Paper Mache Clay
A few months ago I developed a new recipe for a sculptural material I call “paper mache clay.” This material is so easy to use and so easy to make that I now use it exclusively for all my paper mache sculptures.
It might be a bit more accurate to call this material “home-made air-dried cellulose-reinforced polymer clay,” but that’s way too hard to say (or type!), so for now, let’s just call it paper mache clay.
I’ve been making paper mache sculptures for over 50 years, and for almost all that time I’ve used the traditional paper strips glued together with wheat flour paste over a crumpled paper and masking tape form. Almost all the tutorials on this site are made this way.
However, I now use the clay recipe exclusively, because it allows me to create fine details easily, it dries extremely hard when applied in a very thin layer (1/8 to 1/4″ thick) and the clay dries much faster than traditional paper mache pulp. (And it only takes about 5 minutes to make).
Paper Mache Clay on Snow Leopard Sculpture
As you can see above, the clay can be modeled into fairly fine details. Using the clay for modeling feels much more intuitive than creating sculptures with paper strips and paste, and once the clay is dry it is a pleasure to paint.
The ingredients are inexpensive, and can be found at your local grocery store and hardware store. You will need:
- Cheap toilet paper (one roll per quart of clay)
- 1 cup Joint compound from the hardware store (get “regular,” not “fast set” or “light”.)
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-all
- 1/2 cup White Flour
- 2 tablespoons Linseed Oil
See the video below for details on making your clay. And if you try this recipe, please let us all know what you think of it–and also please share a photo of your finished work. We’d love to see how it comes out. (Can’t see the video? See the instructions printed below).
Making Your Paper Mache Clay
Ingredients:
1 roll of toilet paper
3/4 cup of white glue (Elmer’s glue-All)
1 cup of joint compound
1/2 cup white flour
2 tablespoons linseed oil
Tools:
You’ll also need a large bowl, (use one with high sides so you don’t splatter clay on your cupboards), an electric mixer, a measuring cup and a tablespoon measure. To keep t he finished clay from drying out, you’ll need an air-tight container. The recipe makes approximately 1 quart of paper mache clay.
Note about Toilet Paper:
Unfortunately, the people who make toilet paper don’t expect us to turn their product into great works of art, so they see no reason to include the kind of information that would make things a lot easier for us.
I use a brand called “Angel Soft,” in the “regular” 2-ply rolls. I buy it at my local Wal-Mart. Each roll contains approximately 1 1/4 cup of paper, which I measured by wetting the paper, squeezing out the water, and then firmly squishing it into a measuring cup.
Since brands differ so much, the first time you make this recipe you should take a few minutes to find out how much paper is in the first roll. Then adjust the recipe if your brand don’t contain about 1 1/4 cup of paper. Fortunately, this is not a chemistry experiment or rocket science–if your mixture contains a little more paper than mine, or a little less, your sculptures will still be stunning.
Step 1. Fill a high-sided bowl with warm water. Remove the toilet paper from the roll and throw it into the water. Push down on the paper to make sure all of it gets wet.
Step 2. Then pick up the paper and squeeze out as much water as you can. Pour the water out of the bowl and put your paper mass back in.
Step 3. You will want to break the paper into chunks about 1? across. This will allow your mixer to move around the pieces and break them apart.
Step 4. Add all the ingredients to the bowl and mix, using an electric mixer. The mixer will pull the fibers of the toilet paper apart and turn it into pulp. Continue to mix for at least 3 minutes to make sure all the paper has been mixed in with the other ingredients. If you still see some lumps, use a fork or your fingers (with the mixer turned off!) to break them apart, and then mix some more.
Your paper mache clay is now ready to use. It will look a bit like cookie dough—but don’t eat it!
If you don’t plan to use your clay right away, place it in an airtight container to keep it from drying out. The clay should stay usable for 5 days or more, if you keep it covered. The recipe makes about 1 quart.
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VERY nice.. I will use this to construct an armor. Of course, I will have to apply a layer of sealant. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
If you provide your email in your tips, I will happily deliver pictures of my process.
Thanks!
JR
PS.. really.. tHANKS!
[Reply]
Jonni Reply:
January 8th, 2010 at 6:49 am
Hi Johnny. I’d love to see your project, including photos taken to show how your armor is made from start to finish. You can use the email shown on my contact page. Please edit your photos into a small size if you’d like me to share them in a blog post.
If you intend to take your finished creation outside in the rain you’ll need to use marine (spar) varnish on the outside. If you don’t intend to let it get wet, a water-based Verathane or poylurethane should work just fine, or stick with the matte acrylic varnish from the art store.
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Can I substitute carpenter’s glue for the Elmer white glue?
I have a lot of it lying around…
Thank you for the recipe!
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Jonni Reply:
January 8th, 2010 at 11:10 am
Kat, I’m very glad you asked that! So far, I’ve experimented with three different glues. Two worked, and one was a miserable failure.
Elmer’s Glue-All is the glue I use most of the time, and it works really well.
Titebond II, a weatherproof premium wood glue, is also excellent, and gives a nice smooth feel to the clay, although it’s yellow instead of white. (I was hoping it would make the clay waterproof, but it doesn’t). Since Elmer’s Glue-All is a lot less expensive, I don’t see a strong reason to use Titebond II unless you already have some in your garage.
Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue did not work. The clay isn’t smooth and creamy, and it sort of “curdles.” The glue doesn’t seem to mix at all with the small amount of water that’s left in the toilet paper, and it bonds with the joint compound in an odd way. Don’t try it — I already did, and I know you won’t be happy with the result.
I was surprised to discover that Elmer’s carpenters glue doesn’t work well (and disappointed — I bought a gallon of the stuff). Since the carpenter’s glue is based on polyvinyl acetate, just like the other two glues mentioned, I thought it would work as well. At my age I should know better than make assumptions.
All that said, if you have some other brands of glue hanging around and you’d like to experiment with them, go ahead and give them a try. And be sure to let us all know how your clay turns out. But before doing that, make up at least one batch with the Elmer’s Glue-All (you only need 6 fl oz for a quart of clay) so you’ll know what the clay is “supposed” to be like.
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Wow, this is really neat, I will be trying this out. I am just beginning Dan the paper mache man’s lessons, and this stuff should be amazing for adding detail.
How long does it remain usable, and how do you store it (if possible)
Greg
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Jonni Reply:
January 9th, 2010 at 7:36 am
I agree — Dan’s latest book has some really good ideas for creating forms and shapes, which can be used with any style, not just monsters. It would be fun to see what Dan would do with this stuff. I’m sure it would be imaginative.
I’ve kept the clay in a covered plastic container for up to a week, and it’s still easy to spread and model. As I mentioned in the video, the clay is not edible — and that seems to apply to fungi as well as people. I have not seen any mold appear on the clay, no matter how long it’s kept in the container, and it doesn’t sour the way flour paste does in a day or two. But still, I don’t suggest making up more than one quart (one recipe) at a time. That way you always have some fresh clay for your work.
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Hi, Found your website today and it is fascinating and very informative! I was beginning to wonder if there was a papier maché website that took the craft seriously, after trawling through horrible twee objects and ‘projects to get you started’ on some other sites. However, I do have a fairly crucial question for you. I assume you are in the States. I am in France, with fairly easy access to UK products, and I have never heard of Elmer’s Glue-All. Please can you tell me the technical details – what is the base – is it PVA or what? so that I can find the equivalent here or in the UK? Then I can let you know what it’s called over here, in case anyone else asks.
I used to do a fair amount of papier maché years ago, and decided to start again this year (one of my New Year Resolutions!)
I love the sound of the clay recipe, and it would be ideal for the sort of projects I have in mind.
Many thanks for such a good website.
Mags
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Jonni Reply:
January 9th, 2010 at 11:25 am
Hi Mags. Yes. Elmers Glue-All is a PVA glue, as I know (from one of your other comments) you’ve already discovered. But not all PVA glues act the same, so I suggest that you buy a small bottle of glue that you find in your local store, and see what happens. At my local WalMart, the “right” glue for the clay is found in the children”s craft section (and by the gallon at the hardware store).
I definitely hope you’ll let us know which brand works there in France. And if anyone else lives in a country other than the US, please chime in and tell us which glue works best. Also, do they call joint compound “joint compound” in other countries? Also, when you’re done with your first project, please share it with us!
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Jonni Reply:
January 9th, 2010 at 11:28 am
Oh – one more thing… If you’re looking for artists who take papier mache seriously, check out Monique Robert’s sculptures. I don’t know how she makes them, but I just ordered her book so I should find out soon.
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Hello,
We are working on a full-sized scaled sculpture of the caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland. We are making the structure out of chicken wire. I was wondering if the clay would mesh well and stick to the chicken wire. We may just do a few layers of the regular paper mache recipe then use the clay over the paper for the molded look. I liked your use of the carpenter’s glue with tint after sanding the paper. Any ideas or suggestions you would like to share? Thank you!
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Jonni Reply:
January 11th, 2010 at 10:31 pm
What a great project! The holes in chicken wire would be too large for the clay, but 1/4″ hardware cloth would work. So would your idea of putting on at least one layer of paper strips and paste, to give the clay something to hold on to. Lately I’ve been using joint compound thinned with Elmer’s Glue-All and a bit of acrylic paint for a home-made gesso in place of the colored glue, but if you’re looking for a slicker look, the tinted glue is nice. Also, if this is a project you’re doing with kids, remember that the paper mache clay is not edible. (I know they wouldn’t eat it, of course, but it does look a little like cookie dough…)
I sure hope you’ll take some photos as you build your caterpillar, and share them with us.
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Hi, I have been following your site for some time now and wanted to thank you for inroducing me to a media which actually produces the results I envision! Over the years I have tried many different forms of art and craft and none have ever really turned out how I had hoped until I found your site! I have finally found an inexpensive way to sculpt in my own living room!
Your paper clay recipe; can you tell me what the Linseed oil is for and if it is a vital or optional part of the recipe?
Thanks again,
Jo
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Jonni Reply:
January 13th, 2010 at 11:24 am
Hi Jo. I’m glad you like the site. The first time I read your comment I thought you said you had found a way to “sculpt your own living room.” I have an excuse, other than being dyslexic — I recently ran across a French website created by someone who really does just that. He calls his method of making papier mache furniture the “Schmulb” method. Check it out.
OK – back to what you were really talking about…
No, you don’t have to use the linseed oil, but I do suggest that you try it at least once. It does make the clay a little easier to work with, and it changes the texture or “feel” of the clay a little. You can get a tiny bottle at the art store, or buy the less expensive kind from the hardware store. A pint will last a long time. And, like all the ingredients in the clay recipe, you want to keep the container out of reach of children.
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Hi..I was trying get the instructions on how to make the paper mache clay recipe but I’m on dial-up, high speed isn’t avalailable in my area, and it wouldn’t download. It timed out. would it be possible to post brief written instructions? Thank you so much
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Jonni Reply:
January 14th, 2010 at 9:24 am
Hi Alice. I should have thought of that. I’ll post a printed version of the instructions below the video so everyone can see it. Thanks for the heads-up.
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Hi Jonni..thank you so much for the prompt answer to my question and the great site which gives us an affordable way to stave off cabin fever!
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thank you so much for your generous sharing of info and artist’s sites.
i would like to know if i can use old telephone book paper for your paper clay recipe?
thanks, elizabeth
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Jonni Reply:
January 16th, 2010 at 7:55 am
Hi Elizabeth. I have not tried any paper except toilet paper. The toilet paper is especially engineered to disintigrate as soon as it gets wet, so it won’t clog the sewer lines. Telephone book paper is probably designed to hold up to some abuse. You would probably need to soak it overnight or boil it, like traditional paper mache pulp recipes require, and even then I doubt you could get it very smooth.
Even though you won’t get recycling brownie points if you use a roll of toilet paper, you can still claim your sculptures are made partially from recycled paper if you use old newspapers (or telephone book paper) for the inside forms. And one roll of toilet paper will make a quart of clay, which is enough to cover a 12″ long animal sculpture with a layer 1/8″ thick. So it really isn’t very expensive.
All that said, if you do some experimenting with other types of paper, please let us know how it turns out.
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elizabeth kirkwood Reply:
January 16th, 2010 at 9:56 am
thanks, jonni, for the quick reply.
i am heading to the store now to get the rest of my supplies for your clay and
i’m also going to experiment with the telephone book paper and will let you know the results.
tks, elizabeth
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Hi! I was wondering, do you use the traditional method as a base? Do you use paper mache for the body, and just use the clay for fine details, or do you use the clay for an entire project?
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Jonni Reply:
January 16th, 2010 at 6:15 pm
I use a crumpled-paper and masking tape form under the clay. The paper mache clay is very strong, so no paper strips and paste are needed. See the frog and butterfly posts show how this is done. I hope to have more tutorials up soon, but my book project is keeping me busy at the moment.
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Hi- I was wondering about the dry time. I realize different sized sculptures would have different times, but do you have a rough guideline? ( If it was already mentioned, I missed it) And thanks for this recipe, my son has a project for school and didn’t seem keen about it until we found your clay site. -Thanks, Heidi
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Jonni Reply:
January 20th, 2010 at 8:51 pm
Hello, Heidi. I haven’t done any real scientific studies, but a thin layer — 1/8 to 1/4″ thick, should dry in two days if you put it in a warm spot. It will feel dry on the outside before it’s fully cured on the inside, so give it plenty of time. It will dry fastest if you put it over a heat register — but be sure you don”t put it too close to an electric heater because of the fire danger. When you push on any part of the sculpture there should be no “give” at all. If you build up extra clay for details, those areas may take longer to dry.
You also need to consider the fact that you need to stop applying the clay when you no longer have a dry spot to hang on to. Then you need to put the piece in a warm spot until the clay hardens enough, then finish covering the rest of the piece. You can usually hold the clay safely long before it’s completely dry,
If you add a very thin second layer, in order to add a texture, for instance, the second layer will usually dry faster than the first layer did.
Hope this helps, and that your son enjoys his project. You didn’t mention his age, so I’ll just remind you the clay is not edible.
And I also hope you’ll let us see his sculpture when it’s done.
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Hello Jonni, thanks so much for your wonderful review of my book “Papier Mache Design”. I’ve just looked at your ‘papier mache clay’ and am impressed! I will be using it as well for certain projects I will have on the go soon, thank you! I haven’t read through all the comments here on this page yet, but I’m looking forward to what people have to say about your recipe. I’m sure they are having a lot of fun with it!
Thanks for picking up my book and letting the rest of the world out there know what lies between the pages.
Cheers,
Monique Robert
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Hi,
I’m reading your suggestions in UK and I’m wondering what
“Jointing Compound” is? What would it normally be used for?
Is it a powder? paste? liquid?
Please advise.
Thank you,
Sally
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Jonni Reply:
January 22nd, 2010 at 9:46 am
I think this product is called Joint Filler in the UK. A reader is now experimenting with joint filler that she purchased in your country, and has promised to let me know how it turns out. My only concern is that the product available in my local Oregon hardware store contains Calcium Carbonate, while the product specs I found for a UK product contained another form of calcium called gypsum. These are very similar, but I don’t know if it will react the same way with the glue and form a nice smooth clay. If you (or anybody) tries joint filler with this recipe, please let me know how it turns out. It should be smooth, and should not form lumps.
Note to anyone who lives in any country other than the US — If you figure out what joint compound is called in your country, please let us all know!
Oh – and to finish answering your question, the product comes in a plastic tub, and looks a bit like plaster than has already been mixed with water. So-not a paste, exactly, and not a powder or liquid, either…
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Eunice Kahlke Reply:
February 26th, 2010 at 12:27 pm
In Germany joint compound is called Fugenmasse
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Jonni Reply:
February 26th, 2010 at 1:10 pm
Thank you so much, Eunice! In a few days I’ll try to compile all the international terms that readers have sent in. This is so useful.
Do you form up your creation like normal – with the newspaper and masking tape and then just layer this on the outside?
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Jonni Reply:
January 22nd, 2010 at 9:42 am
Yes, exactly! I’ll try to put together a short video soon to explain this more clearly. Basically, the clay replaces the paper strips and paste.
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Thank you for sharing this! I Love your work!
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Jonni Reply:
January 23rd, 2010 at 1:36 pm
You’re welcome, Julie. I’m glad you enjoy the site.
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My 4th grader is doing a school project that requires construction of an adobe and brick building. A friend recommended paper mache compound to create the look over heavy cardboard. Do you think the clay or traditional paste would work best? And what could be added to give the structure a greyish brown color?
Thank you!
[Reply]
Jonni Reply:
January 25th, 2010 at 7:51 pm
Hi Jennifer. The clay recipe would be easiest, because you’d just build cardboard buildings and then “plaster” them with the clay. When they dry hard, they would look very much like adobe. You can find iron oxide and other natural pigments at the hardware store, sold as cement colorants. Or you could color the clay with acrylic or tempera paints.
However, the ingredients in the clay and the dried pigments from the hardware store should not be eaten, so your students must all treat the materials with respect. As their teacher, do you think they’re old enough to use art materials that are not non-toxic? I don’t spend much time around kids, so I could use some advice about this particular safety issue. But, as long as the kids know you can’t eat the clay even though it looks like cookie dough, they should be fine.
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I am so excited. Can’t wait to make this. Starting fresh tomorrow morning.. Thank you so much. Love to try new recipes …Will post pic when I make my bunnies…Sounds like an easy and cheap recipe for PM clay but looks like and seems like its something I am interested in. Have you use this recipe in any molds??
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Jonni Reply:
January 25th, 2010 at 9:34 pm
I have tried the recipe in molds, and it tends to trap air underneath so it doesn’t come out with a smooth surface and details get lost. If you experiment, let us know how it turns out.
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Hi Jonni,
This morning I got the sudden urge to make paper mache bangles (thick, chunky bracelets). After searching google all day with no luck, I stumbled upon your amazing detailed and informative site. It has inspired me to attempt other sculptures and decorations as well. I am also very excited about your “paper mache clay” and I plan to use it instead of the conventional paper mache. Your creations are gorgeous, and your advice is the greatest. I just have one question, can i used duct tape or electrical tape instead of masking tape? Thank you so much, and I can’t wait to get started!
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Jonni Reply:
January 26th, 2010 at 11:56 am
I have not used other kinds of tape, but it should work. If you try it, please let us know how it turns out!
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Jonni
I am wondering whether the linseed oil you use is boiled or raw. They have both types at my local hardware store and I’m not sure which one to use.
Jacquie
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Jonni Reply:
January 26th, 2010 at 1:21 pm
The kind I use is boiled linseed oil, but only because it’s the only kind our small hardware store carries. The raw linseed oil should work just fine, but I haven’t tried it.
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Do you have to use the joint compound to make the clay? I don’t have any on hand but have tons of spackle. Will that work as a substitute? Was wondering if you had done that particular experiment already. Thanks!
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Jonni Reply:
January 29th, 2010 at 2:03 pm
I have not used spackle. I know it’s similar in composition to joint compound, but I don’t know how it will react with the glue. I suspect you will know shortly, and we would love to hear how it turns out!
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Jennifer Reply:
January 30th, 2010 at 3:42 pm
I ended up using a patching plaster (gypsum) from a dry mix instead of the spackle. This answers your UK problem. Just follow the directions on the package to mix with water and then your directions. My finished product looks just like your picture and felt just like Sculpey clay (if you have ever used that product). I’m going to get joint compound after the snow clears and make more to see the difference and check if I have a preference.
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Jonni Reply:
January 30th, 2010 at 5:21 pm
Thanks, Jennifer. It sounds like your clay is a bit firmer than the one that I get when I use joint compound. Do you like the way it works, when using it on your sculpture? I hope you’ll let us know how your project turns out.
Hi Jennifer,
Was wondering if I could use the paper mache clay for the details only and use newspaper strips over chicken wire for the base?
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Jonni Reply:
February 3rd, 2010 at 11:11 am
Yes, Tiffiny, you certainly could do it that way. Since you’re making a rather large sculpture, that would probably be faster.
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Hello Jonni!
Wonderful reading all the different questions and possible solutions! I teach high school art and do paper mache with my students. I am wondering if your recipe would work with shredded newspaper instead of toilet paper?
Thanks! and all the best always, Karena
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Jonni Reply:
February 7th, 2010 at 4:07 pm
The toilet paper is especially manufactured to instantly fall apart when it gets wet. This keeps our public sewers from getting clogged up. On the other hand, newspaper is manufactured to stay together with fairly rough handling, and it won’t fall apart into tiny bits without soaking it for a long time, or boiling it.
If you can get the paper turned into pulp, it would be worth trying it with this recipe. However, your finished clay will probably not be as smooth. If you do try it, please let us know how it turns out.
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Hi, Could you tell me, is the joint compound you use a powder or a paste?
In Australia it is called something different, I want to be sure it is the same product. -the one I can get here is a paste called joint finish.
Thanks.
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Jonni Reply:
February 8th, 2010 at 5:56 pm
Interesting–it’s called joint filler in the UK and joint compound in the US.
The material is mixed already, and is usually sold in a plastic tub. It looks a lot like plaster that has just been mixed with water, although it won’t get hard if you keep the lid on it. The powdered kind won’t work for this recipe. Also, don’t get the “fast setting” product, since it contains Portland cement and will harden in the bowl.
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What is the durability of your paper mache recipe? If I were to use it to texture something that would be used regulary (such as a piece of terrain) how would it hold up?
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Jonni Reply:
February 9th, 2010 at 12:15 pm
I don’t build sets for model trains, if that’s the type of terrain you’re talking about, so I don’t have any experience with the clay used that way. If you experiment with it, please let us know how it holds up.
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Thank you so much for sharing this recipe. I have been a papermaker for some time and have taught classes on it. I love to use various fibers for my work…but, wanted a less expensive clay form of the paper to use in more detailed work. Your recipe sounds like the answer. I will try it out as soon as I can get back home from my trip to visit family. And, I will post my creation. Thank you again, Pepper Mentz
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Jonni Reply:
February 10th, 2010 at 11:58 am
I Pepper — we look forward to seeing what you come up with. After checking your website, I know we can expect something colorful and lovely.
I tried to find your blog, by the way. Is it not up yet? The blog link didn’t work.
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Hey, thanks for the recipe. I was wondering if this recipe actually did create a product that was hard enough to drill through without cracking?
Thanks in advance!
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Jonni Reply:
February 14th, 2010 at 6:55 am
Hi Rahul. I believe you could drill a hole without cracking the surface of the piece. I haven’t tried it with a power tool, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. It may actually be easier to make the hole before the clay is completely dry – then you could use a Phillips-head screwdriver to make a hole, and there would be no possibility of cracking.
If you do some experiments with the clay, to see how well it holds up to various tools, please let us know.
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I completed my snow peep “heads on a stick” & they came out fantastic. I am soo proud of myself! Of course I owe a lot of credit to the ease of the paper clay…thank you so much for sharing the recipe w/ us Jonni. I have so many ideas to use it for.
I blogged about my heads & your recipe here, if you want to check them out. http://creatingmyselfcreatively.blogspot.com/2010/02/show-n-tell-friday.html
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Jonni Reply:
February 16th, 2010 at 2:04 pm
Hi Cami. Your project is really something to see! I love the way they turned out.
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Hi,
first of all: thank you for the recipe and the wonderful tutorials. At the moment I started the frog and also the rabbit. For the frog I didn´t used paper mache- I used a air-dry clay that I bought in Germany. Seems towork, at the moment I have to wait, cause it has to dry. But it looks good. The second try is the rabbit and I decided to give your paper mache clay a try and so today I bought all the things I need. It is a problem to buy Elmer Glue in Germany, so I used wood glue. It is also a problem to read about cups in a recipe, because in Germany recipes tells about l or weight. And then this mystical joint compound…
I searched for that with Google and try to translate it and I hope I found the right thing.
I´m not sure. Maybe it would be helpful when you write what it is normaly used for. The thing that I bought is normally used to fill the space between two sheetrocks.
I made the PM clay today and it cames out fine. And because the rabbit needs more then only some pieces of newspaper I used the clay for him. Now I have to wait til it is dry too.
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can u use something else then linseed oil for making paper mache clay
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Jonni Reply:
February 21st, 2010 at 7:50 am
Hi Khloe. I have not tried any other type of oil, but you could do some experiments. The linseed oil dries (that’s why it’s used in oil paint) so finding another oil with that property would be difficult. If you really don’t want to use it, try making some clay without it. It will still work–it just doesn’t feel quite as nice.
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Erika Reply:
February 21st, 2010 at 2:50 pm
I haven´t used ths oil and I think it would be smoothier with it.
And I searched for informations about the linseed oil and found a website:
http://www.paintmaking.com/oil_binders.htm
think that explain why it is good to use linseed oil and there are not many alternatives for that.
seems that there is not one realy good working alternative.
just my 2cents
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Jonni Reply:
February 21st, 2010 at 2:54 pm
I agree, Erika. Good points.
hello jonni, i am a homeschool mama and we are always looking for great good quality crafts to make and keep and i stumbled across your site today and am soooo excited. we want to use the clay, we are studying s. america and are going to make some s. american toys…i have a few questions 1. do you “need” a form underneath the clay or can you just use the clay itself?? i looked at your frog tutorial and read about the gesso?? 2. is this a needed step?…3. if i do need to use the forms what tape is best to use?? i would like to do this tomorrow or thurs ..thanks for your wonderful site…keep us the great work and may the Lord bless you
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Jonni Reply:
February 23rd, 2010 at 4:25 pm
You need a form because the clay won’t stand up by itself. I suppose you could try to manipulate a pile of paper mache clay into a shape, but I can’t imagine it working very well. I do use the clay to make really fine details, like a row of eyelashes, where the clay is very thin and has no backing, but these are only in small spots. However, I hope you won’t take my word for it – you may discover a whole new way to use the clay. (And if you do, please let us know!)
You could build up thick and thin layers on a flat cardboard to make a topical map, of course. Thicker parts will take longer to dry. You wouldn’t have to make mountains with crumpled paper and tape first, but your project will dry a lot faster if you do.
I use masking tape — the cheapest brands are best for this work, because they’re easier to tear. And you don’t need to use the gesso. I use it for most items that I want to have a nice smooth finish. But sometimes I don’t use gesso because I like the texture of the clay. You can use found objects to make specific textures (like the wire screening I used for elephant skin). So, the gesso issue is up to you.
Have fun with your project. You didn’t mention how old your kids are, so I’ll go ahead and remind you that the clay is not edible, even though it looks a bit like cookie dough.
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mama2six Reply:
February 23rd, 2010 at 4:36 pm
thanks jonni, for all your info…i have a mind flooded with ideas to do… they are 11 9 6 4 2 and baby due in june
boy.girl.girl.girl.girl love and peace. they will help me make it so i will remind them no to eat it 
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Hello, I just found your site and would like to thank you for all the wonderful information. I’ve been sculpting with a product called Creative Paperclay and although I love working with it it’s not cheap. I was hoping to find a recipe for a paperclay that I could use when building my armatures and then use the commercial brand for the detail layer. I’m wondering how your recipe compares, is it archival? Have you noticed any problems with mold since you use flour in your mix? I only ask because my collectors would be pretty upset with me if their pieces began to mold or crumble.
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Jonni Reply:
February 24th, 2010 at 11:05 am
Hi Tamara. I checked your website – lovely work. I totally understand your concerns about longevity, but I’m not sure I can give definitive answers. I just made up the paper mache recipe in my kitchen, and I don’t have a laboratory. I do know that I’ve kept the wet clay in it’s container for several weeks, with no mold appearing. This could never happen with flour and water paste, which begins to “come alive” almost as soon as the water is added to the flour. The Elmer’s glue seems to inhibit mold, and the calcium carbonate or gypsum in the joint compound might be helping, too. Maybe a university student could come up with a good set of tests (anyone want to volunteer?).
I have not done a pH test on the clay, but the high amount of calcium in the joint compound leads me to think there should be no problem with acids, although toilet paper is made with a variety of chemicals (I assume bleach is one of them) so there could be some reaction with the paint layer over time. I have not yet seen any problems yet, so I’m talking about “maybe” over a number of years.
Crumbling should never be a problem. The joint compound itself stays on walls for as long as the walls last. When the glue is added, the recipe turns into an air-dried polymer clay, reinforced with the cellulose from the toilet paper. You do need to completely seal your finished work to keep it from getting damp. I use a matte acrylic varnish for this purpose.
I know that commercial art supply companies have tests they use to determine how well their paints will hold up over a 100 years or so, and the tests are done in a short amount of time – they certainly don’t wait for 100 years to pass and then look to see if the paint has yellowed… So if anyone can give us some good ideas for how we can test this do-it-yourself art material, we’d love to hear your suggestions. In the meantime, I firmly believe that the paper mache clay is at least as durable as traditional paper mache.
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Hello, I also use creative paper clay, and have been getting recipes for homemade clay online. I have noticed that baby oil has been used in some of the Cold Porcelain Clay receipes. So I am going to try to use that in place of linseed oil your paper mache clay. I have also noticed that lemon juice, witchhazel, white vineger and bleach are used to prevent mold in other clay recipes – so I will test these out and let you know! Thanks so much for your recipe!
What did we ever do without the internet!!
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Jonni Reply:
February 25th, 2010 at 2:20 pm
Hi Shayla. We would love to hear how your experiments turn out. So far, I have not had any mold grow in my clay, and I’ve kept it in the bowl for up to two weeks. By that time, no matter how well I keep it covered the bits around the edges get dry, so I need to start over with a new batch.
I discovered this morning, by accident, that the clay also works if you forget to add the flour. It’s wetter, but it spreads faster over the form, and it still dries very hard. The more we use this stuff, the more we’ll learn about it.
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Hi,
I wanted to know if wall paper glue could be used instead of white glue.
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Jonni Reply:
February 26th, 2010 at 1:12 pm
I don’t think so. Most wall paper paste is made from some sort of starch, I think (but I’m not an expert, by any means). The Elmer’s Glue-All has a plastic in it that combines with the calcium in the joint compound, and this creates a very hard material once it dries. However, I obviously haven’t tried using wall paper paste, so I can’t say for sure. If you experiment, please let us know how it turns out.
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I love your kitty meowing in the background of your video.
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Jonni Reply:
February 26th, 2010 at 4:16 pm
Thanks Zernike. But it would be nice if she’d shut up once in a while. Noisiest cat I’ve ever lived with….
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I will experiment with it and let you know how it went. I would also like to know how many layers are necessary. I decided to make a small bowl for a tee candle.
I have been working with paper Mache for the last couple of years and have been very successful making sculptures for myself and those who have found an interest in my work. But I have never use joint compound and when I saw this recipe I decided to give it a try. Again, I will let you know how it went.
Thanks
I have added a photo of one of my sculptures.
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Jonni Reply:
February 27th, 2010 at 6:57 am
Lovely! Thanks for sharing the photo.
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Hello,
once more.
I told you that I tried your recipe and had to wait til it has become dry. So ma result:
At first- I think I used the false thing when searching for this joint compound.
I used something that I descirbed: “.. that I bought is normally used to fill the space between two sheetrocks….” and it works but it was readymade and smells from the chemical ingredient like hell or living next to a chemical labor. But it was ok to work wih, no bad reaction at my hands. And I think that I was looking for was the stuff that is used for the space between that I bought is normally used to fill the space between two tiles? Maybe you could explain what it is realy used for, think then I will get a hint to finde the right thing.. I hope.
So back to the work: the clay becames very heavy- I started to make a pig pig to and if needed I could use it a hammer
It is realy heavy. Now I have to sand that- the ugly part of this fun.
Maybe I will do that tomorrow, I hate sanding…
But I want to paint it, so I have to do.
And one more thing I found out:
PM is the stuff my parents always warned me:”.. you could become addicted!”
So many new ideas and not enough time.
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Jonni Reply:
February 28th, 2010 at 3:40 pm
Hi Erika. The joint compound is as you first described it – it’s used to smooth out the crack between pieces of wallboard. It comes pre-mixed in a plastic tub, but I’ve never bought any that smelled. It’s made primarily of calcium carbonate in this country, or another form of calcium called gypsum in some other countries. The grout that is used to fill cracks between tiles contains portland cement – which will harden before you can shape anything with it, and would be almost impossible to sand.
I hope you show us your project when it’s done.
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the paper mache clay looks cool! i can’t wait to try it but can you use boiled linseed oil?
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Jonni Reply:
February 28th, 2010 at 5:38 pm
Yes, either boiled or raw linseed oil works just fine.
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Hi Jonni,
This weekend was experiment weekend. I made a batch with wall paper glue and made a small bowl in which I will place a tea candle in it…So, end results are…I made it about a good 1/4 inch thick and it is very sturdy but It feels kind of chalky.The usual paper mache that I make has a wood like feel to it.
Oh, after I formed the bowl I had realised that I forgot the flour….What exactly is the flour for? Could that be why it feels chalky? I will try another batch with the glue. Thanks for the recipe.
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Jonni Reply:
March 1st, 2010 at 6:28 am
Hi Eunice. I’m afraid I can’t tell you why your clay feels chalky, since you made up your own recipe. It may be the way your wallpaper paste is reacting to the calcium in the joint compound. I’ve used several different types of glue, and the one that I found works every time is Elmer’s Glue-All. Since the joint compound by itself has no plastic in it, I’m assuming that it won’t hold up very well without Elmer’s.
The flour is just a filler, to make the clay a little more firm. You can leave it out. I suggest you try it both ways, and see which one you like best. An
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Hi Jonni: I am a teacher in Oregon and wonder if Elmer’s School Glue is basically the same formula as Elmer’s Glue All. Can you share the brand of joint compound you use? We put on an international festival each year, during which our students create clay head puppets, cardboard castles, African huts, papier mache masks, etc. Your paper mache clay recipe looks very promising for many of our projects. Thanks for sharing so generously your creative genius!
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Jonni Reply:
March 6th, 2010 at 11:29 am
Hi Elaine. As I told Monica, above (you two are on the same wave-length today) the Elmer’s School Glue won’t work for this recipe. Just as an aside, the Elmer’s Carpenters Glue doesn’t work, either. Just Elmer’s Glue All.
I have used joint compounds from Walmart and from the local Ace Hardware store. All brands are made primarily from calcium carbonate (sold as ground marble in art stores) plus various fillers. In other countries the basic ingredient may be gypsum, another form of calcium, but I’ve been told the local brands work just fine.
The only brand I’ve had problems with was from the local Bi-Mart store. It makes the clay just fine, but an additive in the formula prevents me from using the joint compound for my home-made gesso.
And in case you’re wondering, you can make home-made gesso with 1 tablespoon of joint compound (most brands) and 1 teaspoon of Elmer’s glue-all. Add a dab of white acrylic paint, if you want to, and mix well. I use this gesso on my sculptures because it’s so much easier to sand than the dry paper mache clay.
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can you use Elmer’s school glue?
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Jonni Reply:
March 6th, 2010 at 11:23 am
Two questions today about School Glue. And the answer is no – the Elmer’s school glue won’t work. Another reader tried it, and she said the texture of the clay turned out like “tuna fish.” I know you probably have gallons of the stuff around, but it won’t work for this recipe.
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I have been so excited by all the amazing things I have seen and read on your web site. Thank you so much for sharing!
I teach a homeschooled group of youngsters each week and was planning on using your paper mache clay for my maskmaking group. I made a huge amount ahead of time last night, thinking ahead, for my Wednesday class (it was Sunday yesterday). Now I read that it may snow on Tuesday night, which may in turn cancel Wednesday. Would it be possible to save this clay in the refrigerator, freezer, or cold garage? We have not had snow all winter and what do you know (the one week I prepare for class ahead of time and not the last minute).
What would you suggest?
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Jonni Reply:
March 8th, 2010 at 7:57 am
Hi Melissa. I’ve been able to keep my clay usable for several weeks just by keeping it in a plastic container with a fitted lid. I believe the joint compound may have a mold inhibitor in it (one more reason why the clay isn’t a good material for children who are young enough to eat their art materials).
We would all love to see the masks your group makes, so I hope you take a picture when they’re done, and share it with us.
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