Paper Mache Clay
I recently developed a new recipe for a sculptural material I call “paper mache clay.” This material is so easy to use and so easy to make that I now use it exclusively for all my paper mache sculptures.
It might be a bit more accurate to call this material “home-made air-dried cellulose-reinforced polymer clay,” but that’s way too hard to say (or type!), so for now, let’s just call it paper mache clay.
The first video below shows how to make the paper mache clay, and the second video answers some common questions that I’ve received from readers since I first developed this recipe. Below the videos you’ll find the recipe written out, and a few comments about how it’s used. (This recipe is the basis for my book “Make Animal Sculptures with Paper Mache Clay.”)
I usually make mine fairly thin, so it can be spread over an armature like frosting – but you can also vary the consistency, and make it thicker, like this, when you want more control over the modeling process. A very thin layer, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch is extremely strong, and it replaces the many layers of traditional paper strips and paste.
The clay dries extremely hard when applied in a very thin layer (1/8 to 1/4″ thick) and the clay dries much faster than traditional paper mache pulp. (And it only takes about 5 minutes to make).
Paper Mache Clay on Snow Leopard Sculpture
As you can see above, the clay can be modeled into fairly fine details. Using the clay for modeling feels much more intuitive than creating sculptures with paper strips and paste, and once the clay is dry it is a pleasure to paint.
The ingredients are inexpensive, and can be found at your local grocery store and hardware store. You will need:
- Cheap toilet paper (measure the wet paper pulp, and use 1.24 cups – some rolls contain more paper than needed)
- 1 cup Joint compound from the hardware store (get “regular,” not “fast set” or “light”.)
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-all
- 1/2 cup White Flour
- 2 tablespoons Linseed Oil
See the video below for details on making your clay. And if you try this recipe, please let us all know what you think of it–and also please share a photo of your finished work. We’d love to see how it comes out. (Can’t see the video? See the instructions printed below).
[Edit 2/12/2011 - At least one manufacturer (Dap brand) of joint compound has changed their formula, and this brand no longer works for paper mache clay. If you find that your clay seems "rubbery" instead of smooth and creamy, you may need to use a different brand of joint compound. Any other brand will work. ]
Making Your Paper Mache Clay
Ingredients:
1 roll of toilet paper
3/4 cup of white glue (Elmer’s glue-All)
1 cup of joint compound
1/2 cup white flour
2 tablespoons linseed oil
Tools:
You’ll also need a large bowl, (use one with high sides so you don’t splatter clay on your cupboards), an electric mixer, a measuring cup and a tablespoon measure. To keep t he finished clay from drying out, you’ll need an air-tight container. The recipe makes approximately 1 quart of paper mache clay.
Note about Toilet Paper:
Unfortunately, the people who make toilet paper don’t expect us to turn their product into great works of art, so they see no reason to include the kind of information that would make things a lot easier for us.
I use a brand called “Angel Soft,” in the “regular” 2-ply rolls. I buy it at my local Wal-Mart. Each roll contains approximately 1 1/4 cup of paper, which I measured by wetting the paper, squeezing out the water, and then firmly squishing it into a measuring cup.
Since brands differ so much, the first time you make this recipe you should take a few minutes to find out how much paper is in the first roll. Then adjust the recipe if your brand don’t contain about 1 1/4 cup of paper. Fortunately, this is not a chemistry experiment or rocket science–if your mixture contains a little more paper than mine, or a little less, your sculptures will still be stunning.
Step 1. Fill a high-sided bowl with warm water. Remove the toilet paper from the roll and throw it into the water. Push down on the paper to make sure all of it gets wet.
Step 2. Then pick up the paper and squeeze out as much water as you can. Pour the water out of the bowl and put your paper mass back in.
Step 3. You will want to break the paper into chunks about 1″ across. This will allow your mixer to move around the pieces and break them apart.
Step 4. Add all the ingredients to the bowl and mix, using an electric mixer. The mixer will pull the fibers of the toilet paper apart and turn it into pulp. Continue to mix for at least 3 minutes to make sure all the paper has been mixed in with the other ingredients. If you still see some lumps, use a fork or your fingers (with the mixer turned off!) to break them apart, and then mix some more.
Your paper mache clay is now ready to use. It will look a bit like cookie dough—but don’t eat it!
If you don’t plan to use your clay right away, place it in an airtight container to keep it from drying out. The clay should stay usable for 5 days or more, if you keep it covered. The recipe makes about 1 quart.






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Hi, Jonni! I love your website with a passion. I’m fifteen, and I have been doing art for as long as I can remember. Sculpture has always appealed to me as supposed to 2D work, so paper mâché is one of my favorites! I’d been blending up newspaper, glue, and water to use as a kind of putty for details, but this recipe is ridiculously efficient compared to my old method. Thank you so much!
Hi Larkin. I’m glad you’re having fun with your sculptures. For some reason I couldn’t get onto your facebook page – is there any chance that you could upload a photo of one or two of your pieces here so we can see them?
Sure! I’ll get some pictures and comment again with them.
Hi Jonni,
Could I use vegetable oil instead of linseed oil. This stuff looks awesome. I can’t wait to make it.
I believe someone has used olive oil instead of linseed oil. I think I would just leave it out, though – the linseed oil has very different properties than most vegetable oils. That’s why it’s used by oil painters and cabinet makers. But the boiled linseed oil does contain chemicals that concern some people. Fortunately, the clay recipe works just fine without it.
HI! I love your website. I am 8 years old and homeschooled. I am going to try your paper mache clay. I love love love LOVE your animals !
Thank you for all your recipes i am using this week.
Gosh – thanks! Have fun creating your own animals.
Whoa! A budding artist! So cool to see kids getting involved in crafts like this. Payton Peevyhouse I hope you’ll post some pictures of what you create so we can all see it! Good luck!
Rich
Jonni,
My sense is that Monster Mud would be less likely because it has the fabric backing supporting it along with whatever armature it is placed over (for me that’s typically been wood and chicken wire). Once painted and sealed it becomes a very durable item.
Now one year we had some horrific windstorms whip through and 3 times in one day my Grim Reaper was knocked about pretty harshly. A crack did appear in the shoulder area of the arm that holds the lantern, but it was a relatively simple fix to apply more MM and repaint.
As much as I love my paper clay creations, I’m not sure they would hold up quite as well to a similar buffeting. Again, because the MM is infused through, in and around the fabric, I think it creates a more durable coat. I’ll add the caveat though this is just a subjective opinion without any scientific basis behind it.
Funny, but until this moment, I’ve never actually thought of using MM on small projects since I’m so used to using it on life-sized ones. I guess that is going to have to go on my list of experiments to try!
Rich
Yes, I might do the same. I’ve never tried MM because I don’t do really big sculptures. But I do like the fact that the burlap is in there holding things together. It might also be interesting to use the MM to get a piece covered and solid quickly, and then go back over it with the PMC for finer details. Hmmm….
It really is a version of your paper towel technique. The plaster being the ‘mud’-like compound, and the glue being the paint-like compound (or actually I think the paint is technically functioning as a glue-like compound), and the shop towels are your ‘cloth’.
Keep in mind, monster mud is comparatively much heavier when dry, tho. I did a small (~ 6-8″) monster mud with burlap figure last year when I was testing ideas and recipes. I used burlap, and it came out pretty interesting … but much heavier than paper mache. I might look at the idea again when thinking about making sculpture bases … (since I want those to be slightly heavier) … but for me, lightweight sculpture is part of the goal.
I agree, compared to paper mache MM is heavier (particularly when initially applied), but using old sheets compared to burlap does change the composition a bit. Perhaps because I’m used to working in the medium with large figures, I find the cloth base much, much lighter when dry.
There’s a reason there’s a phrase “paper thin.”
The materials being used with MM are much thicker, thus, as I mentioned, I think one of the benefits is a stronger structure.
And I don’t believe the same level of detail is possible with MM as can be achieved with PM (though as I also noted, I haven’t tried it on a smaller level using “strips” of cloth). But in combination with paper clay I think on the right project the two could make a terrific pairing.
Then again, checking out the PM creations of Dan Reeder who uses cloth strips suggests perhaps it is possible in the hands of the right artist (that not being me…LOL!). While he’s using a PM paste instead of MM, it’s not such a stretch to see the same application in the latter.
Rich
Yes, Dan does some amazing things with those old sheets. In the spirit of experimentation, have you ever tried using plaster of Paris in place of the joint compound with the latex paint, to get a faster set? Or, does the standard recipe set quickly enough on it’s own, so that would be a silly thing to do? (I guess I’ll have to do some experiments today. I seem to have a long list of things to try while I wait for more supplies to arrive in the mail. My chimp is coming along very slowly. But I am working on him every day – not much progress to show for it, but I’m learning a lot.)
B, I think the weight might actually appeal to me. I like a sculpture to feel a bit more substantial, without getting so heavy that I can’t lift it. I think I’ll head to the store today for some burlap, and give it a try.
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