Happy Christmas, everyone.
This is the time of year when I get the “what would happen if?” urges, so lately I’ve been testing various minor additions and changes to the original paper mache clay recipe, hoping to find one that will work well in a mold. I previously tried using the original recipe in molds, and I couldn’t get a predictable result. So – back to the drawing board.
After getting every bowl in the house dirty, and filling my garbage bin with rejects, I think I have now found a recipe that will work better in molds. I’ll post the recipe when I know for sure.
To test the new recipe, I made two molds using Rebound 25. Last summer I made molds using urethane rubber, which is messy – I was hoping that the silicone would be more fun to use, and so far I’m quite happy with it.
I built two models using water-based clay. The wolf and cougar were allowed to dry, and then I prepared them for the mold silicone by sealing them with a product called SuperSeal that I purchased from Farwest Materials in Walla Walla.
Silicon Mold for Wolf Wall Hanging, Step 1
You can see that I designed the shape of the wolf wall hanging so that I could easily reach all parts of the mold from the other side. The paper mache clay will need to be pressed in by hand, and a lot of pressure will be needed to get all the details. The sealer prevents the silicone mold material from entering the dry clay, which would ruin the mold.
Rebound 25 Mold Material
The next step was to mix up the Rebound 25, a silicone product that is mixed 1 to 1 by volume. I should also have purchased some Thi Vex, a product that will thicken the silicone for the second and third coats, but the supplier had run out temporarily. I hoped that I could make do without it. This was a mistake, because the liquid rubber flows off of any high spots, leaving them very thin, regardless of how many coats are added. The rubber over the wolf’s eyelashes are very thin, and the thickener would have prevented that. Oh well – live and learn…
The starter kit, shown above, was enough for both the wolf and the cougar, with about 1/3 left over for another project.
Silicone Mold for Wolf Wall Mask, Step 2
You can see how thin the rubber is when you paint it on the model. This is perfect for the first coat, because it catches every detail. For later coats, it really should be thickened with the Thi Vex stuff.
Silicone Mold for Wolf Wall Hanging, Step 3
The mold rubber dries for about 1 hour between coats. You can see in the photo above how it tends to drip and move to lower spots when the thickener isn’t used. The photo above shows the wolf after 4 coats have been added, and it’s now curing. I allowed it to cure overnight.
Silicone Mold for Wolf Wall Hanging, Step 4
When the silicone has cured it’s time to make the mother mold. I wanted a mother mold that’s lighter than poured plaster, because I’ll probably be holding the mold in my lap while I press the paper mache clay into it. I decided to try using the plaster-impregnated gauze, which I have never tried before. This is how wolf looks after several layers of bandage have been added, with extra gauze put on around the edges and over the ears. I let it dry for several hours while I made a run to the store to stock up on dog food.
Silicone Mold for Wolf Wall Hanging
Silicone Mold for Cougar Wall Hanging
I made the mold for the cougar at the same time as the wolf, and both of them came out quite nice. No air holes or defects in the surface, and they caught all the detail. The Rebound 25 makes much less mess than the urethane molds I made last summer, which is something that matters when you’re doing it in your kitchen.
The molds are not cheap, unfortunately. I estimate that the wolf and the cougar molds, including the mother molds, the silicone and the SuperSeal, cost about $15 each. They’re about 9 inches wide. Of course the water-based clay was sealed so it can’t be used again, and the oil-based clay I used to create the edges of the molds now has bits of plaster in it. I suppose these materials should also be added into the cost.
I’ll now see if the new paper mache clay mixture will work in the molds. If I get a good result I’ll let you see them (and maybe the hippo that is still waiting for her mold), but it probably won’t be until after the New Year. Until then, I hope you have a fantastic holiday, and that you’ve thought up some fun and interesting new paper mache projects to show us!




{ 22 comments… read them below or add one }
Hello,
I have a question about undercuts when using a silicone mold. Does the silicon come out of the plaster mother mold or is it in there permenantly? If it’s permenant, doesn’t that defeat the purpose of a flexible mold? I guess I need to know more about unmolding the finished mask.
Thanks,
Tyra
Hi Tyra. You would normally build up the outside of your silicone so there aren’t undercuts that would trap the mold inside the outside plaster shell. The best place to learn about silicone and urethane molds is on the Smooth-on website. Click on the video tab at the top of their page.
Hello – love looking at all your beautiful paper mache art projects! I had a question about your molds – do you think you could make a mold from a finished project that has been painted already? would it ruin the paint job?
I don’t know. I have wondered that, myself, but I’ve always been too chicken to try it. The folks at http://www.farwestmaterials.com/ sold me the silicone mold stuff, and they’re really good at answering questions that you send them by email. I’d suggest that you ask them before you try it. And please be sure to let us know what you find out!
Hey Jonni – great work with the dog and cat – hope they don’t fight on the wall. But seriously, love these marvelous sculpts and subsequent molds. Curious to know – what specifically did you use to make:
1) the original clay sculpt (which water based clay?) and
2) what is the recipe for the clay for reproduction from the molds made?
3) And finally, which mold material did you use?
Lovely work that I’m sure a lot of time and careful consideration went into. Hope your holidays were great as mine. Looking forward to hearing from you. Yours, Joanne
The originals were made with water based clay, the mold was Smooth-On’s Rebound 25, a silicone material that comes in two parts. I tried many recipes for the clay and never found one I was happy with, because the paper bits seemed to catch in odd places and formed voids in the surface of the finished piece. I ended up using a home-made “instant paper mache” that I talked about here. The recipe is on that page. For some reason I decided that I didn’t like the wolf, so I never finished him. Now I can’t remember why I didn’t like him, so I might have to go back and do it again.
This looks terrific. I’ve been experimenting with vinamold and I wonder if I could use it to do this process. Have you experimented with different smooth-on silicones or with vinamold?
I have not used very many products, and I’ve never heard of vinamold. Have you used it for anything?
hey jonni, been learning tons from your site, have it on my bookmarks, and I’m completing a series of sculptures based on your methods learned here! what kind/brand of water-based clay did you use for your animals?
The sculptures on this post were first made with a locally-available sculptor’s clay from Georgie’s pottery supply store in Portland, Oregon. Then, of course, the molds were made from that, and the final pieces were made using the plaster-paper pulp recipe. Natural clay comes in a lot of different textures and “feel,” so you would just want to find one that you like working with.
Hi Jonni,
Thank you for the tip suggesting I use the plaster/paper recipe instead of the paper mache clay recipe to use inside a mould. I will give it a bash.
Also, I have gone to our hardware stores here and am not able to obtain “joint compound” in a powder form. Here, it’s all pre-mixed which is not what I need to make your paper mache clay. Would anyone out there who lives in Australia be able to advise me what I could use instead. It was suggested I use cornice cement as it has a gluey feel to it, but also dries quickly.
Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
Thanks again Jonni for your suggestion and I will give that a go.
Regards
Kim from Australia.
(I noticed you had another Kim, so thought I would put down where I am from to differentiate between us).
Hi Kim from Australia. The paper mache clay recipe actually uses the pre-mixed joint compound. You can use the dry powder too, but you need to pre-mix it according to the package instructions before adding it to the rest of the recipe. So the product at your local hardware store should be just fine.
I’m not familiar with the cement product, but you may find that it firms up too quickly. Also, since it must contain Portland cement rather than calcium carbonate (like the joint compound) it will have different characteristics when mixed with the glue. I don’t know if it would work, but if you experiment with it, let us know how it turns out.
i’m so happy i JUST found this AWESOME site!!! i can’t wait to go through every little detail… thank you for your wonderful ideas!!
Gosh – you’re welcome.
Beautiful art, Jonni. I hope the new recipe works well for casting!
Sorry, I should clarify the silicone used @ YouTube is caulk…
Lovely work! I want to try the silicone.method I saw on YouTube to make a mold…have you tried that yet? If you’re interested I can find and send you the link-just email me. I love coming to your site and getting inspired!
Hi Kim. I did try using silicone caulk for a mold last year, but I wasn’t happy with the result. The caulk is not intended for this use, and therefore it doesn’t work as well as products made for molds. However, if you have a small item and you’d like to try it, you might be happy with it. I found it difficult to work with because it’s so thick, and I couldn’t find anything to spread it with that didn’t stick to the caulk – and I seem to remember voids forming under the caulk because it isn’t thin enough to brush out. Just my experiences with it. The video on YouTube seems to prove it can be done, though. If you try it, please let us know how it turns out.
Merry Christmas Jonni! Those are amazing! The wolf is quite realistic, but are you going to make the lower jaw? Wolves are my most favorite animal! I’d love to see it when its done!
Thanks, Monica. The shape is based on traditional leather masks, which leave off the lower jaw. The shape will give me access to all parts of the inside of the mold – we’ll see how well it actually works on the wall when they’re all done. Wish me luck…
I love these animals! They are so intense looking, and beautiful too.
Thanks, Jessie. I’m playing around with human expressions on critters, having fun with it. I hope you’re having a great Christmas Eve -