Jonni’s Sculptures
The images below show you some of my recent paper mache and paper mache clay sculptures. Please contact me if you have any questions about these sculptures.
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I was wondering, today as it pours rain for the third day in a row, have any of you ever tried making an armature as you normally do, but instead of using clay, using vinyl concrete(not sure if vinyl would be the right kind, buts its very smooth)?
Ive tried using pretty much every kind of varnish and magic to make my sculptures weather proof, but eventually they always start to delaminate. Would a layer of sculpted concrete do the job? would it even matter if the paper under it rotted away then?
Nikki made us a video showing how she makes her hollow concrete sculptures. You can see it here. Now that you’ve reminded me of it, I have to go back and look at it again. It was really nice of her to make the video for us. I agree that there’s always a chance that a paper-based sculpture will fail outside, no matter how hard you try to coat it with plastic or other waterproofing techniques. I know some people get good results, but the sun cracks plastic films, and tiny fungi and other living things do love to eat paper. I’m moving in the direction of using concrete outside, myself. My dad has been making concrete yard art for years, and it just seems more reasonable than making outside sculptures with paper mache.
A few days ago I found this great tutorial about making aquarium backgrounds with QuikWall cement over carved foam. The technique could work just as well for bigger outdoor sculptures. And my dad found this video, about concrete leaves, that gives a recipe for making really strong concrete using an acrylic fortifier, which would work well in Nikki’s wire mesh sculptures. All good stuff to think about.
Hi Jonni and everyone. I love this site and all the great art. Jonni this site and your clays have got my creative juices flowing. I made these letters for work. they are about 16″ tall. First I made a cardboard letter then spread on the clay. Then sanded and sanded and sanded some more.
That stuff is hard. I could have worked a ton more on them but I had to end it sometime.
Great stuff, keep up that great work Jonni!!!
thanks Bob
very nice, and I love the finish as well as the colors. They look professionally done.
thanks!! probably 30 some hours to make…most of it sanding.
The letters look great, Bob. I can see how much work you put into them, but it was worth it.
Anyone on here ever try mixing color with PVA glue for pigment? If so, how well does it work, and how much paint do you need to add (ratio) to get good color?
Some people use acrylic paint over wet PVA glue to get a crackled effect – I wonder if that might happen if you include the pigment in the glue? What is it, exactly, that you’re trying to achieve with this combo, as opposed to using acrylics?
Im not sure
, well actually I feel like most of my painting looks so topical. I was wondering if there was a way to add a little more depth, so it doesnt look like I just painted the object, instead it was made of that particular color. Im all over the place when it comes to finishing (painting) my projects, so I’m kinda reaching. I’ve even considered getting an airbrush, see if that helps.
When I began painting 30 years ago, I took an oil painting class. My teacher had us paint watermelon and grapes. I will never forget when he told me, “never pick up the same color twice.” Of course, the watermelon was red, but it was anything but flat. I went on to paint in watercolors (now Jonni has me doing acrylics!). I just finished painting a paper mache koi, and the orange had three different oranges, yellow, and red. (There’s a photo of it somewhere on this site; I can’t find it so I’ll attach it here.) I think variety of color and contrast might help. I’m not sure.
Good luck. And if you get an airbrush, it may take over your life. And I’d be jealous.
I envy you the time to paint. but I have to say what a beautiful fish!
I do add color to all sorts of mediums. I would give the PVA a color and give it a try!
An air brush is so enticing.
Thanks for the replies, I do ( especially with large projects) tend to cover large areas with one color, more like a house than art. Ive got to paint a large piece, most of which is a large long duster, and ive got to make it look like leather. The challenge for me is just that, to not make it look like one big brown coat, but instead a warn, well used, leather duster. I will definitely mess a bunch of shades of brown, Ill post what I end up with
, thanks again.
Mike, have you tried the Golden Acrylic Glazing Liquid? I use it all the time, because it really helps add a lot of depth to a painting, without going to too much work. If you add Burnt Umber to the glazing liquid, brush it over some lighter brown and then rub it off, it will leave the dark in the deeper places and it can really help to make a nice leathery look.
Yes, I agree with Jonni. In her book she wrote she uses Golden Acrylic Glazing Liquid. Of course when I went to the store, I looked for a Glazing Liquid that was gold in color. Three visits later I saw the name brand Golden – duh! Her glazing technique suggestions made a huge difference in the penguins I painted – large areas of black. They were 18″ tall. It surprised me how many people commented on it. Good luck.
Cardboard similar to what Jonni does (assuming youre talking about the dragon?) Ill post a pic of it before I started putting muscle on. It’s only the head, but you’ll get the idea.
Thanks btw for the positive comment.
youre welcome to look at my FB page and see some of my projects if Jonni doesnt mind me putting it on here. Ive taken pictures of most of my recent stuff in stages. But I warn you, Im a sloppy artist
https://www.facebook.com/LifeSizeMache
Hi Mike. I certainly don’t mind people putting a link to their own site in the comment section – that’s a great way to spread the word. By the way, is that alginate that you’re using on your son’s face on your Facebook page? If it is, would you be interested in writing a guest post for us? Lots of people ask me if they can use the paper mache clay to make a face mold, and, naturally, I say no. But I don’t have the experience with alginate or the skin-safe silicone to write up instructions for them. Would you be interested in doing that?
Of course. In fact Ill be doing a female face (/cough, my daughter) right after finals, Ill take pictures for a step by step of what I’m doing. I plan on using her face to get a positive plaster( from the alginate negative) that I can pull positive mache copies from, we’ll see how successful Ill be at getting two positives with out a negative mold in between
.
Do I post it the same way as regular photos on this site? not sure how that works.
Thanks for the interest btw.
Mike
Great! – For guest posts, you can send me your post by email, along with images as attachments. Then I can post your article on it’s own page, and it will go out to all my subscribers. Be sure you put “paper mache” in the subject line, so your article doesn’t get lost among the hundreds of unsolicited emails I delete every day. I look forward to seeing how your technique works!
Ill be starting a project soon that will be my first attempt to take a piece of furniture, in this case a small night stand, and “attempt” to recreate it out of mache with the original piece as an armature.
If you like i could post it as well. Of course I wont post it if it blows up in my face
This is my giraffe safari decor. my best project yet. Lisa
Oops – still didn’t work. Check this comment that I wrote for another person who was having the same problem – it might help.
This is my giraffe head sculpture I just finished.
Hi Lisa. The image didn’t come through. That usually happens if the file size is too big. Please edit the photo and try again – I’ve seen your giraffe, and I know it’s lovely. Others will want to see it too.
I had been worrying about how you would get this big guy out in the world. Let us know how it goes.
Good morning. Id thought Id put these two on, my male and female Giraffes that I finished some time ago after they sat unpainted for over two years. (I have a severe phobia of painting my projects)
They’re lovely, including the way they’re painted. Do you have a new project planned?
Im working on a life size piece now. It’s a Steampunk-ish project that I’ve wanted to do for some time. I can post a pic of it if you like, although its not done. Like the Draugr Ive got pics from armature on up. I need to learn to photograph a little better though. My studio is in a dark (supposedly haunted) dungeonesque space located in the basement of a historical building in Montana. Its so dark I have to use an LED headlamp, I feel like a miner when im working on a project. needless to say, i cant seem to get my photos to turn out. Jonni, you should consider doing a “how to photograph” mache article
, yours always seem to turnout.
Mike
Sorry for the poor pic quality, this room is very dark. The guy on the left is the project I’m focusing on now. I have a few others that Im doing as well, more of a “while the main project dries” sort of thing. You cant see it from this angle but he has dozens of gears filling the back of his head, and will have a tool belt with various Steampunk items in it. He’ll also have a large analog clock in his chest with roman numerals instead of numbers. He’ll also have a large back pack full of gauges and tubing to lend to the Steampunk look. I’m a bit of a China Tom Miéville fan, so am hoping to capture the essence of his work in this piece.
Haha, sorry Jonni, I meant to include a pic with that last post. I dont think i did.
Mike, if the image is too big, the system won’t accept it. Did you edit the photo to make it a low-resolution image?
Sorry about that, I lowered it to 133kb, lets see if it works this time
Success! Boy, you are working in a dungeon. I wonder what kind of figures you’d create if you had more light. And a window? It’s amazing what you’ve been able to accomplish in that environment, but now I’m starting to worry about you…
Haha Jonni, Yeah sometimes I feel like the Mole Character from Toads wild ride.
This is literally how I have to work. Its fun though, the ambiance is a little draconian, but I have room to make pretty much anything my imagination can come up with. Just need to figure the light issue out lol.
WOW! That creature is looking FINE! You might wanna get some flood lights? That’s what we had in our drawing studio back in college. Gosh, I miss those days sometimes. Your work is just wonderful…these figures re turning out pretty awesomelicious! I wish I could work on that scale but I don’t have a place do display nor store my monsters so I keep them small
Thanks! Ive been looking at flood lights at the local places. trying to decide between florescent and normal set ups that don’t cost too much. Im in the middle of studying for finals now, so it might be a few weeks before I can do much about it. Ill keep you posted though : )
Gorgeous!!!! I am new to this and wondering what you used to make the model….before covering in the paper mache?
Hi Jonni-
I emailed you some time ago about armature ideas for a large project I wanted to do. I thought I’d post a picture of it now that its almost done. The PVC worked well, although I definitely need to rethink how its attached to the pedestal next time, it moves more than Id like. It stands just over 7 feet. Im not sure of its weight, but its not too bad.
Wow – it’s almost disturbingly realistic. It came out really well. Where will he be displayed? Is it part of a permanent display?
Thanks Jonni. I wish, but no. Ive been trying to capture something large in motion, human form with intent (it was the intent that I wanted to capture). The problem is, Im not all that good with the human face, so I made instead a skull with the plans of a simple skeleton, to see if i could capture it… and it got a little out of hand. It ended up being a Draugr (A baddie from Norse Mythology) . I Honestly dont think I can get him out of my studio in one piece, which is too bad because I like how it turned out. I have a pic, not as good due to poor photo quality, of his base that I can post. Its not painted yet, but the ground complete with skulls is all Mache.
Thanks for posting it, Ive been haunting your blog, soaking up tidbits of information for a few years now. I think I posted a photo of a life size of my daughter a couple years ago, but havent taken part in this awesome site you’ve created since.
Mike
Wow, this is an AMAZING warrior! He stands 7 feet tall? It is a wonderful and exciting piece that just stands out in any room. Bravo, for taking on such a large scale piece and challenging yourself with such a marvelous creation. I never challenge myself like this because I’m too limited on space. I really like your design for this piece and the various textures, color tones and effects on the warrior. Thank you for sharing this with everyone here because it shows your talents, gifts and helps everyone with the encouragement to create. Keep making more, looking forward to seeing more of your AWESOME work!!! Again, BRAVO
Thanks JamieStarr, you’re too kind. I only felt compeled to put something on because of all the fantastic ideas and pieces I’ve been seeing on this site. It’s kind of turned into my bible for Paper mache.
I get very excited to see everyone share and become inspired! I was kinda lazy and skeptical about taking on paper mache because I hated using strips and glue. Thanks to Jonni I have a new way of creating things and the sky is the limit! I need to buy her book. This is a wonderful forum to share and learn new things and far better than some of the stuff I could have learned in college. Please keep on sharing and dreaming up new ideas..
Hi Jonni, Your paper mache is truly inspiring! I would like to make a paper mache lion mask for my son’s school play, but I don’t have a face form to build from. We also don’t have anywhere even remotely close to buy one. Can you suggest an alternative, or how to make one? I thought about using a plastic ‘lone rider’ type mask on a balloon, but I am not sure if sculpy would attach to it, and I wouldn’t be able to use tinfoil to create shape because I think it would pop the balloon. Any suggestions would be very helpful! Thanks in advance!!
Tanya, if you look at my mask book on Amazon.com, and click on the Look Inside feature, I think you can see my method of making a mask form with aluminum foil, duct tape and plaster cloth. You might need to sign in to Amazon to see that part of the book. Some people use gummed paper tape, but I don’t know where they find it.
The Sculpey does stick to plastic mask forms, but I doubt it would stick to a rubber balloon. You might take a look at the wet paper armature I used to make my sort-of-Einstein mask. If it’s tamped down so it’s quite dense, and then covered with plastic, you could probably use your Sculpey over it. It wouldn’t be an exact match for your son’s face, but if you make sure it’s big enough, it may work.
Be sure to let us see the lion when it’s done. This sounds like a challenging project.
Well, HELLO!
I start with a good reference point image. I find a frontal, side view and top/bottom. I sketch them out and then start planning out the bulk concept. If it’s for a sculpture I tend to use foil paper, masking tape and wire to create a skeleton frame. I used foil paper to create the bulk for King Kong and then wrapped that on his wire frame. The masking tape just attached the foil paper and secured it. Foil creates bulk that you can manipulate and form with your hands. It also makes things light weight. If you are making a mask I would suggest Jonni’s tutorials. The balloon idea sounds great. You can also use the foil paper idea and the add some Crayola Magic stuff to create the details. I used Crayola Magic to create the lips and face details on Kong’s face. The teeth were made from Aves Apoxy sculpt putty because you need a harder element so the teeth won’t break…
That is awesome. what type of armature did you use, and do you have any idea what it weighs finished? I always have a hard time with colors for places like the “gums” inside the mouth, and it looks like you nailed it. They even look wet. Kudos!
Geez,
thanks for writing. I like to use Aves Apoxy sculpt for teeth since it is something that will self harden and you can insert into the clay. The tongue can be made of paper pulp clay or Jonni’s new soft clay. I tend to paint the mouth on my monsters in the following manner:
I start by painting the inside of the mouth in the darkest color I need…dark purplish red with brown and black mixed in. I get the ENTIRE mouth painted along with the teeth and tongue in this color. I let that dry and then I dry brush my slightly lighter shades in on top of one another. The tongue and gums are only lighter shades from one another. I tend to paint the teeth in an off white color because monsters have no toothpaste. I like to show a variety of tartar, yellowing and decay in my monster teeth. I will use this on my latest monster that I am making at the moment. The following image is a Cyclopes lamp I made out of a boring lamp I had.
The teeth are made out of paper and covered in Crayola Model magic for kids. They are all 3D teeth, individually sculpted and attached. I painted them in yucky colors and layered the shades on top of each other. The tongue is also crafted individually with taste bumps buds and more fleshy colors. I like to finish all my monster mouths with a glossy wet coat of Galkyd Slow Dry oil. This available online and it is used on oil paintings to seal the paint and give it that crazy wet gloss. I like to thin it down with mineral spirits because it is VERY slow drying. Galkyd generally goes on like thick maple syrup so, you have to thin it down. This will give you that wet and nasty saliva look which you can also use on open wound effects nd the glossy monster eyes.
Greetings!!! I hope youre doing well and are planning on new wonderous creations in the coming months. As requested, here is my King Kong paper mache sculpture I am Mr.Frogbutt on Youtube. Tell me what you think, the only thing that is not papermache is the creature in his hand which is made of wire and Aves Apoxey Sculpt. The female in his hand is also a figure that I found of a fairy. Thanks for your recipe because it has come in handy
Wow – what a scary creature! Is the fur on his shoulders paper mache, too? Do you have a website so we could see more of your work? This is great.
Hello Jonni,
Yes, his fur and whole body is YOUR papermache recipe! I used your recipe and the fur is papermache that was sculpted using a plastic knife to create that texture. If you have an email address I can send you more images of King Kong or Kongsy as I like to call him. He was inspired by the original 1930′s movie with a little bit of cartoon influence. I used a wood base,wire,paper,foil paper,masking tape and Model magic from Crayola for most of the basic work. Your papermache recipe created his entire body and it was superior to having to resort to paper strips. I never liked cutting strips of paper because I could never manipulate them and the results were always terrible. I am so grateful to you Jonni. I am currently working on two more nasty monsters as we speak and am using your recipe….YOU MADE THIS POSSIBLE
Nasty monsters – what fun! Be sure to let us see them when they’re done. And my contact info, by the way, is at the very top right corner of every post.
Jonni,
I think you are so wonderfully talented. I saw the elephant on Pinterest and find your lesson so valuable. Thank you for sharing your artwork and advice.
Thanks, Laura.
I teach an art class to severe and profoundly disabled adults and we have made some GREAT fish sculptures using paper mache. I will try to include a photo…
I would love to see the sculptures that your class comes up with.
I will try to upload some images. Hope you enjoy! I seems I can only upload a single image, so I am sending a “group”.
Very nice, I especially like the teeth and lips, are they painted on or did you use clay?
They are painted on. The fish are, in a sense, “collaborative”. My students build the form on a crumpled paper armature. The surface is created by layered paper using Elmer’s paste and then collaged using previously used bleedy tissue paper. This is all done exclusively by students. But I paint the faces on with acrylic paints and try to make them ‘interesting’ but not too sophisticated for the simplicity of the form. We are going to try birds next! Wish us luck! I am having trouble finding the tissue papers that bleed. Anyone out there have a suggestion where to get some?
Did I forget to say that I like your work Mike? I am challenged to think about trying something huge or at least big(ger) inspired by your giant
I am a new when it comes to paper mache and am working on a project which will ultimately be used as a door hanging. I’m wondering if I should paper mache the hanger or hook to the back of the piece, or adhere it after the project is done. Any advice?
It might depend on how heavy your finished piece will be. For my masks, I just add the hanger with a hot glue gun. That wouldn’t hold anything that’s very heavy, though.
I sell print books and with the advent of the kindle I have many of them not selling. I would love to use book pages in paper mache is this possible?
Yes, you can do that. Some artists use the book pages as part of the finished design.
Would the book pages work as part of the paper Mache clay recipe?
Maybe, but you’d need to soak the paper much longer, and probably in hotter water. Toilet paper is designed to fall apart as soon as it gets wet, and book paper isn’t. But people do use recycled paper with this recipe, and get great results. You just need to be a bit more patient.
Old phone book pages are also great in paper mache layering the traditional way. I alternate yellow and white pages to help keep approximate track of how many layers I have applied.
Great idea.
I like using phone book pages in my paper mache. It is almost easier to manage than sheets of newspaper. And then I found that I liked, especially the yellow pages, as the final finish.
I finally got a picture of a few of my paper mache alphabet letters to show the use of telephone book pages.
Carol, did you try to show us your photo? If it didn’t work, it’s probably because the file size is too big. Try editing the photos and make them smaller, so the system will let them through. I’d love to see how the letters turned out.
Hi Jonni,
I need some info into how to make a tea cup and saucer to be used on a hat brim. I am a Red Hatter and I will be attending the Red Hat Society Convention in Atlanta, GA in April. I want to construct a unique hat to be worn to the Low Tea which will be casual and also the High Tea that will be more formal. Can you give me some instruction as to how to begin? Thank you so much for sharing your wonder art. Smiles
Teresa
Hi Teresa. You could find a small bowl with the right shape for your cup, and put some paper mache over it. (Use a release, so the paper mache doesn’t stick to the bowl.) After it dries you can take it off and add the handle (cardboard curved to the right shape, and then covered with paper mache, and stuck to the cup with more paper mache.)
However, I just found a really nice tutorial that would make a much better teacup — you can find it here. If it was me, I’d follow her instructions instead of mine.
After some research I have decided that Jonni is the person I need for my next project.
If you go to BoogieDawg.com you will see it leads you to my show website.
BoogieDawg is not there yet and that’s why I need Jonni!
BoogieDawg will be literally be riding around a real upright piano while playing.
(piano on bicycle wheels)
I’m thinking of using BoogieDawg for dog charity events so I need a mask of a dog
that’s realistic.
The black n white dog you did n your video is excellent!
Birdie
Hi Birdie. What an interesting job you have! You must have fun all year.
The dog mask you mentioned is way too small for anyone to wear, but, (ahem) I wrote a book that shows you exactly how to make one yourself. No dog in the book, but the basics are there. Speaking of making things, did you create Mr. Jenkins yourself?
Hello Jonni
Can you please tell me why my gesso is cracked? I made (for the first time) with french chalk and rabbit skin glue. I think that possibly I made it to thick and not runny enough. By the way, Jonni I have ordered one of your books for Christmas (animals from clay)
I am new to this.
Thank you
Regards
Charlie
Hello,
I have been doing a Christmas tree for a benefit that helps the disable. I need paper mache people (pilgrims), an eagle with its wings spread out. I am a designer myself of life like animals, I have sent you the Truck Mutt. I really do need your help to complete my project.
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/226472_224641244218015_648138_n.jpg[/img]
What kind of help are you looking for, exactly?
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/sculptures048.JPG[/img]
Hi everyone….This is charlie my first paper sculpture…
Your FIRST one??? WOW! Amazing girl!!! That is wonderful!!!… Are you sure there isn’t a real person in there??? lol
Hi Jonni,
My roommate and I have been planning on making some sculptures, and we’ve been using your website and videos for help, so thanks so much for that! I love all the cool sculptures you’ve made!
I have some questions though… For your Pothead, you used a wet clay form to layer the paper mache over and then you cut the paper mache off. I was thinking of using this same technique, but since I am not planning on shipping it anywhere, can I just leave the clay underneath? I don’t need to cut the paper mache off unless I want it hollow right? And if I leave it on the clay, would I need to put a wax layer in between the two?
Also are the finished products waterproof? I really wanted to make a garden sculpture of a dragon and I wasn’t sure….Get back to me when you have the chance! Thanks, Ellen
The finished paper mache is not waterproof, but some people can get them to last a year or more by using waterproofing products on them, like deck sealer and spar varnish. I usually suggest that if you want to go to all the work of making an outdoor sculpture, it would be best to use concrete instead.
I suppose you could leave the clay inside paper mache, but there will end up being problems, I think. If you used modeling clay, the oil in the clay would eventually migrate out to the outside of the sculpture, and ruin your finish (I learned that the hard way). If you use water-based clay, the water could eventually seep into the paper and cause it to mold, the clay itself could mold, or the clay could dry out, shrink and crack, and end up rattling around inside the head. I wouldn’t recommend leaving it in there. But you can try it and see what happens.
Thank you so much for all of the info and your fast reply! With all the information you gave me I realized I needed to change the materials that I will be working with. I am now researching on making a concrete sculpture instead for my garden piece. Still in the research phase I guess… But I am already coming up with ideas for making some hopefully cool looking paper mache clay sculptures too, so I’m excited- Thanks again for your help!
Great! There are some good books available about using foam for the basis of a concrete sculpture, which makes them much lighter and avoids the need for a mold. They might have one of them at your local library.
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