I do hope you’ll experiment with these two new slightly-altered paper mache clay recipes if you have access to a few cups of powdered ceramic clay.
The clay I used was ordered from Georgies in Portland. It’s their Wonder White clay. I think any ceramic clay without grog would work the same way. (You probably won’t want to order a whole 50 pounds, but that’s the smallest amount I could get. If you want to play with this, call your local pottery supply store and ask if they have any powdered clay).
I haven’t had a chance to try any of this new paper mache clay on a sculpture yet, but I have used paper mache clay that has wet ceramic clay mixed in, and I haven’t seen it crack when it dries – but it’s always possible that it could crack, as Steve suggested sometime last year. (Anything’s possible, right?) Once more people have a chance to try it out and give us their feedback, we’ll have a better feel for whether it’s worth going to the extra trouble to make this version, or if we should stick with the original paper mache clay.
One important point, though – I don’t think you can mix it with a small hand-held kitchen mixer. I’m pretty sure it would burn out the motor. A really heavy-duty stand mixer with a dough hook might work. But watch carefully, so you don’t lose your expensive equipment. (That would make for a very expensive batch of experimental paper mache clay.) It seemed to work just fine today in my food processor.
The specific proportions I used are below the videos. This first video is the latest one, showing the changes I made to the recipe after receiving your feedback. I really like this version, and the recipe you’ll find down below are for this version. The second video is the one I made a few days ago.
Latest Recipe for Paper Mache Clay with Powdered Clay Used as Filler:
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-All or Rich’s home made glue
- 1 cup Joint Compound (any brand except Dap)
1 tablespoon boiled linseed oil (or substitute glycerin or mineral oil/baby oil, instead)- 1/2 cup powdered ceramic clay
- approximately 1 1/2 cups damp toilet paper, with as little water left in as possible
I have now decided, after using both of these new recipes, that the version using Elmer’s is “faster” when covering a large area of an armature. It goes on very smooth, is easy to spread, and can be sanded when it’s dry. The version with Rich’s glue, however, can be modeled with extremely fine details, and that’s what I’ll be using for eyes, noses, fingers, etc. The detail you can get are truly amazing. Try both ways, and see what you think.
If you’re wondering if this clay is stiff enough to make a sculpture without an armature, I can’t answer that. I haven’t tried it. It might work, but I’m not sure it would dry all the way through. If you try it, please let us know. If you’re thinking about using it with kids, don’t use the boiled linseed oil – it has chemicals in it. Use mineral oil or glycerin instead.
If you try these new versions of the clay, please let us know how they turn out, and if you like them better than the original recipe for paper mache clay. Do they go on smoother, can you get details easier, did I add enough clay, or too much? Does your clay crack or do any other weird thing that we should know about? Let us know.
- My favorite online bookstore.
{ 77 comments… read them below or add one }
Spelling corrections:
Thanks to you Jonni, I’ve built up the confidence to start a webpage (under construction) and make neat & different things with your clay recipe. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. I already sold 5 art pieces on Etsy and one of them was a request!!!
Here is the recipe I use which of course includes some of the ingredients you suggest in your latest clay recipe:
My version of clay-c/o Debbie Vandeventer, Jonni and Stolloween
1 cup of powdered clay
1 cup liquid fabric softener
1 tablespoon-Limestone
1/2 cup white glue
1/4 or possibly 1/3 cup of plaster of paris
Cellulose fiberfill
Mix the first 4 ingredients together until it’s the consistency of very thin pancake batter. (Add the plaster of paris and mix well). Slowly add the cellulose fiberfill and mix until it becomes a workable and spreadable consistency.
It works just fine for me and the clay is smooth and durable when it hardens!!
We love you and hope your Christmas will be fantastic!! CHEERS TO YOU!!!! Later I will send you a pic of a beautiful angel we are currently working on using the clay recipe as well as the paper clay store brand.
hi Jonni just want to say thanks again for such an amazing recipe i make Cosplay weapons and items with it. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e72/fleata1/ebay/November/252312_309078549205064_1155578456_n.jpg
for example of two Chakrams. this was with the original recipe .
however i’m in the UK and trying to find powdered ceramic clay to see how your 2.0 recipe goes with what i’m making. but i just cant find any here online, I know you dont really need it but would like to try it out on the next project i do. Has anyone else managed to find something that works in the UK? like the all-purpose powder filler say Powdered Mortar Plasticiser or something cheaper that the powdered marble which is horrifically expensive here. or Unibond White Reduced Dust Powdered Adhesive. sorry for all the questions.
What type of clay did you buy and what is it generally used for there? for just art and crafts or it used for something else that I might find the equivalent. could i find it in say a hardware store or just an arts and crafts store?
anyways thanks for reading i hope you can answer my questions. I managed to find the sheetrock joint compound in the UK not easily but it exsists.
Thanks Jonni you have helped me get my Cosplay making off the ground.
I think you’d have much better luck just looking for regular clay at a local pottery store or art store. Lately I’ve been using 1/4 cup of wet clay in the recipe, and I really like how it works. I think I’ve been using just slightly less paper, too, but I don’t really measure any more. There must be a pottery supply store, or a potter who will let you have a small amount of clay near you.
The kind I’m using is just regular low-fire earthenware clay, like the kind they make pots with.
Hello Jonni,
I called Georgie’s about the powdered ceramic clay, but they sayd they have many clays in powder, and wouldn’t know which one is going to work in paper mache. Can you please let me know which powdered clay you used.
Greatfully yours,
Semyon
Hi Semyon. Actually, you can use any low-fire clay. You don’t even need to use the powdered clay – lately I’ve been throwing about 1/3 cup of wet pottery clay into the original recipe, and it works just fine. The powdered clay version was a fairly elaborate experiment, but in all honesty the original recipe without the clay is fine, too.
I was wondering why you seem so hesitant to actually give the brand name of the powdered clay out? A few different people asked, but instead of giving the name, you just gave alternate methods. Is it a liability issue?
Every pottery supply store sells clay from a different place, so I don’t think “brands” don’t really apply. I also don’t think it really matters, since the powdered clay is just used as a filler in this recipe. I bought mine from Georgies.com. The particular clay I used was the powdered Wonder White. But really – it doesn’t matter. In fact, I am now using a local clay sold in South Dakota, and instead of powdered clay I’m using about 1/4 cup of wet clay (a low-fire clay that’s supposed to be great for kids, but I’m not sure why). It’s cheap, and it does make a nice smooth paper mache clay. But you don’t actually have to use any clay at all – the original paper mache clay recipe works fine without it.
http://ultimatepapermache.com/jonniclay2
“The clay I used was ordered from Georgies in Portland. It’s their Wonder White clay. I think any ceramic clay without grog would work the same way. (You probably won’t want to order a whole 50 pounds, but that’s the smallest amount I could get. If you want to play with this, call your local pottery supply store and ask if they have any powdered clay).”
Hello, just found this and am working on getting all the materials together to try it. I was wondering though, is anyone using it for items that are worn on the skin? Just wondering whether it’s safe with the joint compound and such things after it’s been sealed. Or should I be planning a ‘next to skin’ cover…
The products are from the construction industry, so they aren’t FDA approved, obviously. Also, the clay hardens to a material that is really hard. It would not be very comfortable, I think.
Tried using powdered cornice cement I place of powdered clay…result is incredibly strong fast drying.
. Also replaced toilet paper with fine waste paper pulp and added 1 a 1 1/2 cups fine wood shavings,to bulk out the mix , creates a lighter weight and nice speckled result.
So thankyiu Jonni, I have had lots of fun with your terrific recipe! I am so relieved there are others out there who love creating their own sculpting materials, I was thinking I was quite alone with my little eccentricity.
Hi Sandy. Experiments are fun, aren’t they? I’ve never heard of cornice cement before – where do you buy it?
Cornice cement is a really strong adhesive plaster that is used to stick fancy plaster trims in the angle where ceiling meets wall. If you have ever tried to remove cornice when renovating your will know how strong it can be. You should find it anywhrere that does plastering supplies, same place as jointing compound. As I was doing a large project, and using the mâché to cast from inside a plaster mould. It was a good addition as it seems to dry the mix out. I put the wet paper pulp into an old pillowcase and inor my old washing machine for. A spin to remove the excess water, as my arms were aching from so much squeezing. I rolled the mix in my pottery slab roller (bit like a giant pasta machine) to 1cm thickness. It tore as I handles it into the mold, but presses together again well.
As it dried there was some shrinkage, do you have the same with the TP recipe?
I found that pressing the mâché sheets firmly into the mould with an old metal ice cream scoop worked well and kept the mâché consolidated.
So all good fun, but now I have to clear up the mess!
Thanks, Sandy. I’ll look for it – and after I get all my house-moving projects done, I’ll try out your method. Yes, the paper mache clay does shrink a little as it dries.
Why use toilet paper? Try using printers fine art paper, it already has a clay content which is used to crate the fine printing surface.
Yes, that will work. The toilet paper dissolves almost instantly – that’s why I like to use it. I’m not good at waiting.
I make this recipe using flour instead of clay powder and it works fine. Since I use Rich’s glue, if critters are going to eat it the sugar in the glue will attract them so I don’t worry about more flour.
When I apply the clay to large areas, I roll it out between two pieces of plastic wrap to whatever thickness I want. I use a 12″ piece of 1″ diameter wooden dowl (a closet rod) as a rolling pin, but you could use a rolling pin with a light touch. Then I apply the clay with one piece of the plastic still in place and pat it down on the sculpture, smoothing where it meets the last piece I applied. I can cover large areas really quickly that way.
Wow, fantastic website! I am another potter, and I found you thinking you were using just the mix of paper and clay one of your other commenters talked about. May I suggest shopping tactics for your “powdered clay”? In the US and western Canada, try google searches that include clay body brand names such as Plainsman, and Lauguna to help you find a nearby ceramic or pottery supply house. More eastern types can try looking for Axner, or in Canada Pottery Supply House. In Europe, try contacting anywhere that still makes pottery in your area. They can direct you better than I. Clay is a regional thing. Different kinds will be available in different parts of the country, not to mention different parts of the world. For instance, kaolin is the name given to a group of clays that can be found all over the world, but will have slightly different properties depending on where they are mined. In general, they are very white in appearance and can be quite sticky to work with by themselves, but not all of them. Your commenter Maggie said she had problems with kaolin. Some of them are more workable than others. If you just want a small amount of clay, most ceramic or pottery supply houses sell small quantities of “calcined kaolin”. The shop you mentioned Jonni, sells 1lb (approx 450g for those of us metric users) for 5$ US. The calcining process should reduce the shrinkage and make it more workable. It is usually listed under minerals or raw materials, things that are mixed together to make pottery clay, or clay bodies. If you want to use a lot of it, you can go ahead and buy a 50 lb bag of a premixed clay body from a local pottery or ceramic supply house. As clay is a regional sort of thing, I suggest calling and talking to someone. Most have a toll free number. You want to ask for a smooth, white clay body with low dry shrinkage( 5% or less). Firing temperature and fired shrinkage will not matter if you are air drying. Also, mould does grow quite readily in clay! Its a sedimentary formation. Think silt on the bottom of a river bed, with all kinds of accompanying biological inclusions. Potters encourage some moulding, because it increases plasticity. It isn’t the toxic kind, but it can cause reactions in those with asthma or allergies. As a final note, all clay contains some free silica. This is silica that isn’t bonded with other elements, and can be hazardous if inhaled over time, (like 25 years) or in large quantities (if you’re a sandblaster). If you must sand this stuff, it’s a good idea to use a HEPA filtered mask. Hope this helps!
Thanks! Of course, the original paper mache clay recipe (with no real clay in it) is also an option for anyone who can’t find a local pottery supply store. I’m still on the fence about which recipe is best, but the original is definitely the easiest if you don’t have a pottery store down the street.
I am Interested in an old recipe and/or process:
Once there was a way to mold paper mache and add linseed oil and “bake” it to make furniture. I am interested in how this was done, although I doubt I will ever try to do it.
I am a railroad modeler and I am looking for a way to make beautiful hills without foam (expensive and an ecological disaster) or plaster of Paris, which is heavy and brittle.
I don’t know exactly how they did it, but this PDF might be a good place to start your research: http://www.si.edu/mci/downloads/relact/papier_mache.pdf
Hi Jonni! About 8-10 months ago I purchased 1 pound of kaolin clay, with the idea of adding some of it to a batch of paper mache clay. I didn’t like my results, but I also had left the flour in the recipe. Today I made a batch of Jonni Clay-2, using the Kaolin Clay for the 1/2 cup powdered ceramic clay. I also used mineral oil instead of linseed oil. I don’t think my clay turned out like yours! LOL, it whipped up like frosting in my Kitchen Aid mixer. It is really white, though! But it was a little sticky, still. I just wanted to let everyone know that Kaolin Clay doesn’t seem to work as well! I guess I’ll have to wait to experiment more ’til I can get a better powdered clay.
On another note, have you ever tried using Sta-Flo as a “smoothing liquid” when you sculpt? It really makes the surface set up, and you can get a really smooth finish. I just dip my fingers into the liquid starch, and smooth the surface of the paper mache clay that I’ve applied. I know that there is a reaction between the glue and the liquid starch. After all, there are numerous recipes on the ‘net for Silly Putty made with glue and starch. I tried adding some of the liquid starch to my regular Jonni Clay, but it made the clay almost unworkable. It had rubbery globs in it.
Well, that’s the two experipents I’ve done!
Thanks, Maggie. I’ll try that idea with the Sta-Flo – that really sounds interesting. And it’s good to know that the Kaolin Clay didn’t work the same as the clay I used. I’m not sure why there would be a difference.
Hi all,
Thanks for the info on Koalin clay. Here in UK I’m still having problems obtaining powdered clay. I can get some sent to me but the cost + delivery is way out of my budget for these masks I am doing. So, I didn’t do any work over the weekend as planned.
I have now decided to use some fine fast-set plaster powder instead of the clay. Has anyone used this? What were the results? I am assuming the Jonniclay will set faster and, I hope, sand easier.
Annie (UK)
I haven’t tried it, but it does sound like an interesting idea. Remember, too, that the original recipe works great, without the clay powder. That was an experiment I did to see if I could make an improvement, but you can certainly use the original recipe without it.
Hello, I just found your wonderful site. Thank you for such good information and the nice clear videos! I am wondering about using bentonite clay [cat litter, ground fine] in this recipe. I am so happy to have found this inspiring group!
Someone has suggested that it would work. And remember that the original recipe, without the real clay, works just fine.
what can we replace instead of the powder
Sorry I don’t have anything to contribute about the Jonniclay. I just wanted to offer my grateful thanks for you freely-given expert help and advice.
I got landed with entering a ‘Mask’ competition for my branch of the W.I. Then…. I was told it must be papier mache. I’d never even heard of the stuff! I searched Google and eventually found you on You Tube.
I’ve completed my first experimental mask. Made some of the usual (and probably – not so usual) mistakes and discovered I actually loved every single minute.
Having sent for the book, watched your videos and with a panful of soaking loo-roll at the ready, this weekend I shall be having another go at mask making.
Hoping to keep up with you all and joining in some of the live tutorials. Keep your fingers crossed for me that my next mask will weigh less than the first one. It would take scaffolding and mains cable as ties for anyone to keep it on their face
Good luck, Annie. I hope you let us see the mask when it’s done.
EXCELLENT RECIPE!! I JUST ORDERED A 50 LB BAG ON DICK BLICK!!
46 Buff Stoneware. Thank you Jonni!!!
Great – I hope you’ll let us know what you think of your new paper mache clay once you’ve made up your first batch.
what can we replace instead of the ceramic clay powder
If you don’t want to use the clay, just use the original recipe. It works great. I was just playing around with it one day, when I got bored. The original works just fine without the clay.
Hi Jonni,
If you were to use a pre-fired ceramic or porcelain powder you would get less shrinkage with the product upon drying. You can get the powder from ceramics and art and craft suppliers, I purchased a no-name brand at my local ceramics supplier but there are brands such as Alumilite ( http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Support%20Products&Name=Porcelain%20Powder ), which is sold for resin casting, that can be purchased online. There are also some companies such as Insullad that sell the ceramic powder as an additive for paint.
I am using mine in a homemade polymer clay. I used to use bentonite clay powder in this polymer clay but after using the ceramic powder once I won’t ever go back to the clay. With the clay I was getting 40-60% shrinkage, with the ceramic powder I only get 15-20% shrinkage.
Rob, that sounds like an interesting idea. I think I have to work through the 50 pounds of powdered clay that I bought before trying it, though.
Would you mind telling us how you make your homemade polymer clay? Is it air dry, oven dry, or non-drying modeling clay?
Quick question … in original JonniClay, you mention that the wet toilet paper is 1 1/4 cups. In JonniClay 2.0 you count it as 1 1/2 … are you intending to leave more water in the 2.0? Or is it just how they came out when you measured?
I’m curious because I don’t wet my paper when making my clay. So I’m trying to get a feel for comparing wet and dry ingredients between your recipe and mine.
That’s why I was looking at the wet paper amounts. I’m guestimating your 1 1/2 cups of wet toilet paper as about 1/2 water, 1/2 paper. ( So 3/4 cu water, 3/4 cu dry paper. ) Does that seem fair?
If so, it looks like you have a 3:2 ratio between liquid ingredients (3/4 cu glue + 3/4 cu water = 1 1/2 cu) and joint compound (1 cu).
Then after combining those, you have a 2:1 ratio between wet/JC (2 1/2 cu) and dry (3/4 cu paper + 1/2 cu clay powder = 1 1/4 cu).
Am I in the ballpark?
Whoh – that’s a lot of numbers for those of us who are not mathematically inclined! But, since you aren’t wetting your paper, I just now weighed a roll of the paper I use, with the cardboard roll inside removed, of course. The paper weighs 70 gm or 2.4 oz, when dry. The original recipe seems to work if you have somewhere between 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 cups of damp paper, but it’s a bit difficult to be really precise because the paper seems to take up a different amount of room in the cup, depending on how much water is still left in, and how hard the water has been squoze out. (Squoze is a technical term…
)
I hope his helps. By the way, how do you make the clay without wetting the paper? And how much paper “works” in the recipe when you make it that way?
I just now edited this post, again, because I’ve decided that the two versions of the new paper mache clay are both good, but for different reasons. The one with Elmers+powdered clay is fabulous for smoothing over the armature. It goes on fast and smooth, and dries hard – but is still soft enough to sand. The Rich’s Glue+powdered clay version allows you to get extremely fine details – much finer than I could ever get with the original recipe. I don’t think I’ll be changing anything about either of these recipes for a while, since I’m really happy with both of them. If you experiment with either recipe, I hope you’ll let us know how they turned out.
Here is a head shot of my bobcat. Instead of painting the eyes, I bought bobcat taxidermy eyes. I really liked how they turned out. Better than if I painted them. lol. Thanks again for all your info.
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/bobcatface.JPG[/img]
Hi Jonnie, Well, I finally finished my bobcat. Here is the pics of it. I really enjoyed creating him. Had lots of fun. Now I will finish my bear. thanks for all the instructions. If I were to sell my pieces, what would I sell them for? I have no idea. Thanks again. Deb
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/bobcatfinished.JPG[/img]
Debbie, your bobcat is wonderful. Thank you so much for showing him to us.
As to your question about pricing, I’m afraid I have no idea. I talk about this with my daughter all the time – and she doesn’t really know, either. Pricing is hard, because you’re trying to find the number that a buyer will think is reasonable, while also finding the price that will make you feel good about trading your bobcat for money. There are quite a few videos on YouTube from people who think they know how to answer that question. If you watch one that makes you believe they really know what they’re talking about, please let us know.
Hi – Jonni – is it true that sculptures made with your new “Ultimate Paper Mache” will dissolve when gotten wet? And is mold more of a threat when using the additive of powdered clay to the recipe?
Does sealing the dried, painted item guard against both of these disasters? Yours, Joanne
Hi Joanne. The new clay using Rich’s home-made glue will probably soak up water, since there isn’t any plastic in the mix. The original recipe is not waterproof, either – but the plastic in the glue does seem to offer it a bit more protection from moisture. However, the new clay without the added flour dries much faster (I’m not sure why, but it does) so you will be able to seal it sooner than normal paper strips and paste, which take forever to dry, and even sooner than the original paper mache clay recipe. As soon as it’s sealed, the little mold spores can’t get to it, and moisture in the air can’t get in, either.
The clay itself shouldn’t cause any extra problems, but clay does like water. So does paper. And joint compound. All of the ingredients will attract water, (true of any paper mache) so the pieces will need to be sealed.
Mold doesn’t really like clay (it’s just dirt, after all) but mold does like paper. Mold also likes the ingredients in Rich’s glue recipe, although the vinegar might discourage mold growth. My extra glue has been in a closed bottle for several days, and it isn’t bubbling the way flour and water paste would be by now, so it does seem to be less prone to fungal growth then paste.
All good questions, though – and there just hasn’t been enough experience with the new recipe to answer all of them. I do hope we get some more input from other users.
Just had to comment on your comment that mold doesn’t really like clay. A few days ago I opened up a plastic bag of previously-opened “BlackJack” clay (a brown clay available in craft stores that can be air-dried or fired.) When I opened it, it had the distinct smell of dirt, like a potting soil. And even though they were difficult to see on the brown clay I saw some sort of whitish spores growing. My guess is that although the bag was sealed and kept out of the sunlight in the original box it came in, there was enough moisture in the bag that over time, the mold grew. So a cautionary tale of mold and clay.
Lisa
Good to know, Lisa. I guess mold will really grow anywhere, if it has moisture. Keep that bag sealed, eh?
Yes, but somehow the moisture got sealed IN the bag. So, instant green-house type situation for the spores to grow. I guess the clay cannot be too moist when kept in the bag…
That’s strange, because I have some clay in a plastic bag that I bought over six months ago. I opened it and used some, and then closed it back up again. No mold. Maybe it depends on the climate or the season or something. I don’t think I’ll worry about it too much – but I have been adding just a little bleach to the water when I soak my toilet paper for the paper mache clay.
My question is for reader, commenter – Ruth Root. Since you seem well versed in paper clay, does this mean that you can predict, with some certainty, the results of adding powdered clay to paper mache? Please, if you will, give us your recommended recipe for this new “Jonniclay”, or as Jonni would now prefer to call it – Ultimate Paper Mache. (Good Name – Jonni). Also, can you base your recipe on Jonni’s recommended clay additive – Wonder White by Georgie’s?
As many sculpture hobbyists/artists can attest to – the “happy accident” as the late Bob Ross (a wonderful artist) used to say, is not at all happy when it comes to sculpture work. So if we can avoid any and all accidents our life will be that much easier. Any help you can give us will be very appreciated.
Thanks. Joanne
Hi Jonni – Question – do I need something special to mix the new clay with? What do I need?
Hi Joanne. This latest version, using Rich’s home-made glue, mixed up really well in the food processor. It is also a bit less stiff than the earlier versions that I played with, so it would probably mix with a hand mixer, like the original recipe. The power drill is difficult to control, but it does a good job. If you chop up the paper as Tanya suggested in the food processor, it’s easiest to throw in all the other ingredients and do it all in the same appliance – but I don’t know if that’s really something people will want to do with a machine they also use for their food. I bought my food processor specifically for this purpose, after seeing the photos on Tanya’s website.
Probably the best would be to chop the paper in the food processor (that shouldn’t hurt it for future use in the kitchen) and then mix all the rest of the ingredients with a good mixer. Hopefully, some other people will play with this recipe and give us some feedback about this.
I think that I translate the recipe and the process of the English language. Tomorrow I will try to do it. And now we have the night, you should rest.
Thanks, Tanya. Sleep well.
Thanks to everyone who commented and left suggestions on this post. I played around with the paper mache clay recipe a bit more, and I really like the result. It’s now smoother, it isn’t sticky, and it holds incredible detail. It’s also less expensive to make, which is always a plus. Please take a look at the new recipe, and the new video – the one at the top – and see what you think. The newest, latest, updated version feels a lot like Creative Paperclay, and is a lot of fun to work with.
I am very glad that you got it. I also kneaded mass of clay, but I have not had the opportunity to mix thoroughly, and all of this happened a bit with the weight of clots. I pass it through a meat grinder. This mass is very flexible, you can even make it out to the elephant’s ears without the frame.
Thanks, Tanya. I didn’t use your exact formula, though – I’m not quite sure what materials you’re using.
By the way, if anyone else happens to speak Tanya’s language, perhaps you could help us with some of the details. I think the translation system she’s using is losing some of the important points. Any help would be appreciated. She does have her original recipe on her site, and she gave us the link (click here). It sounds like her version is stronger than this latest version that I’m playing with.
Jonni, I had not thought about your drying your paperclay on plaster (which we do in pottery) and yes, you are correct about the glue sealing the plaster. Good catch. You are on such a neat train of thought and everyone’s input is absolutely great! Your recipes are well thought out and my advice to everyone writing to ask you about ‘what if I use ‘x’ instead of ‘y’ spurs new ideas…just everyone, TRY all sorts of different things and then note how it turned out and let us all know.
Amaco used to sell a little box of a clay body in the craft stores such as Hobby Lobby and Michaels for a nominal price. Also, Ceramics Monthly came out with a recipe for a PaperClay about 20 years ago. They have a great index if one wants to look it up. Most libraries have back issues. Shortly after the article came out, one company started making this PaperClay and copywrited the formula….which was ridiculous as the recipe was already out there. You are generous in giving your recipe up front. One can make the most wonderful things and for certain, someone is going to copy it….but…BUT no one can make exactly what another makes as everyone has differend hands/experience/ideas. Too much time is wasted on worrying about someone copying your product/art. Just DO it!
Ruth
Amarillo
Title: AMAZING PAPERCLAY
Author: Rosette Gault
Page: 96
Ceramics Monthly
Volume: 40
Issue: 6
Issue Date: 06/92
Hi Ruth. I have a video by Rosette, which is quite good. In fact, I also wrote a post that suggested that paperclay would probably be an easier and more enjoyable craft medium for young kids than paper mache. The paper strips and paste require a lot of hand coordination, and paper mache isn’t quite as intuitive to use. Paperclay, on the other hand, is something that kids understand immediately, and the finished pieces will dry hard enough to paint even if they aren’t fired. I didn’t give Rosette’s formula, but linked to another site that explained the process.
I’ll ask my library if they have that article – it would be interesting to read, even though I know absolutely nothing about pottery or ceramics.
I think if you add the weight of flour, it will not be worse.
I might be reconsidering the flour issue. I made up a batch without flour, as Tanya suggested. It was quite stiff (I may have used too much clay) but it was, by far, the easiest one to sculpt, and it dried smooth and hard. I’ll make up another batch with less flour, and see what happens. (Maybe we should call this version TanyaClay?)
I can still offer a lot of added starch, with more plastic is obtained.
Hi Jonni,
Wondering if you still need the flour if you are using powdered clay? What is the purpose of the flour — to be a filler? Wouldn’t the clay serve this purpose? (Just a hypothesis I had, I have no idea if it would or not)
Also, in regards to Creative Paperclay sticking to paper mache, I have never had any problems. In fact they seem to “play together” quite nicely. lol
Thanks as always for your continuing documentation of your adventures in paper mache!
Lisa
Hi Lisa. I couldn’t get the Paperclay to stick at all – that’s weird. Maybe I wasn’t doing it right.
Tanya said that she doesn’t use any flour when she makes paper mache clay with ceramic clay. I tried it this morning, and it works, but for some reason I didn’t like the “feel” of it. I guess I’m just looking for something that is really similar to the original recipe, but with a smoother finish. And a bit softer, so it can be sanded a little easier. I hope people will play with the proportions and various ingredients, and let us know what works best.
Does the new clay need to dry in an oven?
Just received your book on masks and I love it.
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/resizedAmericanIdleaudition-1.jpg[/img]
Hi Nancy. I’m glad you like the book. And no, the clay should air dry, just like the original recipe. (love the creature – he seems musically inclined.:) )
Jonni, I’m a potter. I’m VERY experienced in adding paper pulp to a clay body. I absolutely love it and enjoy playing with it. However, what you are looking for when you buy a ‘clay powder’ you need to be looking for a clay body. A clay body is a mixture of various clays that are formulated for whatever the potter wants to make as well as to what temperature to fire the clay body to. Personally, I love working with a terra cotta clay body with my paper pulp but that is a preference of mine. Normally, when one mixes paper pulp with clay, the paper pulp is in a less proportion than what you are using. The pieces I make with my version of paperclay, I fire to 1850 degrees and the paper burns out. The resulting piece is half the weight of a normal piece of pottery.
Ok, all this said, if you are using ANY clay in your paper mache body, realize that if you get it wet, the clay will dissolve. It will disolve even 100 years or more from now if it gets wet…if it is not fired. You and I might need to correspond off site for me to help clear up about the properties of clay if you don’t have a potter friend.
Another thing about using any paper pulp is that eventually you will have mold. The mold doesn’t hurt a person, but it will eventually negate any paper that you put in the mixture. Trial and practice…make notes…
When I mix my paperclay, I use a medium to heavy duty variable speed drill with a long shank paint mixer attached. I do mix my paperclay body with extra water and then pile it all on some bath towels to let it dry out to the consistency that I want to work with.
I also use chopped nylon in my clay and paper clay…this gives it stability, strength and helps with the shrinkage.
Regards,
Ruth
Amarillo
Hi Ruth. Yes, mold can be a real problem with paper mache sculptures, especially in climates that are more humid than we have here in Eastern Oregon. But if the pieces are well sealed, neither mold nor moisture should get in. The paper mache clay I’ve made with small amounts of “real” clay have held up really well, but I do seal them as soon as they’re painted and dry.
I thought about trying to dry out the paper mache clay on a plaster slab, but the glue in the mix would fill in the plaster and it would stop absorbing water. The towel idea would be easier – but for practical purposes, especially if the paper mache clay is to be used over a crumpled paper and masking tape armature, I do think the wetter mix will work better. The drier mixes I experimented with were more “clay-like,” but they were more difficult to with. I guess it would be a matter of taste – more experimentation is needed, for sure.
This sounds very interesting and I would guess it will work fine.
Looking forward to having time to try it. I’m wondering if it could be used in small molds.
Hi GrandmaJoyce. I think it might work better in molds than the original recipe. I hadn’t thought of that until Douglas posted a link of a video from India, which uses a mixture of dry clay, arrowroot paste, and dried, powdered paper pulp. They use the mixture in molds. You can see the video on YouTube here. I think this new mix has a texture that’s similar to the goo in the video, but I haven’t actually tried using it in a mold. Hopefully, somebody will try it and let us know if it works.
Hi Jonni,
I did have a question, I was wondering how sticky this is in comparison to the creative paperclay?
Thanks Kathy..
It depends. The proportions I listed will give you a very soft mixture that will stick to your hands. If you add more clay and then knead in some soft wax or mineral oil at the end, it will be very similar to creative paperclay. But, like the paperclay product, new paper mache clay won’t stick to dried paper mache clay unless you add more glue. The batch I made that feels closest to the commercial product had perhaps twice as much clay as shown in the list, and I then added Gamblin Cold Wax Medium by hand. I don’t think I dried any of that mixture to see how much it shrinks or how well it dries.
Hello I would like to talk about his experiments with the addition of blue clay (the other we did not find). First added it in its raw form, but then papier-mâché paste is to give greater shrinkage. In the next batch, I added the clay powder. Conclusion: I liked the pasta, it has become more robust, due to the clay. To this mass is stuck to the previous layer (dried), it is sufficient to lubricate the glue. I make a paste to another, without the addition of flour and oil. Sorry, I write with a translator, to answer questions as best I can. At the bottom put photographs of works that are done with the aid of paste, which added a blue clay.
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC00865.JPG[/img]
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC009151.jpg[/img]
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC009201.jpg[/img]
Hi Tanya. Thanks for the feedback. Would you be willing to share your specific formula for the paper mache paste with clay? (Love the cat on your home page. Delightful!)
Here I have a basic recipe, I hope that it will be clear http://tanajpapirmache.jimdo.com/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B8-%D0%BC%D0%B0%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B5%D1%80-%D0%BA%D0%BB%D0%B0%D1%81%D1%81%D1%8B/. For this recipe, I add 0.5 kg of powder blue clay. Then, in the process of kneading, I add the glue to get the desired state of papier-mache paste. The most interesting thing I paste kneaded his feet
)) The orange bottle, it is dishwashing detergent. Adding his two or three teaspoons. The weight of one roll of toilet paper (dry), about 50 grams.
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC010841.jpg[/img]
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC010621.jpg[/img]
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC010811.jpg[/img]
Thank you! I tried a batch this morning, without the oil or flour. I didn’t add any dish washing detergent, and I didn’t grind the soaked paper after the water was squeezed out. I did use my food processor to mix it, though, and it came out quite nice. Stiffer than the version I made yesterday. Now I’ll go do it all again, following your instructions.
What do you call this material? Do you have a special name for it?
I used the recipe has added a hide glue (carpenter), and then stopped to add (smell is not tasty). His weight did not call, just a mass of papier-mache
)) Most importantly, the recipe was less water, or when dry pasta will give a stronger contraction.
I also love working with sawdust paste, my husband brings home from work. Adding all the same as in the papier-mâché paste, but instead of toilet paper filings (sieved through a sieve).
[img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSC00911.JPG[/img]
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