Paper Mache Clay
I recently developed a new recipe for a sculptural material I call “paper mache clay.” This material is so easy to use and so easy to make that I now use it exclusively for all my paper mache sculptures.
It might be a bit more accurate to call this material “home-made air-dried cellulose-reinforced polymer clay,” but that’s way too hard to say (or type!), so for now, let’s just call it paper mache clay.
The first video below shows how to make the paper mache clay, and the second video answers some common questions that I’ve received from readers since I first developed this recipe. Below the videos you’ll find the recipe written out, and a few comments about how it’s used. (This recipe is the basis for my book “Make Animal Sculptures with Paper Mache Clay.”)
I usually make mine fairly thin, so it can be spread over an armature like frosting – but you can also vary the consistency, and make it thicker, like this, when you want more control over the modeling process. A very thin layer, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch is extremely strong, and it replaces the many layers of traditional paper strips and paste.
The clay dries extremely hard when applied in a very thin layer (1/8 to 1/4″ thick) and the clay dries much faster than traditional paper mache pulp. (And it only takes about 5 minutes to make).
Paper Mache Clay on Snow Leopard Sculpture
As you can see above, the clay can be modeled into fairly fine details. Using the clay for modeling feels much more intuitive than creating sculptures with paper strips and paste, and once the clay is dry it is a pleasure to paint.
The ingredients are inexpensive, and can be found at your local grocery store and hardware store. You will need:
- Cheap toilet paper (measure the wet paper pulp, and use 1.24 cups – some rolls contain more paper than needed)
- 1 cup Joint compound from the hardware store (get “regular,” not “fast set” or “light”.)
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-all
- 1/2 cup White Flour
- 2 tablespoons Linseed Oil
See the video below for details on making your clay. And if you try this recipe, please let us all know what you think of it–and also please share a photo of your finished work. We’d love to see how it comes out. (Can’t see the video? See the instructions printed below).
[Edit 2/12/2011 - At least one manufacturer (Dap brand) of joint compound has changed their formula, and this brand no longer works for paper mache clay. If you find that your clay seems "rubbery" instead of smooth and creamy, you may need to use a different brand of joint compound. Any other brand will work. ]
Making Your Paper Mache Clay
Ingredients:
1 roll of toilet paper
3/4 cup of white glue (Elmer’s glue-All)
1 cup of joint compound
1/2 cup white flour
2 tablespoons linseed oil
Tools:
You’ll also need a large bowl, (use one with high sides so you don’t splatter clay on your cupboards), an electric mixer, a measuring cup and a tablespoon measure. To keep t he finished clay from drying out, you’ll need an air-tight container. The recipe makes approximately 1 quart of paper mache clay.
Note about Toilet Paper:
Unfortunately, the people who make toilet paper don’t expect us to turn their product into great works of art, so they see no reason to include the kind of information that would make things a lot easier for us.
I use a brand called “Angel Soft,” in the “regular” 2-ply rolls. I buy it at my local Wal-Mart. Each roll contains approximately 1 1/4 cup of paper, which I measured by wetting the paper, squeezing out the water, and then firmly squishing it into a measuring cup.
Since brands differ so much, the first time you make this recipe you should take a few minutes to find out how much paper is in the first roll. Then adjust the recipe if your brand don’t contain about 1 1/4 cup of paper. Fortunately, this is not a chemistry experiment or rocket science–if your mixture contains a little more paper than mine, or a little less, your sculptures will still be stunning.
Step 1. Fill a high-sided bowl with warm water. Remove the toilet paper from the roll and throw it into the water. Push down on the paper to make sure all of it gets wet.
Step 2. Then pick up the paper and squeeze out as much water as you can. Pour the water out of the bowl and put your paper mass back in.
Step 3. You will want to break the paper into chunks about 1″ across. This will allow your mixer to move around the pieces and break them apart.
Step 4. Add all the ingredients to the bowl and mix, using an electric mixer. The mixer will pull the fibers of the toilet paper apart and turn it into pulp. Continue to mix for at least 3 minutes to make sure all the paper has been mixed in with the other ingredients. If you still see some lumps, use a fork or your fingers (with the mixer turned off!) to break them apart, and then mix some more.
Your paper mache clay is now ready to use. It will look a bit like cookie dough—but don’t eat it!
If you don’t plan to use your clay right away, place it in an airtight container to keep it from drying out. The clay should stay usable for 5 days or more, if you keep it covered. The recipe makes about 1 quart.
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Hi Jonni! I am really enjoying your site…so much great information! I used a paper tube with wire armatures attached and wrapped with paper and masking tape, then applied your paper clay recipe to create a “wishing tree” as a centerpiece at an upcoming charity event. I have let the paper clay harden for a couple of days. I want to paint it but would like to sand it a bit first. I think keeping some of the rough texture will be more realistic, but as a large portion of the project involved applying the clay to thin branches, it’s not as smooth as I would like. I have your gesso recipe and am prepared to use that as you suggested in your responses above, but I wanted to double-check with you about the order of steps first. As I understand it, the gesso gets applied, dries, then lightly sanded/smoothed with a damp sponge, THEN I can apply colored acrylic and seal with water-based verathane? I have attached some pics so you can see what I am dealing with
The tree will eventually have some leaves and little birds nesting, as well as some heart-felt wishes from the ladies at the table (this is a fundraiser for under-privileged children). Thank you in advance for your assistance and for providing such a wonderful resource for professionals as well as us novices!
The tree really came out nice.
Hi Jonni! I wasn’t sure where to post this so feel free to move it wherever you like!
I was wondering if there was a particular video that showed how you model the finer details like the eyes, mouths, noses, and small toes and such. I would like to watch you do it and see the tools, tips, tricks and techniques that you use. I am using your clay on one of my sculptures now and really like it but I wish I would have practiced on something smaller first lol!
I bought your first book and love it! Can’t wait for the mask book to come out!
Thanks!!
Hi Skwirl. I have never put together a close-up video of the details. It does sound like a good project, though. For now, you might want to do a search on YouTube for sculpting noses, eyes, etc. There’s some incredible videos out there.
The new book should be available by Monday, if all goes well. I’ll definitely announce it when it shows up on amazon.com. I got my review copy, and although I now wish I’d said a few things differently (is it every really “perfect?”) I think it looks pretty good. I can’t wait to see what you think.
Thanks for the suggestions and hope you decide to make that a project of yours!
I’m sure I will love the new book. We always have those coulda-shoulda-woulda’s! But somehow it all turns out just fine if anyway.
I saw your recipe for clay and I’m impressed. I first saw the giant 3′ elephant on you tube that led me to this site. I started a rinoceros at I believe possibly 1/2 scale. Just with the woob structure alone it’s probably 100 lbs or better. I made my first batch and because I put too much flower, I had to put extra of everything else. It was too thick for detail so I added extra fluid that was in the joint compound and added more linseed oil. Now I think it’s good but how long can I expect it to dry? I’m a muralist learning sculpture.
H Terry. The drying time depends on how thickly the material is applied, the temperature of the air, and the humidity. So, in other words, it’s hard to say. Thinner layers are better than thick layers, even if you end up adding another layer on top. You want your paper mache clay to be dry all the way through to prevent the eventual possibility of mold.
Hi I am hosting a family reunion next summer and need to make “cow patties” for the cow patty toss. Do you think your recipe will work for this? Thanks
It depends on how the patties are going to be tossed, and at whom. The clay dries really hard, so they could hurt if aimed in the wrong direction. Otherwise, you could make some good Frisbees with it.
Hi Jonni, I just found your site and am as excited as everyone else to start using this formula.
Does the DAP brand joint compound make it rubbery yet still solid enough to be stable once it dries? or is it completely unusable?
I am very interested in working with a more rubber like textured product, something that when you touch it has a little ‘give’ to it instead of a hard shell.
Unusable. It turns the goo into hard rubber balls the instant the ingredients come in contact with each other. There is no give to it at all. Maybe there’s a way to make it work, but I haven’t found one. Let us know if you do.
thanks for the wonderful recipe, i am having so much fun!
I can tell! She’s lovely.
Let’s say that I’m not putting this piece outside. I’m just wondering about sealing it to keep it from rotting or getting moldy since your recipe calls for flour. I know that I will have to make sure that the clay is totally dry before I move on to the mosaic part. Again, thanks for letting me run my idea past you.
Many of my mosaic pieces are kept outside. I seal the grout to keep them safe from moisture. I really haven’t thought about this one. Does it matter what I seal the clay with? If I use a clear irodized glass I will need to paint the clay white. Will that paint be enough of a sealer or do I need to use a varnish or polyurethane coat on top of that? If I use a solid irodized glass than I don’t need to paint the clay, but probably need something else to seal it…correct? Thanks Jonni, for your help. This is sort of uncharted territory for me too.
I wish I could answer your questions, but I’m afraid I don’t have any experience with using the clay outside. I think you’re going to be our resident expert as soon as you get it all figured out.
Hi,
I’m a glass person…glass mosaics to be exact. I’m currently working on a 3-D project of a unicorn. It’s quite large, almost the size of a small pony. I have a topiary form that I’m using for the body. I’ve been reserching paper mache recipes to cover the form and add details for the eyes, nostirls, mane and tail. I like your clay recipe because it will give the form strength and allow me to add details all in one step. The topiary form is made of wire. Actually it looks like chicken wire. Would you suggest that I cover the form with something like masking tape in order to make the clay stick? Do I need to do anything special to the clay before I start glueing my glass mosaic pieces to it? Do I need to worry about covering the clay with any type of varnish before I start glueing glass to it? Do I need to worry about mold if I’m covering it with glass?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Pam. I’ve never done any mosaics, so I’m probably not the best person to ask. The clay will fall through the holes in the wire form, so you’ll need to cover it with something. Masking tape should work, or use paper mache strips and paste. The paper mache clay should be sealed at some point, to prevent water from getting in. Will it be left outside?
Hi there! i was just wondering, what brand of joint compound do you use? thanks!
I like the Sheetrock brand, and it’s available almost everywhere.
Hi Jonni!
I want to use this clay as a replacement for bondo on my costume prop ( its a dome ). I just wanted to know if I could sand it like normal paper mache strips. Thank you!
PS I love your elephant paper mache creations
Yes, Vivian, you can sand the paper mache clay. It’s harder than normal paper mache, though. I make it a bit easier for myself by smoothing it as much as I can when it’s still wet, using the flat side of a slightly damp knife, or placing plastic wrap over it and smoothing it down through the plastic. When it’s dry I add a coat or two of gesso, which is easier to sand. (Be sure to use a mask to keep the dust out of your lungs.)
Hi Jonni,
I wanted to thank you for sharing your paper clay recipe. I have made a couple boxes out of paper mache with your clay as the last layer. Today I made up another batch of clay to finish the life-size cat I’m working on.
I’m not sure why my clay ends up being so sticky. I measured everything for this last batch and it was quite sticky. I use my hands to apply it so the stickiness isn’t really a problem. A bowl of water to dip my hands in while applying it does the trick.
I soaked my toilet paper in water, squeezed out the water and dropped chunks of wet TP into my blender to break it up. A little at a time and measuring it as it came out of the blender. The first time I made the clay, I tore the TP into little pcs. The blender did a much better job of making the pcs very small. And it was much quicker using the blender as well. I put the blender on the ‘grate’ setting. I suspect a food processor would accomplish this just as well as the blender did.
Here is a picture of the biggest box I made with your clay recipe. It is 10 inches square. I use it to hold the newspapers for recycling.
Again, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us!
Donna
The box is lovely, Donna. For the stickiness issue, I’m not sure exactly why that sometimes happens. I never use my fingers to spread the goo, so I may not be as aware of the relative stickiness that some people are. You might try using corn starch instead of flour next time, to see if it helps. (If you do find something that works, please let us know.)
Hi!
Great tip on the recipe but I keep wondering why do you use the linseed oil for?
I once tried to make a paste out of newspaper paper, wood glue and plaster but it didn’t worked though … Too long to dry and not at all hard in the end!
For my dolls I use a paste called “dass” but it costs money though, so from time to time I try to see what’s “new” and came across your site!
Thanks you
The linseed oil changes the consistency just a little, so it’s easier to smooth the goo over an armature. I also think it makes the clay get a little harder when it dries. But you don’t need it. The recipe probably won’t get as smooth as the Das clay, but you may be able to use it for some parts of your dolls. (I just checked your site – you do beautiful work).
Hello,
Can you use another kind of oil besides linseed? I only find it in small bottles at the art store for a fairly stiff price. It would add up if I made very much clay.
Thanks,
Tyra
Tyra, you can leave out the oil altogether if you want. The clay will still work just fine. I use the boiled linseed oil from the hardware store, but it does contain chemicals that make some people nervous. Or you can substitute glycerine from the drug store. The cheapest way to go is to just leave it out.
So I wound up burning up the motor in the handheld electric mixer (it wasn’t a very sturdy one to begin with). That left me with slightly lumpy clay. Since I was making a cat mask, it actually worked well as it made it look more like fur instead of being almost smooth. I can’t wait until it’s dry and I can paint it. Thanks for the recipe, Jonni! This is fun!
Rebecca, did you measure the paper? I’ve never burned out a motor on my mixer, even though I only own the cheapest one you can get.
I’m glad it worked out anyway. Will you post a photo when it’s done?
Hi,
I found your site tonight while searching for paper mache ideas…then became sidetracked and somehow ended up here.
I am making a mask using the aluminum foil method (double folded foil pressed to face to get contours for mask and then removable from finished mask). My first effort ended in a lopsided grotesque version of a face with almost no contours, so am attempting this again. I like your idea above of the paper mache clay very much, but would it work on an aluminum foil mold? The newspaper strips adhered well to the foil, but in the end there were almost no contours left.
Thanks for the wonderful information you have for everybody!
For the masks I made for my new book I made an aluminum foil/duct tape form, as you describe, and then added plaster gauze on the inside so the form doesn’t flatten out. Then you have something solid to work on. I’m using modeling clay to form features, and using it as a positive mold. (I’m using a plaster/glue paste and paper shop towels instead of the paper mache clay, since the modeling has already been done). If you put the paper mache clay over just foil, I think you’d lose the shape just like you did with the paper strips and paste.
You can see the masks that will be in the book here, here and here, to get an idea of what you can do with this method.
Hi,
I would like to say 1st of all how helpful and inspiring your web site and work is. I am definately going to purcase some books of yours.
My question to you is about the paper mache clay ingredients, you say you use joint compound. does this have asbestos in it? i think it use to years ago but is this still the case? the concern for this is that i know that i will be sanding most of my work
Thank you in advance
Michelle
Asbestos isn’t listed on the ingredients of the tub I’ve got here at the house, but I can’t really say for sure that it isn’t in there. I don’t know the labeling regulations. There are warnings that you need to use a mask when you sand, because you don’t want the dust in your lungs. That’s always good advice, I think.
Hi! Thanks so much for your recipe! I make clock bodies and recently changed from my recipe to yours and it’s wonderful! Some of my clocks are grandmother and grandfather sized so they need to be strong. ..this works great! I wanted to comment on the problem of mould. I don’t have my pulp mould on me since I substituted calcium carbonate for a filler rather than flour which is basically food and can rot. What do you think? I also sometimes put in ground up marble (my brother is a marble artist) and sometimes other stone like sandstone for strength. I SO appreciate your recipe though. It’s a huge breakthrough for me.
Dixie, I’m so glad it works well for you. And the calcium carbonate idea is good – I can see why it would help if you build paper mache in humid areas.
Do you have a website? I would love to see your clocks.
Hi ! I recently came across your paper pulp recipe. I LOVE it! I was using one that I developed with shredded paper, linseed oil, glue and calcium carbonate along with a few other things. It worked well but this is much smoother and easier frankly. I make clock bodies mostly but I also make cupboards and other things out of this. So I need the material to be very strong and long lasting. I also make my “skin” about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick for durability. I recently substituted your recipe for mine on a clock and I like it much better. It is smoother and easier to apply; but just as strong! Many of my clocks are grandmother and grandfather sized. I wanted to comment on the mould problems that some people are having. I just substituted calcium carbonate with flour; don’t use food and I don’t think it will rot will it? I haven’t had a problem with it in any case. Thanks! Dixie
Hi, Jonni. I have purchased all the materials I need to get started, and I can’t wait to start mixing my paper clay. I have a question that I didn’t think of earlier: If I am using a 16-gauge wire armature, will the clay stick to it if I cover it with tape first? I want thin arms and legs on my figure, so I don’t want to use anything too bulky to cover the wire. And if I do cover it with tape, is it better to use masking tape, or something more pliable like medical adhesive tape. Thanks!
Hi Fern. If you wrap the wire with tape, the clay should stick. It’s a little tricky to get it smoothed over the wire, so it helps if you put on some clay and then cover it with some plastic wrap and smooth it through the plastic. This video shows me putting the clay over dragon fingers (I think – it’s been a while since I made it).
Jonni, I love your clay and have used it on a couple projects. One I finished for holiday presents but the project I did before that remains unfinished as I got discouraged when sanding it. I am making large crayons for a puppet show that I have been dreaming for years. The length of the crayons will be cardboard carpet tubes but the tips I am making out of your clay layered over a poster board form that is supported by a styrofoam form. I started to sand it and it is so hard that hand sanding was taking so long. Can you tell me what you use for sanding? Looking at all your pieces, I love the texture you end up with, smooth but it still has a bit of texture to give it a lot of character. What would I use for large smooth surfaces and then for getting in between all those details you have in your pieces? Really appreciate all the information you so freely share with us. I couldn’t take pictures to share with you of the gifts I made for the holidays because I didn’t have a working camera at the time. But I got one for a holiday gift so I look forward to being able to share projects in the future. Thanks for your wonderful website and all you share with us. Cathy
Hi Cathy. I try to smooth the clay as much as possible when it’s still wet. You can use the side of a slightly damp knife to smooth it, or lay a piece of plastic wrap over it and smooth the clay through the plastic. When it’s dry I cover it with at least one layer of home-made gesso (recipes here) and when that’s dry I sand it or wet-sand with a slightly damp sponge.
I hope this helps.
I’m lazy, and don’t want to read all the comments, te he, do you suppose I could use this with dryer lint? I’ve been saving it to make paper, but don’t have a screen yet…
I have no idea. You’d have to give it a try and find out. Let us know how the experiment works out.
Jonni, I have been searching for a recipe for paper clay, and when I found yours I knew it was the one I wanted to try first. I have never used paper clay before, although I do paint, and I would like to try making dolls and figurines using it. My question is: Can it be sanded after it dries thoroughly?
Yes, it can be sanded. I usually try to apply it as smooth as I can, and then add a coat of gesso after it’s dry. The gesso is softer, so it’s easier to sand, or wet-sand with a damp sponge.
I would like to use this recipe to make paper mache pumpkins- one of which I hope to cut doors out of and turn in to a Cinderella-type carriage! I am wondering how easily I will be able to cut through this particular recipe after drying, or should I plan on scoring the places I will be cutting out or attempting to avoid putting clay in those areas at all? (not sure how “clean” that would look.
Thank you so much!
Becky, the clay does dry quite hard, but how easily it cuts will depend on how thickly you apply the clay. Scoring it actually sounds like a good idea.
I hope you’ll let us see it when it’s done.
Hi, I would like to make 2 toadstools with your recipes. I have a lovely picture to copy. You have given me an idea with the giraffe neck as to how to make the stems a bit bent like my picture. Thanks for your recipe, I am going to try it. Do you have any suggestions for these toadstools. Thanks, Margaret (South Africa)
Hi Margaret. We seem to be getting a lot of visitors from South Africa recently. My nephew recently visited your country, and he had a wonderful time.
It sounds like you have the toadstool all figured out. The round part on top will be the challenge, but you could make that with a circle of cardboard for the flat bottom, and with crumpled paper and masking tape to round out the top. I hope you’ll post some photos of your project when it’s done.
I just love your work! Thank you so much for the recipe, I will try it this weekend. Before I do though, I was wondering how do you seal the finished piece so that it lasts and stays strong?
I usually use a matte acrylic varnish. The clay is extremely hard when it dries, so there’s no worries about strength. You do want to seal it, though, and any varnish should work just fine.
Hi,
I’d love to try this!
Do you happen to know what joint compound I could buy in the UK?
I have know idea how to describe it at my hardware shop.
Many thanks!
Readers have told me that it’s called “joint filler” in the UK. Tell the guy at the hardware store that it’s for walls.
this recipe basically inspired my art project, and it turned out really well. Thanks so much! It was a little hard to find joint compound, but it was definitely worth using the recipe.
This is a picture of the finished project, and basically every part on the pink lady has the clay on it.
Very nice, Sharon. Is she a puppet?
No, I wanted her to be in a fixed position but I was styling her after a jim- henson type style, I’m glad I conveyed it!
I’m a teacher and we are going to make the dragons. How much of the clay will I use for each student do you think? I was thinking that one recipe might make two dragons. Does that sound right?
Thanks
Janel
Yes, that sounds about right. Of course, it depends on the size of the dragons.
I hope you’ll upload a photo of the dragons when they’re done.
I was so excited to find your reciept for paper mache, I ran out and bought everything….however I am not sure I got the correct joint compound. I got a big bag of powder stuff. I didn’t get the tubs of premix/wet joint compound. Is there anyway to use the powder? I thought I could/can just mix it up to make my own “wet” compound. And if/when I do projects with larger groups of friends it would be cheaper.
Thanks for a wonderfull site!
Athene, you can use the powdered form if it isn’t the fast-setting kind. Just add water and mix according to the package directions. You may even be able to use the kind with cement in it, (it will be called “5 minute” or “20 minute” joint compound. Check the label). However, you’ll need to do one experiment first to see how quickly it sets up with all the other ingredients added. It may be faster or slower than the label shows. Also, never rinse out a fast-setting joint compound in your sink, because the cement will harden under water, in you pipes. Not a good thing.
I knew not to rince anything in a sink-kids at school made that mistake in art class, not fun to clean out the pipes…I don’t think that will be a problem, I am going to use disposable containers to store any extra in for a day or 2, and I usuall use newspaper to clean containers out, then a moist papet towel…
Thank you for letting me know the powder will work. I have enought stuff to make a lot of test batches. I made sure that I had a non cement compound, and that it has a long working time. We do a lot of home remodeling, so I made sure I got stuff that will take a while to set up. I would rather wait an extra day or few days for it to dry then have it set up to fast to use the stuff.
Thanks again, great site, and great ideas.
I made a paper mache pulp from computer paper and the mixture turned out very nice. I put the mixture on a metal bowl witch i am drying in front of a fan. I oiled the bowl but didn’t put any plastic wrap over it. Will the bowl be okay?
I don’t know if the clay will stick tight to the bowl or not. It will dry on the outside first, and stay damp on the side towards the bowl longer. You might want to check it occasionally to see if it’s sticking. It might also crack a little if the bowl doesn’t have any give to it – the clay does shrink just a bit when it dries.
Hi, I just wanted to say I love your site, and thank you for sharing your recipes and helpful tips.
I’m very keen on trying your paper clay recipe, and just have a few questions on it.
I’m making small doll like figures, and have tried the traditional layering of paper strips method, but it doesn’t seem to have the finish I want, like the finish when I use polymer clay (clay these days is too expensive for me).
Question 1: How much time do I have before the clay sets, on such a small scale project?
(My figures are about 6 to 8 inches, with an egg shaped body.)
Question 2: On the “Linseed Oil”, what kind do I get? I keep seeing ones that say “Boiled” or “Raw” on the label. Does it matter which one?
Question 3: What type of flour do I use? Bleached or Unbleached?
Thank you for your time, and I look forward to your reply.
Sincerely, Asher E.
Asher, you will want to give your dolls at least two days to dry. A small fan set in front of them will really speed things up. The danger is assuming they’re dry when they feel dry, because they may still be damp on the inside.
I use the boiled linseed oil. If you’re concerned about the chemicals, you can use glycerin instead, or just leave it out. And you can use either bleached or unbleached white flour. To get the really smooth finish you’re looking for, you’ll probably want to use several coats of gesso over your dry paper mache clay, which you can either sand or smooth out with a damp brush or sponge.
Thank you very much for your advise. I can’t wait to start sculpting with the clay!
This is not from my experience, since I am a newbie, but on another website recipe, powdered laundry starch was used in place of oil. I guess you mix it according to the package instructions before adding to the paper clay, and it is supposed to give the clay the slipperiness necessary for getting a smooth surface.
Interesting idea – I’ll give it a try someday. It would be safer for children, for sure.
Hi, I am making a topo map of a very mountainous area out of multiple layers of foam core board. I would like your recipe for the frosting, as I have a lot of very fine detail. Thanks, Nancy
Hi Nancy, have you tried using the paper mache clay recipe, on this page? You might also want to use the home-made gesso recipe, on this page.
I just made the paper mache clay recipe. It is rather thick for the project. What ingredient/s from your recipe do I use to thin it to a more frosting like consistency? Thank you, Nancy
Nancy, it could be one of three things. You may have squished out more water than I normally do (it’s impossible to measure), in which case you could add a tablespoon or so of water. Or your joint compound might be thicker than the tub I used when I made up the recipe. Even within the same brand there seems to be more or less water in the mix. In that case, you could still use a bit more water to make it spread more easily.
If you added more paper, though, you would want to thin it out by adding a bit more of everything else.
I hope this helps.
thanks Jonni, The project is now in the works. So glad to have found your recipe! Nancy
Hi Jonni,
I’d like to try this method with my fifth-grade students, but I’m wondering if there are any health concerns with the joint compound or the linseed oil. They won’t try to eat the stuff, but I’m assuming that you use your bare hands and I don’t know if there is a concern that the kids could absorb some toxic chemicals through their skin.
Thanks,
Max
Max, you should definitely read the labels on these products. I don’t put my hands in the clay myself, since it’s easier to spread over the armature using a knife. But some people do. The joint compound can dry out your skin if you swim in it for very long, and you don’t want the dust from sanding to get in your lungs. (I put a layer of gesso over the dried clay and “sand” with a damp sponge).
For the linseed oil, I’d leave it out. You don’t really need it, and it does contain chemicals. The safe thing is just to leave it out.
Good luck with the project. I hope you’ll show us what your students made when they’re done.
I think you have just solved a problem for me!!! I found your website through a friend’s friend’s blog. My boyfriend wanted my cousin (a soapstone carver who also works in other stone and clay) to custom carve/sculpt a gargoyle for him. Unfortunately, it’s way too expensive and (without telling my BF) I thought perhaps I could make him one out of paper mache. But I was a bit put off by the paper strips and goop and the layer upon layer to make the thing. I think your recipe for paper mache clay is the answer to my conundrum! Now that I see how detailed you can get with this stuff, it’s much more to my liking than traditional PM. If I make a form using wire and bunched up newspapers (to ‘flesh’ it out) covered in masking tape, will the clay stick to it properly? I also want to put a weight in the base so it won’t tip over as it will be sitting on the floor when complete. What would you suggest? A block of wood? A brick? Do you think it would matter? Not sure when I will get around to this project, but will send photos when I do! Thanks!!
Hi Pamela. Yes, the paper mache clay will stick to a paper form. I usually cover the paper with masking tape to get a smoother surface, and the clay sticks to that, too.
For my giraffe head, I put a plastic bag in the base and then I poured in some plaster. With the weight of the plaster on the bottom of the neck, the sculpture never tips over, even though the head would naturally unbalance it. There’s a photo of it if you follow that link. If the neck hadn’t been so long, I would have stuffed the top with paper and then turned it upside down to add the plaster.
Good luck with your project. Be sure to let us see it when it’s done.
Excellent idea using a plastic bag and plaster! I never thought of that. Once I get started on this (and it may be a while as I’m starting back at work next week after being off for almost a year with a torn shoulder), I will take lots of photos and let you know how things progress. I’m really enjoying looking through your website and at what your readers have made too! Giving me lots of inspiration!!
Hi Jonni,
thank you for the wonderful paper machie clay recipe! I have tried it and it works great. Do you have any advice on how i can give the piece a nice finished smooth surface. I have tried to sand it down with sandpaper and a dremel which is a handy tool and it did make a big difference but i still can’t get a perfectly nice smooth surface. Any suggestions?
Stella, I like to give the dried clay a coat or two of gesso, and then wet-polish it with a damp sponge. You can get a very smooth surface that way, without a lot of dust. There are two home-made gesso recipes on this page.
I just tried the ultimate recipe – and it didn’t work well. It didn’t seem ‘wet’ enough. Probably the toilet paperwas too good quality as it didn’t break up when I beat it with the beaters. We have diferent products in NZbut found a joint compund etc
Hi Fliss. You might try adding some more of the other ingredients to the batch you made, and beat again. Perhaps there was too much paper in the mix?
Hi Jonni
Happy New Year!
Are you using the premixed REGULAR joint compound or the premixed LIGHTWEIGHT joint compound in your recipe? I use the Sheetrock brand and they offer both the regular and the lightweight.
I love your website and your YouTube channel too
I use the regular, but others have used the lightweight, and both work just fine.
Oops. Sorry, the file was not attached.
Hi Elly, I apply the clay by hand, but I have to keep dipping my hands in water otherwise it gets very sticky to your hands, not too wet or the clay thins out too much. As to cracks, I get them, but just go over with another layer of Jonniclay when the first coat is dry, not sure if this helps, but it works for me.
Hello again, Jonni. I need help. I made the clay but then I just had 1/4 cup glue with me so I adjusted the recipe according to my available materials. I do not know if what I made was the clay expected but it was so sticky and when I used it, it was a bit difficult since it kept on sticking on my hand. I believe I did something wrong but I don’t know where because comparing to your picture and video, It seems the clay must not be so sticky. I do not have an electric mixer so I mixed it laboriously. When I used it on my wire framework of the bonsai (I decided to use it to assist me in making a mould of my tree) and left it to dry, I found that one part of the tree did not attach itself with other parts and left a crack. It hasn’t dried completely yet but it would not attach itself any longer and I’m afraid that it would break apart. I remedied it temporarily using carpenter’s wood glue but I do not know how else to remedy it. The tree is not yet finished since I no longer have paper mache clay and would be buying more materials whenever I am able to.
I have attached a photo of my progress so far with my bonsai tree. Sorry if it’s not that well-made. I’m not much of an artist.
Thank you in advance.
Hi Elly. I’m not sure why your clay came out so sticky. Did you measure the paper to make sure you were using enough? And did you press out the water before adding it to the mix? I don’t use my hands to apply the clay (a knife is so much easier, in my opinion). You might try that, and it might work just fine. Or you could try thickening the clay a little with a bit more flour.
It seems really strange that the clay didn’t stick to itself. And the crack in your work is unusual, too. I have never run into these problems. Does anyone have any suggestions for Elly?
I did not measure the paper exactly using a measuring cup but I just estimated it. I did press out the water very hard before adding it to the mix. I did used a small spatula and a spoon in the end because my hand was already filled with the clay. I am going to try making another batch of the clay soon as soon as I am ready to mix the clay again (as I’ve said, I do not have an electric mixer for this.)
The crack was not remedied by the carpenter’s glue. I no longer know what to do with it. I’m thinking of just pasting the paper strips around it. The clay did not harden well enough (maybe due to the unpredicted sunny-rainy weather here) and is starting to break apart. I’m afraid it won’t even feel like real wood that is hard and strong. If worse comes to worst and I can no longer remedy it, I may have to start all over again. I’m not giving up with this one yet, though.
Elly, can you tell me what brand of joint compound you used? Maybe that’s the problem.
I’m using Bostik Gypsum Ready Mixed Joint Compound here in the Philippines.
I forgot to mention that I used newspaper and bond paper (strips of them) instead of tissue paper. The bonsai has hardened well now but if I. Am to make a new batch of clay, I should know where I have gone wrobg in my first trial of usibg the paper mache clay. Thanks again for all the help. Really like your site!
Hi Jonni. I would just like to ask for advice. I have been just recently working on my first project, which is a bonsai tree (I believe I have also commented about this on your topic at paper mache recipes) and I have been encountering difficulties when using just a wire framework to build my paper mache. I needed some of those wires to attach the flowers and leaves on the tree, which will be made using origami. However, I was thinking of using this idea of your paper mache clay. How can I incorporate this idea to the wire framework? I wish to just use this framework as my guide in making my mould. Is this a good idea? Thank you and I really appreciate your site and works. Maybe I will share a picture of my work once its done. It is supposed to be a rose bonsai tree and I believe it will be really amazing.
Hi Elly. The clay is more difficult to apply over wire than paper strips and paste. That’s just about the only time when the clay is more difficult. For the trunk of the tree it would work really well, because you can make nice bark-like textures with the clay. But if the branches are as thin as wire, covered with masking tape, you might want to use paper strips and paste for those.
I was planning on making about a 1cm diameter as the smallest diameter to apply paper mache on. The thin branches would just be made out of tissue foil. Thanks for the advice. I have been planning on continuing to work on my project once I have all the materials I need for the clay.
Hi Jonni,
Lovely site and quite inspirational! Glad I stumbled across it. I’m about to embark on my first papier mâché adventure, and I have a few questions. Being that I’m from Australia and that my husband is a plasterer by trade, the topping cement isn’t an issue… My main concern is mould as we live in a very humid tropical climate. I’ve been unsuccessful in finding wallpaper paste to substitute for the flour… Is there anything I can use that would prevent mould growth with the flour? Also, is the clay mixture a “one coat” process, or is it possible to build up, layer upon layer, until we get the shapes and details desired? (letting it dry in between coats, of course!) I’ve attached a photo of my work in progress… It’s a dragon, or more accurately, a wyvern, as it doesn’t have front legs (lots of masking tape on that armature!) Thank you in advance, and Merry Xmas!
Many people use either bleach or clove oil to prevent mold in paste. And some people have also tried it in the clay recipe and say it works. You might give it a try,
I love the wyvern’s armature – it’s going to be wonderful when it’s done. The paper mache clay mixture can be added in layers. I often put on a thin first coat, just to give myself a nice solid surface to work with.
Thanks a mil, Jonni! I might use some clove oil in the clay mixture. I hope it turns out okay. Will post a pic up when it’s all finished. Might be a while as it’s summer here, down in Oz, and it’s bloody hot and humid, which means looooooong drying sessions! Cheers!
Hi. I really appreciate your recipe! I have been making clock bodies from paper pulp..shredded paper, glue, linseed oil and other things but your recipe is much better. I left out the flour however and added calcium carbonate instead for a filler. No mould. What do you think? Isn’t it the addition of something food related that tends to create the mould? Some of my clocks are grandmother and grandfather sized so I use a lot of paper pulp. I LOVE this recipe; much better than the one I developed! Thanks!! Dixie
Mineral oil or Vitamin E oil can subs for linseed oil. Linseed oil comes from flax seed and tends to allow mold. Cheers.
Thanks Lz! I’ll keep this in mind the next time I make a batch of clay. I hope the one I made doesn’t go all funky! I did use a few drops of clove oil in it. Fingers crossed!
Here’s a photo of the progress so far. It’s been raining a lot here, so the humidity is astronomical! It takes forever for it to dry in this weather.
Merry Christmas to everyone from rainy Australia!
Carole, can you put your creature in front of a fan? That really speeds up the drying time.
Hi Jonni. I have a pedestal fan I use to try and help with the evaporation. It seems to be helping somewhat, but the atmosphere is so saturated with humidity that it does take forever to fully dry.
During high humid times we run dehumidifiers in the basement. I usually put my pieces in front a small fan near the dehumidifier, and it usually dries overnight. Any chance you have a dehumidifier running somewhere in the house?
That’s a great idea! Didn’t think of that one. We don’t have one, but I know they’re available here, in Oz. Thanks, matey!
What is the reason for the linseed oil and flour?
Thanks!
The linseed oil makes the clay a little easier to spread, and it may make the finished product harder when it dries. You can leave it out. The flour acts as a filler, to make the clay the consistency you want.
Hi, sounds like a great recipe. However, is joint compound dry powder, or the premixed.
Premixed.
Hi there. I found this recipe interesting, but when I was first working on a project for my church, I did not have time to experiment, so I used regular paper mache… I was asked to make a horse, for a western-themed supper for the men’s ministry… And I did. Full-size, even.
But I was in a bit of a hurry, and did not have all that many layers of paper mache, and skimped on the details of the face (eyes barely painted on, nostrils present, but forgot to give it a mouth… And I had to give it away, afterwards, since we did not have room to keep it at the church (and really, when’s the next time we’ll need a horse for anything, right?) So anyway, I gave it to someone who works with kids, and I would like to solidify it and finish the detail work on the head. (Incidentally, I also agreed to make him a dinosaur, in the new year…)
Now that I would have more time to experiment, I would be interested in using your recipe, to give the horse a more solid skin, and actual details for the face. But before I start, I need to know:
How solid does your clay recipe get, once dry?
The corollary: how thick does it have to be, to be mostly puncture-proof/kid-proof?
How much coverage do you get with that (how much area can you cover, at what thickness)?
Exactly how long does it take to dry?
Will it work when applying it to the underside of a sculpture (or will I need to turn the horse upside down in order to apply it to the belly)?
How well will it stick to vertical surfaces (like the legs)?
I look forward to seeing your reply.
Yours truly,
Claude Doucet, lake(dot)wrangler(at)gmail(dot)com
Si Dieu est ton copilote, tu es dans le mauvais siège!!!!
If God is your copilot, you’re in the wrong seat!!!
Si Bondye se kopilòt ou, ou pa nan bon chèz!!!
P.S. when I have time, I will upload some photos of the horse (before and after completion) to the internet. When I do, I’ll post a link to them.
I would love to see your horse. I’m not sure I can answer quite all your questions, though. The clay will dry almost as hard as plastic, and a 1/8 inch thickness should be plenty for most uses. I don’t know the kids in question, so you might want to do a test square on a sheet of plastic and see if you think it’s going to be tough enough. I have never tested the recipe to know how big an area it will cover. I have never made any large flat things, so I’m not sure how I would even go about doing that. (If you figure it out, please let us know.) Drying time depends on how thickly you apply the clay and the temperature and humidity of the room. Whether or not the air is moving is also a big factor. Give your horse plenty of time–several days at least. It will feel dry on the outside before it is completely dry on the inside.
I prefer to turn the pieces over to apply clay to the underside. It’s way to hard on my back and neck otherwise. If you use a thin layer, it should stick upside down, though. And yes, it will stick to the legs.
Enjoy!
Thanks for the reply.
Two more questions:
Will it work with newspaper as well as with toilet paper? (I have access to a near infinite supply, seeing as I work as a bus driver for the city of Montreal… if even half of the 585 drivers in the garage I work from get a newspaper each day, that’s almost 300 papers per day… plenty to work with, for paper mache…)
Does the combination of joint compound and linseed oil give off any strong odor? (I.e. will the project need to be in a well-ventilated area while being worked on and while drying?)
Thanks again for your time and your expertise.
Yours truly,
Claude Doucet, lake(dot)wrangler(at)gmail(dot)com
Si Dieu est ton copilote, tu es dans le mauvais siège!!!!
If God is your copilot, you’re in the wrong seat!!!
Si Bondye se kopilòt ou, ou pa nan bon chèz!!!
People have used newspaper pulp with the recipe with good results. It will take more work to break it down into fibers, though.
What would be a good substitute for joint compound?
I don’t know of any substitute for joint compound. It’s a special mixture of calcium carbonate, fillers and binders that works in this recipe. If you can’t find it, you might want to do a search for paper mache pulp recipes, instead.
it shrinks when it is drying?
Yes, but not much.
Thanks for wonderful recipe. Wonder if you’ve tried any jewelry or minatures or other small items with this clay?
No, I haven’t. If you do, please let us know how they turn out.
I saw your you tube video & would love to make something using this wonderful media. Could I use it to make masks that would be safe to wear? What do you think the best way to do so would be? Thank you for the inspiration & time!!
Many people have made masks from the paper mache. In fact, you might want to check out these masks made for a fabulous high school theater production. For hints on how to make your masks, you can check out the Joker mask I made last year. This year, I tried making a portrait mask using clay for a positive mold. You can see her here. Good luck with your project.
Hi Jonni,
I just love making things but thought that sculpting was too hard for me to get into being on a tight budget and without access to a kiln, etc. So I was quite pleased when I found your site with the paper mache clay recipe! Since I found your site I’ve made dozens of projects using both the traditional newspaper paper mache as well as the clay – sometimes together – and am looking forward to experimenting with a gesso finish next.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world. Your work is very inspiring!
Love,
Heather
Thanks, Heather. Will you be posting any photos of your work so we can see them?
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