Paper Mache Clay
I recently developed a new recipe for a sculptural material I call “paper mache clay.” This material is so easy to use and so easy to make that I now use it exclusively for all my paper mache sculptures.
It might be a bit more accurate to call this material “home-made air-dried cellulose-reinforced polymer clay,” but that’s way too hard to say (or type!), so for now, let’s just call it paper mache clay.
The first video below shows how to make the paper mache clay, and the second video answers some common questions that I’ve received from readers since I first developed this recipe. Below the videos you’ll find the recipe written out, and a few comments about how it’s used. (This recipe is the basis for my book “Make Animal Sculptures with Paper Mache Clay.”)
I usually make mine fairly thin, so it can be spread over an armature like frosting – but you can also vary the consistency, and make it thicker, like this, when you want more control over the modeling process. A very thin layer, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch is extremely strong, and it replaces the many layers of traditional paper strips and paste.
The clay dries extremely hard when applied in a very thin layer (1/8 to 1/4″ thick) and the clay dries much faster than traditional paper mache pulp. (And it only takes about 5 minutes to make).
Paper Mache Clay on Snow Leopard Sculpture
As you can see above, the clay can be modeled into fairly fine details. Using the clay for modeling feels much more intuitive than creating sculptures with paper strips and paste, and once the clay is dry it is a pleasure to paint.
The ingredients are inexpensive, and can be found at your local grocery store and hardware store. You will need:
- Cheap toilet paper (measure the wet paper pulp, and use 1.24 cups – some rolls contain more paper than needed)
- 1 cup Joint compound from the hardware store (get “regular,” not “fast set” or “light”.)
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-all
- 1/2 cup White Flour
- 2 tablespoons Linseed Oil
See the video below for details on making your clay. And if you try this recipe, please let us all know what you think of it–and also please share a photo of your finished work. We’d love to see how it comes out. (Can’t see the video? See the instructions printed below).
[Edit 2/12/2011 - At least one manufacturer (Dap brand) of joint compound has changed their formula, and this brand no longer works for paper mache clay. If you find that your clay seems "rubbery" instead of smooth and creamy, you may need to use a different brand of joint compound. Any other brand will work. ]
Making Your Paper Mache Clay
Ingredients:
1 roll of toilet paper
3/4 cup of white glue (Elmer’s glue-All)
1 cup of joint compound
1/2 cup white flour
2 tablespoons linseed oil
Tools:
You’ll also need a large bowl, (use one with high sides so you don’t splatter clay on your cupboards), an electric mixer, a measuring cup and a tablespoon measure. To keep t he finished clay from drying out, you’ll need an air-tight container. The recipe makes approximately 1 quart of paper mache clay.
Note about Toilet Paper:
Unfortunately, the people who make toilet paper don’t expect us to turn their product into great works of art, so they see no reason to include the kind of information that would make things a lot easier for us.
I use a brand called “Angel Soft,” in the “regular” 2-ply rolls. I buy it at my local Wal-Mart. Each roll contains approximately 1 1/4 cup of paper, which I measured by wetting the paper, squeezing out the water, and then firmly squishing it into a measuring cup.
Since brands differ so much, the first time you make this recipe you should take a few minutes to find out how much paper is in the first roll. Then adjust the recipe if your brand don’t contain about 1 1/4 cup of paper. Fortunately, this is not a chemistry experiment or rocket science–if your mixture contains a little more paper than mine, or a little less, your sculptures will still be stunning.
Step 1. Fill a high-sided bowl with warm water. Remove the toilet paper from the roll and throw it into the water. Push down on the paper to make sure all of it gets wet.
Step 2. Then pick up the paper and squeeze out as much water as you can. Pour the water out of the bowl and put your paper mass back in.
Step 3. You will want to break the paper into chunks about 1″ across. This will allow your mixer to move around the pieces and break them apart.
Step 4. Add all the ingredients to the bowl and mix, using an electric mixer. The mixer will pull the fibers of the toilet paper apart and turn it into pulp. Continue to mix for at least 3 minutes to make sure all the paper has been mixed in with the other ingredients. If you still see some lumps, use a fork or your fingers (with the mixer turned off!) to break them apart, and then mix some more.
Your paper mache clay is now ready to use. It will look a bit like cookie dough—but don’t eat it!
If you don’t plan to use your clay right away, place it in an airtight container to keep it from drying out. The clay should stay usable for 5 days or more, if you keep it covered. The recipe makes about 1 quart.
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I am new at this so excuse my ignorance. I want to make a urn for my great-grandson’s ashes. I thought about using the bottom of a soda bottle as the base for the strips pf paper mache . then gluing a strip of ribbon on the top for a seal. I wanted to used styroform for the lid base, putting the strips on that . Does anyone know if this will work or have any suggestions I would appreciate them. Thanks! Carol
Since I have never made any boxes out of paper mache, I know I’m not the right person to answer Carol’s questions. Help, anyone?
Carol, I’ve been thinking about your project…Have you considered using Jonni’s paper mache clay? (recipe is on this site.) It’s a great medium, very sculptable. You would still need to build an armature, as with standard paper mache, but the clay is great for forming, sanding, and painting. I’m new to this medium too; I’ve found that plastic (and I’m guessing glass) is not very breathable and, therefore, takes FOREVER to dry! You could use a cardboard tube to form up the armature, as they come in a large variety of sizes. Can I suggest keeping your precious contents in a small jar or decorative bag and placing that in the urn? That way, if the urn were damaged, your treasure would stay safe. (Remember, paper mache is susceptable to water/moisture damage.) Best wishes and prayers as you create this special keepsake.
Holly , thank you for help and suggestions. Thats what I get for assuming that the paper would dry on the form, silly me. well. back to plan b as soon as I have one. As far as protection, I was going to shellac the finished product . carol
Hi there,
Is it okay to use a food processor instead of a hand mixer? Would it be safe to use the same food processor for food and well as paper clay, or should I buy a hand mixer just for the paper clay?
Thank you!
I would hesitate to use any expensive piece of equipment – mostly because I have a habit of breaking stuff. Since the beaters on my mixer are so easy to clean, I do use the same ones when I (rarely) use them for food, but I don’t know if the FDA would approve. Someone once mentioned that you can often find small hand mixer at a garage sale or thrift store for a few dollars – I think it would be worth it, to avoid even the vague possibility of ruining your food processor. I used a $12 mixer I bought at Fred Meyers for years until I finally broke it (dropped it on the floor), and it was actually more powerful than the new one I bought to replace it.
Hi, I have chemical sensitivities…can I use plaster (or another mixyure) in place of the joint compound? Thanks!
Plaster hardens through a chemical process, so it will become hard before you want it to. Joint compound only gets hard when it dries. You’re certainly free to try the plaster in place of the joint compound if you want, but you will need to move fast. And be sure you don’t wash any plaster down your drains.
If you find a formula that works for you, please let us know. I’m sure others would be interested. (Remember, too, that plaster will dry out your hands, so you might want to use gloves while you’re experimenting.)
Drum roll please! (hehe…just kidding) Presenting The Nutcracker!
This was actually Plan B, because head #1 seemed that it would be a bit cumbersome for the dancer. I attached the mask to the hat and drilled the eye holes after fitting it to the dancer. I’m fairly pleased with the outcome.
I’m relieved to have it finished on time! I’ll be watching it on stage this coming Friday. It’s a three week run; let’s hope the mask holds up!
Jonni, thanks for holding my hand as I tried this new medium and to all the contributers to this blog for their creativity and knowledge. I can’t wait for my next project!
Blessings.
Great job, Holly. Congratulations.
Excellent Holly and finished it on schedule too! Well done, thanks for showing us!.
So, I thought I’d report that after 3 weeks of dancing, the Nutcracker mask held up beautifully and received rave reviews. Thanks again and again. Merry Christmas!
Awesome Holly and congratulations!
Thanks for the update too!
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Jonni,
General question regarding the consistancy of the clay.. I’ve been experimenting. It seems my mixture is too lumpy. I can smooth it out with my fingers as I go, but I was wondering how pulpy it should be before I start. I’m thinking that my electric mixer does not pulverize the TP as much as yours. Thoughts?
Holly, did you measure your wet tp? If your roll contained more paper than the recipe calls for, it will be lumpy. You can always mix in more joint compound, glue and flour to get the consistency you want.
Hi Holly, I have made and used Jonni’s TP pulp successfully but the first batch of TP clay did not appear as creamy as Jonni described it so I remixed the clay not just the TP pulp alone using my hand drill, my dremel tool and ended up using my patient wife’s stick mixer on small volumes and it made it much better but it was tough on the equipment because I managed to smell smoke while using my hand drill and dremel tool.
I concluded, because it ended up being more creamy, I had not mixed (mushed) the TP enough before making the clay and that led me to think about using what had been my “standard source” of paper, old newspapers, as a source again because I had a bag full of 1/4 inch wide by 1/2 inch long shredded strips. If remixing the TP clay improved things would it do the same for the course pulp made with newsprint? So I set about to find out and after making some I can say it made a nice creamy PM clay too and here is what I did:
I filled a pot with water and grabbed two healthy hands full of the above mention shredded newsprint and boiled if for about 20 minutes in a covered pan (I had never boiled it before) I also added 2 tablespoons of salt at this step to retard spoilage.
After this paper “soup” cooled a bit I put about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 of a cup of this very watery mix in to an old Osterizer blender I then used the “burst” button to mix for short burst of about 4-5 sec on the “Shred” setting about 10-12 times then switch to the “liquify” setting for a 30 sec long blend, repeated that 3-4 times. This watery mix did not bog down the blender so it was really mashed up well and this makes for an absolutely lump free pulp and hence a creamy PM clay when mixed with my paste.
An unrelated observation I made during this process was the color of the water. It was no longer clear but tinted and I suspect part of it was the ink but it wasn’t just grey but had a slight brown tint to it as well. I guessed it might be a binder used in the newsprint and to test that out I made a small sphere of this newly made pulp and set it aside. I always do this when making new PM clay to test and compare it (I have a nice collection of small PM clay spheres, did I mention how kind and patient my wife is?) and much to my surprise it has stuck together and is sitting right up there with the other test pieces in my collection but much lighter of course.
Thanks, Bob – this was an interesting experiment. I might check our local junk store to see if I can find an old blender (I don’t dare try this in my new one). It would be nice to be able to use recycled paper instead of new tp in the clay.
Well, Bob, you were a bit more adventurous in your experimentation! For my current project, (the Nutcracker-that must be finished by the end of this weekend,) I decided to go with the joint compound solution as expressed in another post (applying a thin layer over the clay and “wet” sanding.) But, I do plan to try playing with the pulp; I think the secret lies therein. Like you, I found that if I mash and work the TP a little more aggresively, I could obtain a decently creamy clay. Jonni, I used the same kind of TP that you like, so I didn’t think to measure it, but I found that if I really let it soak through, and pulled apart the larger lumps, I could get it to be pulpy enough to sculpt.
I SO appreciate the feedback and advise from both of you! I’m having so much fun
I’ll try to send photos next time around.
Thank you Jonni, Without you sharing your TP recipe I would have never thought to even try this variation of your PM clay. I should also mention I have not used any linseed oil or glycerin because I didn’t have any on hand when I first tried this. I did, instead, use Karo Light Corn Syrup at one point and it worked but I no longer use that either.
I do use liquid starch in my paste and wonder if that replaces the linseed oil and if adding linseed oil will make this even more creamy?
Here is my paste variation:
(¼ cup units were used in this case)
6 Parts Gen purpose Flour
1 Part PVA (Elmer’s Glue-all)
2 tablespoons of salt
Add enough warm water to make a thin pancake like mix (about 6 parts water)
1 part Liquid Starch
Liquid Starch & PVA make Silly Putty so mix water, PVA and flour 1st. then add in Liquid Starch
My PM Clay recipe:
6 parts paste, (above)
1 part Drywall Compound or a bit more ( a generous “1“ part)
6 parts of my newspaper pulp The pulp needs the water well squeezed out.
½ to 1 (part) teaspoon acrylic paint (white in this case).
Note to you Jonni: I’m not sure if you want my variations of paste and PM clay listed in this fine thread you have going here…. So PLEASE feel free to not use part or any of the above posting. My goal is to help expand the knowledge base in this great forum you have so graciously provided for us not to diminish it in any way.
Hi Bob – I love it when you post your recipe variations. I think it helps people realize that experiments are fun, and that there are always possible variations. That’s the best part of this blog – all the things I’ve learned from you and other readers. Keep experimenting!
Hi, Jonni
Thanks for a wonderful post. I sort of got back into the paper mache hobby since i last made one some 20 years ago, thanks to my son. But i’m used to making the conventional newspaper strip technique. Hope i could try this successfully and not ending up with a bowl of solid toilet paper mass. Also, if you could email me some molding techniques or direct me to some links on how to specifically make knights, horses and little soldiers for my son, i would appreciate it. Again, thanks and have a great day.
Hi Ricky – I don’t have much experience with using molds with paper mache, and the experience I do have is with fairly large items, like the ferret. I’m not sure how the paper mache clay will work with thin horse legs and no inner armature. Perhaps another reader will have some ideas for you.
Ricky, You may want to just go polymer on that. But you will still need quit a few things to make it work. Like wire 20 gage or less depending on what size to make. If you want to try let me know. Or now that I’m thinking about it, you could try tooth picks, a tronger wire like bonsai wire. I would go bigger on the bonsai wire like 2.0 mil. or 3.0 I bends forever.
Thanks, Julie
I’ve placed that thought on hold for a while and concentrated on this paper mache “predator” mask for my son to be used on our company Christmas party, which we eventually ended up winning the 2nd prize. Merry Christmas and best regards to all.
Ricky, the mask looks great. It looks like that camel isn’t quite sure what to make of it -
Bob, I’m playing around with molds again, and I wonder if you’ve tried this version of paper mache clay in a mold of any kind? How does it work differently from the “standard” version? Is it as hard and strong when it dries, or perhaps harder? (I’m in the mood to do some experimenting, but I’m trying to decide if I want to walk to the store and buy some liquid starch – being lazy, in other words…)
Hi Jonni, Sadly I have not made any mold attempts. The closest I’ve come is to reinforce the inside of a regular chicken’s egg (after cracking two eggs for breakfast I saved a few of the remaining bits, cleaned them and applied a very thin layer of the PM clay.. Eggs have an amazing shape but are so delicate so I thought to strengthen the shell with a layer of PM clay and it worked very well.
So perhaps with a release agent or plastic wrap it could also be used for molding? It is tough stuff.
If I manage to post a picture of it you can see the wall thickness of the (blue tinted) PM clay is 1 mm (0.040“) or less and it seems very tough . I didn’t try to control the thickness but just wanted it “thin”. The smaller eggshell will be used as a decoration on the plant stand I’m making. It sands nicely.
Is that the eggshell I’m seeing, or is the actual PM clay? It’s incredibly smooth. Our snow is melting, so I think I might make a grocery run tomorrow, and pick up some liquid starch.
Both are eggshells. The blue tinted PM clay is applied to the inside of an eggshell and the smaller one is the outside of a trimmed re-sized eggshell that has been sanded.
Nutcracker is not quite dry yet. I’ve been thinking about the next steps. I realized that I did not leave eye holes. Nutcracker’s eyes are painted on so I didn’t think about the fact that the dancer will need to see! Can I drill the clay? I don’t want to make very big holes; just enough for him to see out of. I can cover it with black screen if it doesn’t impede his view too much. Ideas?
Yes, you can cut, drill or sand the dried clay. If it’s still slightly damp, it will be easier to do it now, if you’re really careful to not deform the shape.
Here’s Nutcracker so far. I did not put an armature inside the nose. Do you think it’s necessary? (It’s about 3/4″ wide.)
The nose should dry just fine without anything inside. It will take longer than a thin layer of clay, of course.
I can’t wait to see it when it’s finished. When is it appearing on stage?
Hi Jonni,
I just built an armature for a Nutcracker mask using plastic milk jugs. I had planned to use traditional paper mache, but after finding your recipe, I’m thinking your “clay” might work well. Do you think this will work? Would I remove the armature after the clay dries or leave it for strength? Lastly, how thick should the mask be? I’m super excited to try this! Thank you very much.
I’ve used the clay for making masks (see the Joker mask here). It does work, and it’s much easier to put in details than it would be if you used paper strips and paste. The plastic milk jug might not be necessary for strength, but it will help you get a nice smooth inner surface. You can leave it in, or take it out – you might want to make that decision after the mask is completely dry.
I used a very thin layer of paper mache clay on the Joker mask, which probably was about 1/8″ in most places. It was very strong, even with this thin layer. However, I had no actual “use” for the mask, and it wasn’t going to be used in a play or other setting where it might be handled roughly. I think it would still hold up, (it could probably be dropped on concrete without breaking, although I didn’t actually test it…).
Several readers have sent in comments and photos of their masks. To find them, use the search bar at the top of this page. I think you’ll like to see Leonard’s coyote mask, which I believe is part of a costume.
OK! I’m snowed-in today…great day to make a Nutcracker mask! I appreciate your quick replay and helpful tips. Happy sculpting!
Hi Jonni,
I want to make VERY large Christmas ornaments using your clay and different sized beach balls. Can you give me any advice on getting a smooth surface? I want to paint and then glitter.
You can get a very smooth finish if you allow the paper mache clay to dry for an hour (or less, even) – just until it loses it’s stickiness. Then put a piece of plastic film over the layer of clay and use your hand to smooth the clay though the plastic. It takes a bit of practice, but it works quite well. After the clay is dry, you can smooth it even more by painting on gesso, made from two parts joint compound and one part white glue. When this dries, use a lightly damp sponge to “sand” the gesso. It may take more than one layer to get a perfectly smooth surface.
Good luck with your project. Be sure to let us see the ornaments when they’re done – this sounds like a really fun project!
Thanks very much I will check it out at the hardware store when I go to town
Hi, Love your idea for paper mache clay – only I’m in Australia and have no idea of what joint compound is – I would really like to try this recipe so can you explain joint compound to me so I can try and get something here to match it. Thanks
Hi Chris. According to one of our readers, joint compound is called “joint filler” in Australia. That’s actually a more descriptive term – I don’t know why we don’t call it that here in the states.
Hey Chris, I live in New Zealand and it’s called ready mix all purpose compound. The stuff I got is by GIB and is called GIB Promix All Purpose. I haven’t tried it yet, but when I went to Mitre 10, I asked for gib mud, “You know…the stuff you use with tape to cover/fill the seam between gib boards.” They lead me right to it. Hope this helps.
2 questions:
Is this a heavy clay or is it still light? I’m thinking of making christmas ball ornaments for an artificial tree and wondering how heavy it dries
And do you have a facebook page?
Thanks!!
Hmm – I’ve received several questions lately about how heavy the paper mache clay is, and I don’t have a good answer for you. It rather depends on how thickly you apply the clay. If you put it over some Styrofoam balls and apply it in a thin (1/8″ or so) layer, your tree shouldn’t fall down.
I do have a facebook page, but I almost never visit so I’m sure there are questions out there that haven’t been answered. I also get comments on my YouTube videos, and I have a really hard time keeping up.
Thank you!! Hope you have a blessed week
I will be sharing your page with my crafty and artist friends 
Hi from the Cayman Islands! I am so glad I found your web site. I will be testing Clay your recipe this weekend along with my kids.
Thanks so much for sharing!
Hi – your Owl is amazing and I can’t wait to see the finished results. I would like to make your paper clay recipe, however as I live in the UK I am unsure what the joint compound is. Can you tell me the ingredients of this product so that I can find a comparison. Many thanks!
Hi Dawn. We did collect the names used for some of the products in other countries. You can find it by scrolling down just a bit on this page. I don’t think we’ve got a brand name for the Elmer’s glue substitute in the UK, but any PVA glue should work. Good luck.
And I’ll try to finish that owl in the next day or two. I got sidetracked by the new coloring book I just finished and sent off to the printers. When I get so close to getting a project done, I just can’t put it down for anything – even a snowy owl. But now I’ll have time to finish her.
I’ve been long planning [&finally getting around to] making a hollow, life-sized “statue” by paper mache-ing a boy [with help from his sister]. I thought i could “mummy wrap him” and body temperature plus a fan and a couple hair dryers could aid in the drying process. Once dry, i plan to cut along the backs of the limbs, etc to let him shed his “exoskeleton.” [Of course i would allow nostril holes and a mouth slit while encasing my eager volunteer.]
I imagine different poses, depending on the season. Now, it’d be a challenge, after mending the removal cuts and making a base, to make some wings for an angel.
What material would you recommend for making the “exoskeleton” ???
Other people have also suggested the idea of applying paper mache directly to a real person, in order to make a life-like shape. I try to discourage it, since the paper mache will take a very long time to dry if you put on enough layers to get a stiff “skin” that won’t be distorted when you take it off. I don’t know about the boy you have in mind, but standing in one position without moving for 48 hours or more would be a challenge for anyone. And I’m not entirely sure what sort of chemicals they put in newspaper…
Besides, if you heat up the paper and paste enough to cause it to dry faster, you could be heating up the person inside, too. Sorry, but to me it just doesn’t sound like a very good idea.
You might want to check out the dressmaker’s website that one of our readers found. It shows how to make a shape around a real person, which can then be made permanent with paper mache after the shape has been removed from the model. You can find it here.
Thanks for you quick reply. I have both the glue and the joint compound as I am going to try another batch of your paper clay recipe.
Dennise
I want to “plaster” a dollhouse which is made with plywood. Would papier mache clay adhere to the plywood? I am trying to replicate a timber frame Tudor style house with the straw and clay stuccoed surface between the timbers. Thanks. Edith
I think the clay would stick, and if you put on a very thin layer you should be able to get the texture you want. However, it may be easier to use the home-made gesso recipe that I like to use – two parts joint compound and one part white glue. This will stick, for sure, and it can be textured in the same way that you would texture a wall. Or try just plain joint compound…. I’ve never tried doing any of this myself (except on real walls, of course), so do some experiments to see what works best.
Jonni, would this home-made gesso that calls for joint compound be the premade compound? I am finding some cracking in my figures and am looking to find something that I have already to use. I did purchase a bottle of gesso, but it is acrylic paint consistancy.
Yes, I use the kind that’s already mixed. You can often quart-sized containers at the hardware store. The gallon size costs less than five dollars in our local store.
I want to keep the “stucco” as lightweight as possible. That’s why I wondered about the clay. Would the gesso e as light over the entire house, do you think? And thanks for getting back to me.
I’m not sure which would be lighter. I think the joint compound alone or the gesso would be slightly easier to spread thinly. But getting exactly the texture you want could be easier with the clay, which can be spread thinly if you’re careful. As far as weight goes, it’s probably about the same. A few experiments might help.
Thanks. I will do some experimenting.
Thank you so much for sharing your papier mache recipe, this is exactly what I’m looking for and I can’t wait to experiment with it! I’ve used clay for over 30 years and have become sensitive to the dust and have developed an allergy to it.
I’m very excited to get started and would like to thank you for all your information,
Kind regards, Irene (The Hague, Netherlands)
Hi
How much coverage is obtained from each recipe. Am looking to make a fake rock for school performance – about 3ft X 4ft and just wondered how much clay I would need to make. Sounds great by the way!
Sallie
Oh dear – this sounds like one of those story problems we used to get in math class. Or would it be geometry? The amount you need will depend on the thickness you apply, and the total surface area. I’m not smart enough to figure it out with any accuracy, but I can guess that you’ll need at least four quarts. One recipe makes about a quart. I suggest you make just one recipe at a time, and then make more if you run out.
Hi!
I am going to be making fairy houses for my daughters for Christmas & I am intrigued by the paper mache clay. Is it cut-able? I want to have relatively thin walls & be able to have a movable door and window cutouts. Do you think the clay would work in this application or should I stick to traditional paper mache?
Thanks!
Hi Erika. The dried clay can be cut, but not easily. It would be easier to form your houses out of cardboard, cut the doors and windows where you want them, and then add a thin layer of paper mache clay. That way you’d have strong walls, and you wouldn’t need to cut through the clay.
Thanks so much for this recipe. I did try it yesterday, however I didn’t actually measure the amount of tissue I had when I squeezed out the water. I must have missed that when I watched the video. My clay was more like paste, so I kept adding additional flour to get a clay consistancy. I think it is now unusable due to the amount of flour I added and may mold. I will try another batch today and I will actually measure the tissue. Should it be “packed” into the measuring cup (like when you bake with brown sugar)?
Thanks!
Hi Dennise. Yes, when you measure your paper, get it wet and squish it into your measuring cup. Good luck with your next batch.
Hello there. i found your papier mache clay recipe and video tutorial very useful. However I am watching from the UK and whilst I guess that your Elmers glue -all white glue is the same as our PVA white glue I am stumped as to what a cup of jointing compound might be. Any ideas, what is it made of… Yours Rod Lupton
Hi Rod. Other readers have suggested that it’s called “joint filler” in the UK. It’s contains gypsum or calcium carbonate, and fills the cracks between plasterboard on new walls.
Hi, I am fairly new at paper mache and am taking on a good sized project for my first official paper mache endeavor. My parents own a clock shop (the House of Clocks, in Morgantown Indiana) and I have been wanting to use paper mache to create some window displays for the shop. I am working on some snow covered, trees for a winter window. The trees will look like the tree carvings found on some of the cuckoo clocks. I am going to create the trees first, and if I have time I am going to attempt to make two, large nutcrackers, one for each window. Each nutcracker will be standing is the snow forest while holding a clock.
I think your paper mache clay will work great for the trees. It will allow me to carve into the branches to give them that Black Forest, hand-carved look.
Thanks!
That sounds like a great project! Be sure to post some photos of the finished window – we’d love to see how it turns out.
Sure thing.
Hi Jonni,
I am thinking about using your recipe to make bowls. Do you think I should put some type of finish on them when I am done decorating due to the comments made about the joint compound and the linseed oil? Any advice you can give will be greatly appreciated.
Hi Brenda. You will want to put a finish on your bowls to protect them. The clay recipe contains several items that make it non-edible – but since you can’t really wash a paper mache bowl, I assume you’ll be using them for decorations, not for food. That would be true if you were using traditional paper strips and paste, as well, since you really can’t know what chemicals they use to produce the paper, and water will ruin them.
So, yes – use a protective finish, as I suggest for any paper mache sculpture. But don’t use the bowls for food.
derrrr sorry just read all the answers on the compound. my hubby is a plasrerer so im sure he’ll sort me out. Thanks.
Hi Jonni,
Love your website and ideas. I would like to try a small project to see how well I do.
Is it possible to use a more common household oil (canola? olive? peanut?) rather than linseed? Please forgive me if you have answered this question in other posts.
thanks for your response. Cynthia
Vegetable oils won’t work, because they aren’t drying oils. However, you can either leave out the linseed oil, or replace it with an equal amount of glycerin. The glycerin is non-toxic, and gives the clay a nice “feel.”
I used your recipe for my Halloween masks this year! Thanks it turned out great!
Not sure how to upload the photos for you to see but here are the links
we were Beaker and Bunsen from the muppets!
These are great!
Jonni,
Looks like, in your video, that the joint compound is already wet when you add it. I bought some that is a powder. Do I just mix it up per instructions and then add it as a wet ingredient to the papier mache mix, or add it as a powder? Can’t wait to try it out! Thanks for the recipe.
Deb
Hi Deb. The recipe does use pre-mixed joint compound, so go ahead and mix yours according to the package directions. Then follow the rest of the recipe. It should work out just fine.
First, I love your website! It’s very inspiring.
After getting all the things to make paper mache clay this morning, I noticed that joint compound and linseed oil are covered in warning labels because of being hazardous. My only concerned is my two dogs.
Do you think its safe to have these two items in a small apartment with two pets?
You’ll want to keep the lid on the joint compound, because dogs seem to be attracted to the calcium. And don’t feed any of the linseed oil to your pets.
These are products made for the construction industry, so they weren’t intended to be used by artists. Please use your best judgment about whether or not you feel comfortable with these products. But remember that linseed oil has been used by artists for hundreds of years, and joint compound is currently hiding on your walls, just under the paint. Just don’t sand anything, including paper mache clay, without a mask, and don’t leave the clay out where someone or something could mistake it for cookie dough. Then decide for yourself if you think they’re safe.
Hi Jonni,
I would love to make a lifesize (5 footish) stork. I do baby photography and would like to use it as a prop. Any suggestions on a pattern or how to start such a project? I am familiar with paper mache and have used your recipe which I love…but have never tackled any project this large.
Hi Shioban.
You could make a stork pretty much the same way I’m making my owl, except that you’ll need to create nice sturdy legs. I think that rebar would be perfect for stork legs. You’ll also need to put something heavy at the bottom, perhaps embed the bottom of your stork’s leg in cement or sand. That way, it wouldn’t be likely to fall over.
I’d love to see your stork when it’s done – I think this is a great idea!
Thank you Jonni, Now I’m off to the computer to find a good stork photo to use as a pattern. Will keep you posted on this project. Hugs,
Shioban
I did everything you told in the recipe. It has a 2,5cm of thickness. I poured the clay in a silicon mold i’ve made earlier and by pushing with my fingers i destroyed all the airbubles inside. I did this 3 days earlier and today I took the pulp out of the mold. It wasnt dry enough yet. So i cooked it in the oven for a while but then some cracks appeared on the papermache. How can i make it dry faster without being deformative?
If my metric translator is correct, your 2.5 cm is approximately 1 inch thick. I never use the clay for anything more than 1/4 inch thick at a time. It will dry eventually, but it will take a very long time, and it will be extremely difficult to keep it from cracking. If you need your pieces to be that thick, you might need to look into using a cement or mortar product, instead.
Oh, I love this statue! And I, too, had never heard of “monster mud”, but we’ll sure be giving it a try.
Love this stuff! Here’s my Halloween project. She’s a mourner statue for our front yard graveyard. She’s actually a combination of regular paper mache, this recipe, and something called “monster mud”, which is a mixture of 1 part joint compound, and 3 to 5 parts latex paint. A sort of gypsum
Thanks for the recipe!
This is really inspiring! And thanks for telling us about monster mud. I’d never heard of this combination before. Another thing to try.
Fantastic! Trick or treating must be very exciting in your neighborhood!
You know, I sculpt useing Polymer caly all the time. And we get really detailed on our hands and feet and other fetures…This is very good work Jennifer! I am suprised out how well a person can get detail in this stuff. I’m encouraged to really try it. Great Job! Now ..if you want to make me one you can just send it to me. LOL
Julie, you will want to see Steve’s highly-detailed figurine, which he made by using the paper mache clay recipe on this site and then added some self-hardening clay. He was able to get remarkable detail – it almost looks like a ceramic piece. I haven’t tried his version yet, but I think it would be a good transition if you’re used to polymer clay.
Enjoy!
Ya know, I will always use my polymer clay, but I have been wanting to do some of those ventage (NEW) halloween and christmas paper mache ornies and decor everyone is doing these days. I just dont know if there need to be an understructure for small ( say 3 to 4 inches tall) or even the say bowl for trick or treater candy, or just some sphear’s to decorate. Do you think I need to or should I just jump in and do it and see what happens? Also How long would it take for something solid to dry? Or maybe I should just make understructures!!! HELP!! My mind is going nuts with ton’s of Ideas and no escape…;O)
Hi Julie. The paper mache clay recipe works best as a thin layer over an armature. It was first developed as a less messy alternative to the traditional paper strips and paste. You can thicken it with more flour, but I think it would start to crack if you use it alone like “real” clay. But I’ve never tried it, so I could be wrong. Do note, though, that paper holds water for a long time, so any part of your piece that is not exposed to air, like the inside of a thick solid item, will take weeks to dry.
So, I got the joint compound and it has cancer warnings all over it. Are you sure this stuff is safe to use with bare hands??
Hi Lisa. I never put the clay on my bare hands, simply because it’s messy. Use a knife to spread the paper mache clay over an armature. It will not stand up by itself, so you do need an armature, anyway. Some people have suggested using their fingers to model the clay, but it will just stick to your hands and make a mess. Also, the calcium in the joint compound will dry your skin.
I’m not an expert on the safety of the product, since I’m not a chemist. If you’re concerned, I suggest you talk to someone in the construction industry who uses the stuff all the time. And you shouldn’t eat it (but why would you want to?)
Since it isn’t edible, I don’t suggest this recipe for small children.
Also, I try to remind people that they should never sand anything, including the paper mache clay, without using a mask.
Hi Jonni
Love your site – it’s amazing what you can find when you “google!”
I want to try your Paper Mache Clay recipe – but am from Australia and am not sure what Elmers Glue-All is. We have a glue here called Aquadhere which is a white PVA wood glue – I wonder if that would be similar?
Thanks for a wonderful site and for your help.
Hi Dianne. Elmer’s Glue-All is also a PVA glue, so your brand should work. The manufacturers all have different formulas, though, so you might want to buy a small bottle to test it out. If it works, please let us know.
Have fun!
Hi jonni! Im making or trying to make the horse sculpture(the last project) in the book – Make animal sculptures with paper mache clay. which recipe do you recommend for the horse? by the way I couldnt find where the horse was- did you erase it. if you didnt I’d appreciate it very much if you told me where to go to find it. Thanks oh and by the way im in 8th grade if that helps you. Thanks so much!
Hi Annika. I’m not quite sure what you mean by erasing the horse – it’s the last project in my book. I didn’t post any of the actual tutorials from the book on the blog, because there are so many photos and pages of instructions. I used the recipe that you see in the video at the top of this page, although lately I’ve been using glycerin instead of linseed oil – mostly because it’s easier to get the cap off.
There is an old post that includes a pattern for an appaloosa colt. At the time I had not developed the clay recipe yet, and several of the ideas I tried did not work well, like using plasterboard for a pattern instead of cardboard. You can find the pattern here. (scroll down the page a bit).
Enjoy!
Would this be safe to mold onto my son’s face? He insists on being a tiger for Halloween, and I want to build a mask (custom fit) to his face.
No, I do not recommend putting this clay directly on the skin. Besides, it will take over 24 hours to dry. You can make a form using aluminum foil carefully molded over the face. Then take the form off the face, put something soft behind it to keep it from collapsing, and spread your clay over that. The foil can be removed after the clay dries. The inside of the clay, next to the foil, will still be damp because no air can get to it – just let it dry some more after removing the foil.
Something soft, such as –?
Thanks for your quick reply-I have to make this happen over the weekend.
Something like some old socks, or an old pillow (with some plastic over it so you don’t get paper mache on it), or crumpled up paper. Anything that will keep the aluminum foil from getting squashed when you apply the paper mache clay.
I tried your recipe for paper mache clay but I used shredding from the recycle bin. I think it would have been smoother if I had used the toilet paper, but I liked the idea of recycling. The westher has been damp and I wondered if it would be possible (and safe) to place the partially covered paper mache figures in a very low tempature oven for a few hours to accelerate the drying process? I am covering portions of my paper, foil and masking taped figures with the paper mache clay and thought it best to allow to dry between sections. What is your advice?
Yes, you can place the items in the oven, but I don’t recommend setting the temp over 200 F. The glue in the recipe begins to smell after that, and I don’t know how the compounds in the gas will affect one’s health. At a low temperature, the oven works well. You can also dry your pieces faster by putting them in front of a fan, or over a heating vent where air is moving.
Aloha…. I was wondering if you could give me advice. I’m doing a sculpture that is about 7 feet tall. Its going to be Dr Seuss the Grinch that will be displayed at our city hall. I’ve never made on before. Because of the size and other details I was thinking of using chicken wire instead of the masking tape and crumpled paper step. Do u think it will work. Also wouldi your clay stay on the chicken wire? Please help me. I’m so over my head.
Hi Tiffany. Yes, you can use chicken wire for your armature, but the clay will fall through the holes. However, I think it would work really well if you cover the chicken wire with masking tape – or one layer of paper strips and paste. That would give the clay something to stick to.
Having been through exactly this with masonry cloth, I would suggest using 1/4″ quad wire mesh rather than chicken wire – you will have to use enough clay to press a little through the holes, but the clay will hold to this better than chicken wire or metal lathe. You’d find this with other screening materials such as chicken wire at a home improvement store.
I agree, Georgia. For small projects or ears, I use the aluminum grid sold in hardware stores for gutter screening, and it also has 1/4 inch holes. If the clay has a chance to grab the backside of the material, it results a very strong and slightly flexible product.
My results are in (sorry it took so long – mom of two small children). I modified the recipe a little – instead of flour I used baby powder (other wise that was it). I have made two batches my first batch was kind of lumpy so with the second batch I decided to puree the toilet paper first in batches in the blender (this took about an hour but the clay was much smoother and well worth the time!) I then drained everything on a paper screen and squeezed as much water as possible out of the pulp (it looked like feta). I then followed the recipe with the electric hand held mixer and it worked fantastic. I have photos but couldn’t get them to upload.
Thank you!
I am on a Christmas Ornament roll – hahahaha
Unfortunately, we lost the ability to upload photos when the site crashed. I’m looking for a way to get that functionality back. In the meantime, if you put your photos on a file-sharing site like flickr.com/, you can give us a link to the photos. We would love to see them.
Hi, I am wanting to do a sculture for outside, this is joint community project, using the recipe for the paper mache clay, if I use exterior weather shield paint and then coat with several layers of lacquer, do you feel this would be protected against wet, frosty and snowy temperatures, as this is what it will need to be able to withstand.
Hi Lynne. We’re still experimenting with the weatherproofing. Your ideas sound reasonable, but until we actually try it, we can’t know for sure that the final paint and lacquer will completely protect the piece. My first experiment failed, possibly because of sun damage. My next experiment will use a varnish that has UV protection, and we’ll see how it goes. However, at this point I don’t advise anyone to put a great deal of time and energy into an outside sculpture – at least until we know for sure how to protect them. If you do an experiment, please let us know how it works out.
Hi Lynne, Weatherproofing is a much discussed topic. After much reading and asking questions I have successfully used a Minwax product called Helmsmen Spar Urethane to make some yard art weather resistant, at least.
I used it directly a my toadstool PM project made with both the paper/strip/glue technique and the paper mache clay technique. The toadstools where then painted with acylic paint and 2 more coats of the Helmsmen Spar Urethane applies. This is the 2nd year the 2 toadstools have been outside all summer …so no frosty and snowy temperatures but plenty of rain. I recoated them last winter.
Spar Urethane is stinky stuff and is oil based so cleanup is a pain as well. I did discover a latex based product called Drylock that is made to waterproof masonry walls and basement walls. It comes in quart size up to 5 gallon size containers at Home Depot. I have the white in color quart size and it turns out people that make paper mache Halloween yard art use this stuff to weather protect their sculptures! Drylock would use soap and water to clean up.
I have not tried it yet but my thought was to paint a PM test piece with good quality latex exterior house paint 1st then cover that with the white Drylock then paint it again as the sculpture required. I will try this soon and test it over the winter outside.
In any case don’t let anything sit in standing water if you can avoid it. I made the toadstools with a wire sticking out the sealed bottom of the stem that is then stuck in the ground standing them off the ground by ~ 1/2“ or so.
They also make a clear waterproofing product for concrete. Now that you mention it, I think I have some down in the basement. I wonder if that would work over acrylic paint?
Hi,
Are the surfaces of your projects are smooth? The old recipe I’ve used (including corn flour, newspaper paper and white glue) made my models surfaces rough and wrinkled.
Yes, the clay does make it easier to get a smooth surface, if that’s what you want. You can also smooth out traditional paper and paste sculptures by putting a thin layer of joint compound under the last layer of paper mache. But the clay eliminates the need for all that.
Ooh, I love this pumpkin!~
I agree – it’s got to be one of the creepiest paper mache pumpkins I’ve seen. Good work, Angie and Alex.
We were looking for a Paper Mache Clay to use in some of our projects and decided to give your recipe a try. We’re pleased with the results and plan to use it quite often. I’m adding a picture of a project we used it for.
Fantastic pumpkin!!
hi I’m trying to build a horse head for my school project and I’m not shore if the clay requires a mold or if I can just build it by hand. What should I do? thank you.
You do need an armature. The clay was developed as a replacement for paper strips and paste – it spreads over an armature, which you can make with crumpled paper and masking tape. It will not stand up on it’s own.
i can only find lightweight joint compound… will it work?
Yes, it works.
Jonni,
I am working on a halloween costume and I have a few questions. How thick can I apply a layer of the paper mache clay, and how long will it take to dry? I expect to need multiple layers. Also, after my project is done, what do you suggest as a sealant to protect it? Is there a way to make it water-proof?
Thanks,
Laura
Hi Laura. You can put on as thick a layer as you want, as long as you’re willing to wait for it to dry. A thin layer, say 1/8 inch thick, will usually dry within 24 hours if it’s in a nice warm place. The thicker the layer, the longer you have to give it to dry. The clay will seem perfectly dry on the outside, but may still be damp on the inside. My Joke mask has a very thin layer, 1/8 ” thick, but I think I could throw it on my concrete sidewalk and it wouldn’t crack. The clay is very strong, so you might not need as much as you think you will.
If you only need the costume to stand up to rain on Halloween, I suggest that you use a water-based Verathane or Minwax from the hardware store. If you need it to stand up to long-term weather abuse, I’m still working on that – spar varnish has worked for some people, but my experiment failed. But that was over the full course of a summer, under rain, sun and sprinklers. I doubt your costume will need that type of protection.
Have fun!
Hi Laura, I made 3 toad stools that are outside for the summer, this is their 2nd year. I protected them from the weather with 3 coats of Minwax Helmsmen Spar Urethane found at Home Depot. It is stinky stuff that needs to be used with good ventilation and takes a while to dry. The 1st coat went directly onto the PM as a sealer then they were painted and then 2 more coats of the Helmsmen Spar Urethane. All coats where dry before the next coating was applied.
I consider them to be rain resistant but not exactly “water proof” I have them stand slightly off the ground with a wire standoff extending from the stem. See a painfully detailed description at my web site.
You may need less protection (maybe just a good paint job) for a costume worn for an hour or less but don’t forget the inside as well. If this will be worn for an extended amount of time consider the water vapor (sweat) given off by the human body too. The right design would allow airflow to remove this water vapor and provide more comfort too. Just a thought.
You didn’t mention an armature but someone else here is working on a costume made with a cardboard armature. I suggested getting regular fiberglass window screening material cut to the proper shape and placed between 2 thin layers of Jonni’s clay for strength, some flexibility and lighter weight but I’m not sure that would apply to your effort?
Bob C.
Hi Bob,
Looking for help to make toad stools for a parade float. Any suggestions and how long do they take to dry.
Clarice
Hi Claice,
Toadstools for a parade float sounds like a fun project. I’m sure Jonni and others have ideas too.
Several variable to consider:
1. Temperature and humidity where they are drying (a warmer and dryer place is better than cooler a humid location) A sunny window helps. Rotate your work often.
2. Constructed of paper strips and paste or PM Clay can make a big difference
Two layers of paper/paste strips will dry faster than 4-6 layers and faster than a thicker layer of PM clay. Will it be strong enough or will another two layers be required.
Work on several pieces and have them at different stages so you are always busy also hold them in such a way so as to be able to work on all surfaces at the same time when possible (Make a stand from scrap wood, drill holes slightly bigger than a stiff firm wire, or two, stick one end of the wire(s) in the board with the other end(s) stuck into your creation (small holes are easy to fix). This can cut the drying time in half.
To speed up drying:
If they will fit, placing your creations in an oven for 1-2 hours at 200º F (no higher) has worked for me. I have even experimented with a microwave oven and was encouraged by the result. Make sure there is no metal (like the wire) in your work or you could have a PM fire using a microwave oven.
Pointing a fan or two or even 3 can really reduce drying times, again location is a factor.
Shining an incandescent spotlight or two on your creations can also speed the drying.
Using a fan(s) and lamp(s) in combination.
Have fun!
PS. Hello again Clarice,
Sorry I missed your request about making toadstools.
Please see my web site for a detailed description of the methods I used to make my toadstools, just left click on my name here. I hope you will show us pictures of your efforts.
Is that boiled linseed oil?
Yes. As we’ve recently discovered, you can substitute glycerin for the linseed oil, if it’s easier to find.
hi can you explain what is Joint compound ? i am from israel and would like to find the material. thank you.
miri
The joint compound is the plaster-like material that is used to cover the space between two pieces of plaster board on a new wall. It’s called different things in different countries, but if you follow that link and print out the photo of the compound being used on the wall, your local hardware store clerk should be able to point you in the right direction. The primary ingredient is gypsum or calcium carbonate, which is mixed with water and other ingredients to make a smooth paste.
Jonni- thank you for your answer. is is like wall paper glue? when i prepare my papier mache i combine with the paper also PVA glue and wall paper glue. what do you think? thank you very much, Miri
No, joint compound is more like plaster, but it doesn’t set up when it’s wet, the way plaster does.
Miri, it’s more commonly referred to as “Spackle” if that helps you .It’s a gypsum-based paste.Jonni, nice site! I’m going to try the clay recipe next time I need to make something solid!
They sell both joint compound and spackle, in different containers. Aren’t they different?
Spackling compound and Wallboard compound.
It took 3 search engines to find one (Bing.com) that gave the ingredients to Wallboard compound. (my own tub of it does not list ingredients). Here’s what I found about the difference between Sparkle and Wallboard compound:
What is Spackle?
Spackle is made from gypsum powder and glue and when mixed with water forms a paste used to fill cracks and holes in plaster.
Gypsum is the more common name for a mineral compound called calcium sulphate dihydroxide, or sulphate of lime. Gypsum is generally found underground near deposits of limestone or other minerals formed by evaporation. One of the most common forms of raw gypsum is a pure white crystal called alabaster. Another form of unprocessed gypsum forms in desert terrain and its crystals resemble the petals of a flower. For this reason, many people refer to this form of calcium sulphate as the ‘desert rose’.
What is Wallboard compound (AKA joint compound)?
Wallboard or joint compound is a combination of some or all of the following materials: limestone, dolomite, water, perlite, vinyl polymers and crystalline silica. The combination of these materials gives drywall compound good adhesive properties, limited flexibility, and a hard, smooth surface for painting. When primed and painted, it is almost indistinguishable from the drywall it has been spread on!
Thanks Bob – this is great. It looks like both products have a calcium-based mineral of some kind, plus some form of glue. But the wallboard glue looks a bit more high-tech, which is probably why it makes the paper mache clay spread easily. The joint compound I buy says it contains calcium carbonate, which comes from limestone.
I left my two paper mache rabbits out in the sun while I was painting my garage. I store them in the garage and use them for easter decorations. The sun seemed to deform them. If I leave them in the sun do you think that I can form them again to their original position. They are a gentlemen and a lady about 3 and a half feet tall.
This is something I’ve never tried. If they are hollow inside, you may be able to dampen them, and then carefully push them back into shape. Then fill the hollow space with crumpled paper or expanding foam. But since I’ve never done it myself, I’m not sure it will work. Good luck with it.
The might deform from uneven drying. The sun could have dried the surface too rapidly, leaving the moisture in the underlying material which means more bulk. If you make more sculptures in the future, possibly, low and slow drying in the oven would work, or for larger pieces like your rabbit couple, in a consistently warm (not hot) and dry place.
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