Project Difficulty Level: Easy to Challenging

Paper Mache Piggy Bank
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Piggy banks can be made with as much detail, or as little, as you like. For that reason, a piggy bank can be a good project for the beginning paper mache sculptor, and just as challenging for the advanced student. To see what I mean, take a look at the piggy banks over at wikipedia.org.
I decided to use a mini pig photo as the starting place for my piggy bank, but I simplified it a lot. And I did very little painting on the final bank, so the project was fairly easy. I was working towards a fake antique look, so the paper and paste show through the final coat.
Total cost: less than $1, since I already had some paint and verathane on hand. Photos of the project after the jump.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank Step 1
Step 1:
I start the project with an empty salt container for the body, and four equal-sized scrunched-up paper legs. Some people try to make piggy banks and other simple paper mache projects using balloons for the inner form, but I think balloons are much too difficult to handle. The salt container in this project adds strength to the finished bank, so only a few layers of newsprint and paste are needed. (If you want your bank to be bigger so you can save more coins, you could use an oatmeal box, instead).

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 2
Step 2:
The legs are taped to the bottom of the salt container with plenty of masking tape.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 3
Step 3:
I make sure the pig can stand up straight without wobbling too much, and then I start to add the padding. Here you can see I added more paper to piggy’s tail end, and I added small bits of paper to the back of her legs so they will have more piggy shape. No animal has absolutely straight legs.
Real pigs actually have very thin and dainty legs, but I don’t think thin paper legs would hold up several pounds of quarters, so I’ve fattened up my piggy’s legs, and simplified their shape. I do, however, keep looking at the photo of the mini pig that I found online, even though I know the final piggy bank will not look exactly like a real pig.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 4
Step 4:
I add more padding to round out the legs and give piggy some elbows and hips. I also add the head. A baby pig’s head is as tall and wide as her body, with a very short neck. I’ll be doing a lot of pushing and prodding and taping to make the inner form the way I want it, before I add the first piece of newsprint and paste.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 5
Step 5:
I added the snout, ears, and tail. I also taped the feet to a piece of cardboard, which will be removed as soon as the first layer of paper mache has dried and hardened. This step was taken to help make sure the bank will sit level when it’s completed.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 6
Step 6:
The first layer of newsprint strips have been attached with a simple flour and water paste. Any low spots have been leveled out with extra paper, and piggy is then left to dry out completely before the second layer of paper is added.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 7
Step 7:
For the second layer I used brown paper, like the type used for brown paper bags. The paper is stiffer than newsprint, so I take care to make sure to use smaller pieces of torn paper, and smooth it down carefully. In this photo most of the second layer has dried, and I’m finishing up around the ears and feet.I also cut a piece of light cardboard to add to the snout to give it more definition. The cardboard will be completely covered with a layer of brown paper.

Paper Mache Piggy Bank, Step 8
Step 8:
After the brown paper layer is completely dry, I sand it to smooth off all the rough edges, and use black paint for the random spots and piggy’s eyes. When the paint is dry, I use a wash of white paint, diluted with some latex glaze, to lighten the black spots a bit. I add the glaze a small bit at a time, and then rub most of it off with a paper towel. When the glaze is dry, I add a final coat of water-based verathane. Both the glaze and verathane were left over from other projects, so I didn’t buy anything for this project. (Whenever possible, I buy my “art supplies” at a hardware store. A tiny bottle of varnish from an art store would probably cost more than my quart of verathane. Since I have a limited income, I wouldn’t be able to play around much with art projects if I didn’t count my pennies.)

Completed Paper Mache Piggy Bank
The finished piggy bank:
Piggy is now ready to start collecting pennies and quarters. This bank will eventually be given to my grandson, but he’s only 18 months old now, so he can’t have the bank yet (he would eat the quarters).

What a fun idea…not just for my grandkids but for me too…piggy banks are endless they can be anything from a house to a pig…loved this how to…thanks.
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Connie, you are so right – you can make a “piggy” bank look like anything you want. I’ve been thinking about making an English bulldog bank, myself – a bulldog would do a good job of guarding my quarters.
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I found your tutorial very very helpful when I made piggy banks for my 2 and 4 year-old nephews this Christmas! I thought I might share the results with you. It’s been ten years since I attempted paper mache, and I definitely enjoyed the process! Thanks for your help.
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Sarah, I love your piggy banks! You found a true “piggy pink” to paint them, and they look lovely. I’m glad you found my tutorial useful – and congratulations for the great results. I’m sure your nephews love them.
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I’d like to say thank’s for making this piggy bank instructions really easy I’m in the middle of making my first ever paper mache piggy bank. I wanted to ask if you used the joint compound or not?.
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Hi Sharon,
I’m glad your having fun with your piggy bank project.
I don’t think I used the joint compound on this guy, just because it happened to come out fairly smooth without it. I do use the joint compound after the first layer of paper mache whenever I want an area to be smoother, but this time I didn’t need to.
I really like using crumpled paper and masking tape for my forms because it helps make the final sculpture stronger. But sometimes the bumps in the crumpled paper show through if I don’t use enough masking tape. Some people like the bumps, but I like my sculptures smoother than that – and the joint compound has been a real help.
I hope your project turns out well. Enjoy.
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Hi Jonni,
I have put the brown paper on my piggy bank, but i’m not sure were to buy the latex glaze from. Is there any thing else i could use to lighten the black spots on piggy, i want it to look like yours.
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Hi Sharon,
I just happened to have a quart of glaze left over from a project I did last year. You get it at a regular paint store. It’s used by people who do rag-rolling and other fancy painting styles on their walls.
But I wouldn’t have bought some special for my piggy –
I think you could get the same effect by diluting some white acrylic paint with a whole lot of water, brush it on a very small spot (to test it) and then wipe most of it off again. You’d have to work fast because the acrylic paint dries so quickly.
You might want to paint a few black spots on a scrap piece of cardboard and test it there.
I hope this helps. If anyone else has any ideas, please let us know.
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Hi Jonni,
I think i’ll try using the white acrylic paint over the black spots.
Thanks for your sugggestion is there a way of uploading a photo on this website, then i could show my finished piggy bank.
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Hi Sharon,
I would love to see your finished project. Thanks for suggesting it. To make that possible, I just now added an “add images” function to the comment area.
To use it, you will need to have your photo hosted somewhere, like Flickr.com, photobucket.com, etc. I think the accounts are free. Then you will just copy the photo’s URL into the text box that pops up when you hit the add images link below the comment box. It will add a short line of code that includes your image URL, and you’ll see the image after the comment has been approved.
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What a wonderful bank! I can’t wait to try it myself, but one thing seems to be missing – I can’t find anywhere in the instructions where you mention how you get the coins in and out of the bank. Just saw a slot out of the top at the end? Does the bank have to be destroyed to get the money back out, or did you make the slot big enough to (with patience) shake the coins through?
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Jonni Reply:
March 3rd, 2009 at 1:38 am
Hi Michi. I did leave out a hole (and cork) for getting the money out easily. I remember the best part of my own piggy bank, lots of years ago, was the fun of sneaking the pennies out by shaking the bank upside down. Now I’m sure people don’t even bother to save pennies, so you can see how long ago that was!
If you want to be able to remove your quarters easily, just find a nice-sized cork and then cut a hole in the piggy’s belly so the cork will fit. But remember that the quarters probably won’t be saved for very long if it’s easy to get them out.
Enjoy!
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I love your piggy!! So cute and practical. I think I will have me 10 junior high art students try this out in a week or so. Can you give me an idea how long a project this would be (in hours)? I will make one myself first but would like to know before if possible. Thank your for all of the lovely ideas Jonni!
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Jonni Reply:
April 9th, 2009 at 3:30 am
Hi Joanie. If you use uncooked flour and water paste (which my personal experiments tell me is the strongest), and only put on two layers of paper mache over a well-taped form, it should go pretty fast. Also, if you use the joint compound for smoothing things out instead of adding more layers of paper, that makes things go faster, too. The first hour should give you the paper and tape underlying form, two more separate hours for two layers and the ears and nose details, and the last hour to sand and paint. But I’m just guessing – I’ve never timed myself on that particular project.
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This has a great folk art quality to it. Very nice.
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years ago I made my brother a paper mache piggy bank that he still has (40 years later) — I used the financial pages (stock report) of the newspaper for the final layers to keep the $ theme.
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Jonni Reply:
May 29th, 2009 at 11:36 pm
Using the financial pages was a great idea! I’ll bet the numbers on the piggy bank have changed a lot in the last 40 years.
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Congrats on having your project showcased on One Pretty Thing! I love the rustic quality of your piggy bank, will definitely be making one!
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I absolutely love your sculptures! I’ve been planning on making a piggy bank for my son, but hadn’t thought of paper mache. Thanks for the inspiration. I think I’ll give it shot.
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Great tip about shopping for art supplies at hardware stores! I’ve always shopped at the local Ace for essentials like, linseed oil, turps, brushes, and even masking tape is cheaper there than the local AC Moore. I have also gotten real lucky finding really cheap paint, when they have not mixed colors correctly, of course you have to pay attention to what kind of paint it is for, but most times, can be used for my art projects.
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you are an incredible artist and i’m inspired so much by your work, i’d love to see more masks
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Jonni Reply:
August 4th, 2009 at 3:25 am
Thanks Emma. I have been thinking about making more masks. A lion would be nice for my wall. Keep checking back.
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Hi Jonni,
What a cute little piggy this is.I tried it myself it turned out pretty well. But the legs of my piggy (scrunched up paper) dont seem to be solid enough though i taped it tight enough .It seemed quite soild when i made it but after layering it ,if i press it i anm able to do so ….is this normal or do you think i’ve missing on something?
thanks.
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Jonni Reply:
September 3rd, 2009 at 2:37 pm
Hi Payal. Your piggy’s legs may be less solid than you want for one of two reasons:
1. The paper mache on the legs may not be completely dry.
2. You may need to put on one or two more layers of paper mache.
I hope this helps. Can we see the piggy when it’s done?
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Payal Reply:
September 4th, 2009 at 3:05 am
Hi Jonni,
thanks for your suggestions,I think the second reason maybe true in my case.Can i ask you how many layers should any put on projects with with such features have.I’ve done 4 layers as far as i remember.
Thanks
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Jonni Reply:
September 4th, 2009 at 2:11 pm
Hi Payal. The number of layers you need seems to depend on how solid the crumpled paper and masking tape is under the paper mache. On some of my project I used only two layers, but on others, like the baby whale, I had to add up to 7 or 8 to get the skin hard. My rule of thumb is that if you feel any give after the last layer of paper mache is fully dry, it needs another layer.
Thanks Jonni I appreciate all your help.
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Hi,
I am so impressed with this bank and have some ideas to make one for my son…but you didn’t mention in the directions where you put the coin slot or the ‘plug’ (if there is one)…Thanks for the amazing work.
L
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Jonni Reply:
September 27th, 2009 at 8:38 am
I did cut a slot into the back of my pig. I didn’t add a hole for a plug just because I remember how much fun it was trying to jiggle and shake my own piggy bank, way back in the day, when I wanted to retrieve a quarter. However, cutting a hole in the tummy and plugging it with something slightly larger than the largest coin would make sense. Let us know how you decide to do it.
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Wow, I like this variation on the balloon piggy bank. And the piggy looks very real! I wish I had more time so I could make my own!
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WOW- I love the piggy! I lead a Brownie troop and was just looking for ideas for our “Building Art” badge – I think this idea may be just perfect! With a little help the 8-9 y/o girls could build something beautiful and recycled too! In between our weekly meetings should give it plenty of time to dry between layers. Thanks!!!
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hahaha good job i’ll make ds one for my project at science XD first year high school sucks but (there is a but*) u do not suck you rule men i love you hahaha
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Hello, I am getting ready to make my first ever paper mache project. I did a lot of reading and I am not sure what recipe to use. I hear that flour paper mache projects will not last and may mold unless they are varnished. Should I use a glue and water recipe instead? Please help before I begin…thanks
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Jonni Reply:
December 5th, 2009 at 4:58 pm
Paper mache made with flour and water will last for many years if you keep it dry. That’s the trick for keeping the mold out. One very good way to keep it dry is by adding varnish, although acrylic paint also provides some protection. I like to use a matte acrylic varnish on my sculptures, and I have also used water-based Verathane.
Have fun with your new project.
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