Jonni,

I came across your site recently and I think it is just fabulous! I am having a circus themed party for my daughter’s 3rd birthday and I think it would be awesome to have an elephant like the one you created!! I would really like to attempt to make it, but I must admit I am a bit intimated. How long does it take to make the indian elephant? Is it reasonable to think a first-timer like myself could make it? Thanks.

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Jonni November 21, 2011 at 2:49 pm

Hi Jen. A number of people have made elephants using the basic instructions I gave in the video, and they’re all coming out really well. A few people have even made full-sized adult elephants, for theater productions and weddings, and they’re great. No prior experience needed. Do give yourself enough time, though. I think it took me about two weeks from start to finish. If I used the paper mache clay recipe instead of paper strips and paste it probably wouldn’t have taken quite that long.

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Christina December 2, 2011 at 5:00 pm

I am thrilled to find your website through Pinterest today. I volunteer at a zoo and we make paper mache items for animal enrichment. We use the flour / water mix and newspaper with soy ink so that anything that is ingested is non-toxic. We’re always looking for new ideas, new shapes and new possibilities, your site is full of them. I am going to truly enjoy sharing your site with my zoo friends.

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Carole Wilson December 2, 2011 at 7:13 pm

Hi Jonni,

I just received your book and it’s fabulous! The instructions are clear and the photos quite helpful. One of the features I especially appreciate is you highlighted the supplies needed. As a beginner I’m also grateful that you explained why you use certain supplies and the troubleshooting tips.

After the holidays I hope to start the projects in your book. Thank you for taking the time to share your talents and experience in this hands-on format. (The website is informative and extremely useful, but I love books.)

Great book!
Carole

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Jonni December 3, 2011 at 8:40 am

Gosh – thanks Carole.

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boky December 6, 2011 at 4:04 am

Hi.
I am an art teacher and I hope you can help me with the advice. We are making a Christmas school play and we need one big snow ball with the holes for legs, arms and head. Do you have any suggestion how we could make this and what to put as a final layer in order to be a bit shinny?
Thank you.

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Jonni December 6, 2011 at 5:31 pm

Hi Boky. You might be able to use a big exercise ball and cover it with paper mache. You’d need to leave a very large hole open at the bottom so the actor could get in and out of it. You can use an acrylic varnish in either matt or gloss to get the finish you’re looking for.

Good luck. I hope you’ll show us your snowman when it’s done.

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Aryea December 12, 2011 at 9:06 pm

Hello Jonni,
I am an artist living on the Gulf Coast of Alabama who used to work on building Mardi Gras floats. You may not be aware of it but Alabama, specifically Mobile, was the birthplace of Mardi Gras. (Sorry, New Orleans. Better luck next time.) The floats in Mobile parades tend to be larger than those used in New Orleans, and change radically each year according to the theme of the parade. This means a constant flow of large papier mache sculptures to attach to the float. I thought that the way we built them would be of interest to the folks here. First we start with a simple wooden or PVC pipe armature. Over this we build up the shape of the sculpture with torn strips of corrugated cardboard, saturated with a latex water-based contact adhesive. (I don’t remember the brand name right offhand, but it’s a pale green in colour and it might have been 3-M.) We would coat each side of the cardboard and allow it to dry before tearing it into strips or sections. One nice thing about this adhesive is that it’s waterproof. (You can use the old-fashioned brown contact adhesive, but it requires solvent clean up, takes longer to dry and the fumes are toxic.) Don’t use the cardboard from waxed cartons as it won’t work. Thin single-ply corrugated is better than double-corrugated or double-layer as it’s easier to shape. Once the general shape is achieved we would smooth out the surface with torn sections of thin chipboard also coated on either side with contact adhesive. The best type of chipboard to use for this is the flimsy, cheap stuff. The nice thing about using the contact adhesive is that there is no drying time in the sculpture itself. Once you apply the dry cardboard and chipboard to the surfaces, they’re ready to go. Over this we would apply a layer of torn white butcher paper that we would adhere with either wallpaper paster or wheat paste. This is to give that surface a final smoothing and a surface for painting, and paint doesn’t stick to contact adhesive very well. For paint we used ordinary exterior-grade latex that we would custom tint with powdered pigments. These sculptures were very strong and durable. After the parade we would remove the sculpture and store it so it could be reworked next year. Some of the pieces we were using were many years old and were still going strong. I’ve seen these sculptures come through storms with flying colours. You can use this method to make very large sculptures, or smaller ones. I’ve also made smaller ones and covered them with layers of blended papier mache that I made from recipes I found on the Internet. (Sorry, I didn’t know about your site back then.) I used to have a life-sized classic Grecian-style statue in my garden made this way, covered in my own blend of artificial stone. I made this from paper pulp mixed with cement and silica powder (also called flowers of silica). Silica powder is basically an extremely finely ground sand used mostly in iron smelting. This mixture makes a very nice “stone” facing that I finished to look like marble. After sealing it with a standard concrete sealer (and regular applications thereof as needed) it stood for 5 years without any cracking or deterioration, internally or externally. Well that’s about all. If anyone has any questions, drop me a line.

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Tricia Gerlach January 10, 2012 at 11:53 am

I have look through your website and have been very impressed. I want to have students make masks of their faces and then decorate them so I can get a feel for who my students are. I will then hang them around the room for display the rest of the year. I have read some of your pages and the masks you creates you make a mold…could I use the student’s faces as the mold with the paper mache clay? I was going to do it the old fashion way and think the clay will work better? If so, how long would you suggest for dry time or is there a better way to dry the masks than just air dry?

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Jonni January 10, 2012 at 12:21 pm

Hi Tricia. You can’t use any sort of paper mache to make a mask directly on a person’s face. All paper mache takes at least 24 hours to dry, and often takes longer. Depending on the age of your students and how much time and supervision is available, you might want to look into the alginate mold-making material if you want the masks to be exact duplicates of the students’ faces. Or you could just use ordinary cheap mask forms and let the students use their creativity to make the masks reflect their own characters.

Also, the use of the clay for masks depends on the age of the kids. For really young kids, I recommend ordinary paper strips and paste, or use the paper mache clay recipe and leave out the linseed oil. All paper mache dries faster in front of a fan. You might want to check out this tutorial written by one of our readers about making a simple mask form.

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Tricia Gerlach January 10, 2012 at 1:04 pm

Thank you so much for the feed back. I work with high school students with close supervision. I just want to clarify real quick. Cannot mache onto their actual faces, so I could have them make a model of their face first (with tape and paper) and then they can mache over that. Allow at least 24 hours to dry.

Did I hit it all? I will watch the video tonight…as it is blocked at school.

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Jonni January 10, 2012 at 3:04 pm

Yes, that’s sounds just right. I hope they have fun and make some fabulous masks.

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Shraddha January 20, 2012 at 2:53 am

Hi Jonni,

You are n amazing artist! I came by your website while i was looking out for some information on paper mache.. Everything out here is so useful. I love making handmade articles n gifts. I do paper quilling and origami. Now your tutorials will surely help me take up a new project. Thanks and keep posting.

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carol January 26, 2012 at 6:35 pm

i hope you got my last comment, but if you did not, i must say i have thought about you on many occasions. i look at your paintings and pen and ink drawings everyday and wonder about you. i also have that paper mache mirror that you and your daughter did for me. i am so happy to have found you…please write me so we can connect. i am so very proud of what you have done…creatively. i especially love the weener dog i see on the top of this page.

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Jonni January 26, 2012 at 8:16 pm

Hi Carol. Your first comment got lost in the ether, but this one came through. It’s good to hear from you, (but I can’t remember that mirror. Is it possible that I’m getting old?) You can find my contact info here.

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