You may be able to help out our growing international online artist community. We need to know what joint compound is called in other countries.
The home-made paper mache clay recipe I created (recipe here) is made with premixed drywall joint compound and Elmer’s Glue-All® as the main ingredients, along with toilet paper and linseed oil.
At least, that’s what they’re called at my local hardware store, here in Oregon.
But joint compound is called something else in other countries, and the Elmer’s brand isn’t available at all in some places. So – I’m hoping you can help out your fellow artists and craftpeople wherever you may live, and help me put together a list of product names for locally available materials that will work to make paper mache clay.
So far, for the joint compound we have:
- “Drywall joint compound” in the United States (guys in the construction industry call it “mud”)
- “Drywall filler” in Canada
- “Joint filler” in the UK
- “Fugenmasse” in Germany
- “Joint finish” in Australia
The product is normally used to fill in the cracks between two pieces of drywall (also called wallboard, sheetrock or plasterboard) when new walls are built or old ones are repaired. The primary ingredient in join compound (in the US) is calcium carbonate. Pure calcium carbonate in dry powder form is sold in art stores as “powdered marble.” But we don’t want the powdered stuff, we want the kind of joint compound that is already mixed up and ready to use. It’s sold in a plastic tub, usually one or five gallons. In the UK the primary ingredient is another form of calcium called” gypsum,” which seems to work just as well.
Just a bit of history–the recipe for paper mache clay happened because I started using a recipe for home-made gesso, which uses Elmer’s Glue-All and powdered marble. The gesso dries very hard, but you can still sand it perfectly smooth. I decided to see what happens when you use a cheaper form of calcium carbonate (the joint compound) and add fine paper (toilet paper) and linseed oil. Voila–paper mache clay was born, a new sculptural medium that’s cheap to make and easy to use.
OK, the glue issue may be more difficult. Elmer’s Glue-All makes wonderful paper mache clay. But Elmer’s Carpenters glue doesn’t work, and their ‘school” brand doesn’t work either.
Laura from Canada tried Lepage White Glue and it did work.
I suspect that a lot of experimentation will be needed to find good substitutes for the Elmer’s Glue-All in other countries–but if you take on the challenge, do buy the smallest container you can find before doing your experiment. If you find a brand that works, please let us know. (If you find ones that don’t work, that would be helpful, too.)
Just so you know why it’s important–if you use the “wrong” glue, the clay looks curdled or dry or flakey, and you can’t use it.
So–can you help us out? Know anyone in the construction or remodeling industry in your country who might be able to come up with the local name for “joint compound?” Your help will be much appreciated by frustrated sculptors everywhere. 
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{ 78 comments… read them below or add one }
Hi, love your site! Here in the UK “Joint Compound” is normally known by the brand name “Polyfiller” or simply “all purpose filler” as the one I use is called. With the Elmers Glue-all, as a substitute I used “Builder’s PVA Adhesive” which works very well as it is strong. I haven’t tried school grade PVA yet! Over here, if you say PVA glue or “white glue” most people should know what you mean!
I have added a link to this site from my very small blog, I hope you don’t mind!
Jo
Thanks! This will be a big help. And wow – great dog sculptures. Did you make them with traditional paper mache, or did you try out my clay recipe?
And yes, of course you can link to this site. I love links.
hi, Im excited about making my own paper clay-I know linseed oil is important just wish it wasnt so expensive-what does the loinseed oil do for the chemistry of the papery clay-keep it moist-Im gonna reply again if thats okay I havent read the above and I have to run out the door peace
I buy a quart of boiled linseed oil at the hardware store for about $7. I’ve had the same container on the shelf for three months, and there’s still some in there. And I’m working on at least one sculpture every day. Don’t buy the oil from the art store – it’s way too expensive.
Hi…
Yes it’s called pre-mixed, redi-mixed – “Drywall joint compound”, “Drywall filler”, “plaster”, “poli-filla” or ” redi-mixed Joint compound”… here in Canada…
One word of advice: after first use of any of the above or even paint in a can… tap the lid on real tight [with a rubber hammer or just stand on it -but be careful], then I store it upside down. This way no air gets inside and it lasts longer…
Or, you can put a plastic bag on before you put the lid on…
Thanks,
David
Excellent, David. Thanks for the info.
I don’t suppose there’s anyone out there with similar info for the product as it’s sold in South Africa? I received an email from a SA artist this morning asking for some help in locating the joint compound and a brand of glue that will work. All help is appreciated.
Looking up White PVA Glue might be the best way for someone to find what brand names are available for anyone in their location.
Just out of curiousity, since you can add sawdust to Elmer’s to get a sort of wood putty, I wondered if it would be a good or bad thing to add sawdust to your Paper Mache Clay?
I can’t answer that one. The sawdust might replace the glue, and make a nice “composition” material instead of a faux paper mache material, but you’d have to give it a try to find out. Have fun with it.
Hi. I have been experimenting with Papier mache for a few months now. I am South African and I use Plaster of Paris and Alcolin Cold glue. It works really well.
This is my recipe which you can try if you like:
4 double sheets newspaper torn into 2cm squares.
Cover with water and leave overnight.
Next day, boil the paper/water mix for 20mins.
when cool, add 2 Tbs plaster of paris
2 Tbs cold glue
2 Tbs boiled linseed oil
Mix well, then add 2 Tbs wallpaper paste.
Hope this helps!
In South Africa the joint compound is pollyfilla
Thanks, Niki.
Dry wall mud in Canada
In Argentina the Joint Compound its called ” enduido” and the Ellmer’s glue is kind of the” Plasticola” ( this is the brand).
Love your clay and I made one last month.My piece is not done yet but it dried very hard :I love it.
The leftover of the clay didn’t last more than a couple of days, I couldn’t find what you suggested to preserve it..
Thanks, Marcela. We’re getting quite a nice collection of terms, and it will really help other artists, I’m sure.
My clay stays good in the container, but I do keep it well covered in a plastic tub with a tight-fitting lid. If your clay began to mold, maybe there is a mold-inhibitors in our enduido/joint compound that is not put in yours.
I’m from Argentina but actually I’m kind of your “neighbor”! : I’m living in Washington, Seattle area and I get the joint compound at the hardware store.
I think that the problem was that I stored it in a Zipploc bag.
Where can I find the chemical you use to preserve it when you don’t use all the clay at once?
Thanks and we all look forward for your book and your success!
Hi Marcela. I don’t add anything to my clay to keep it workable, but I do a lot of sculpting, and I rarely have any left over for more than a week. It might work if you freeze the clay until you need to use it, but I have not tried this. It might cause the ingredients to separate.
Hello there, in México the glue brand it´s called “Resistol” it´s the white all purpose glue, but I´m not sure what´s the joint compound :S it´s the one u use for pasting the ceramic or mosaics (not sure if thats the name in english) to the walls of kitchens or bathrooms? or is it the white cement? or is it plaster? plaster in here is called “yeso”. Im not sure what it is, does anyone knows about it?? :S
Thanks Laura.
I need to clarify what the joint compound is, since it may be easier to tell the clerk at the hardware store what it’s used for than to ask for it by name. I found this website that shows you using the product on walls. The product used to stick tiles down is either a type of glue or a type of cement — you wouldn’t want to use either of those things in your paper mache clay. You also don’t want to use any kind of cement or plaster — both these things and tile grout will harden under water, which means your clay would get hard right in the bowl, and your project (and probably your bowl) would be ruined.
If most of the houses in your area are made with solid cement walls, the local stores might not sell joint compound. I’ll do some more research and see if I can find out more.
A real quick search just turned up a product available in Mexico that contains vinyl. That isn’t what we need. I’ll keep looking.
I just found joint compound in Mexico!… i havent try it yet, but i know it doesnt have vinyl on the formula. Just ask for Ready Mix at Comex paint shop. The brand is Panel Rey.
Perfect – thanks for letting us know. This will be really helpful. I wonder if that brand is available in any of the South American and Caribbean countries? I’ll try to check it out.
the website is http://www.panelrey.com
Great – you’ve done all the research for me. Thanks, Oliver.
Hi Jonni, sorry I couldn’t seem to reply to your response, the box wouldn’t load properly (probably a fault on my end!). All my pieces are made using your recipe. I’ve tried others but haven’t found anything as simple (and cheap!) yet effective as yours. I’ve only just started trying to sell my work and your tips have also helped enormously, even though I don’t know a lot about selling on-line I’m starting to get a little interest! Thanks for sharing all your secrets!
Jo
Congratulations for getting a start on your new business. You’re doing some great things with your sculptures. And thanks for letting me know the blog is slightly broken – I answer comments from inside the admin area, so I don’t know when things aren’t working, unless someone tells me. Frequent upgrades of Wordpress tend to cause themes to break, so I guess that means I need to make some changes. There’s always something….
Hello from Idaho Jonni, we’re nearly neighbors!
~ I’ve noticed a quite confusing vernacular in my area my husband runs a lumber yard, but even he uses 3 or 4 different names for the same product.
So “Drywall” – we call SheetRock usually, is also referred to as gypsum board, wallboard, or plasterboard. But SheetRock is actually just one Brand of this material, which is essentially Gypsum Plaster covered in paper.
The Ready Mix Joint Compound you referenced, has always been “SheetRock Mud” according to my dad, who will also call his very same bucket – “Mud”, “Texture”, “Filler” or “Float”.
Talking about all the nicknames confuses me, so I can only imagine the frustration of artists abroad. Maybe this will help…
I made a small batch of your clay (small because I only had a tiny bit of joint compound on hand & couldnt wait to try it out). I must say, kudos btw it’s Truly FANTASTIC STUFF. Later the same day, it was gone and I wanted more! I used some plain old super-cheap Gypsum from my garden shed, in place of the joint compound. It seemed even smoother to mix and worked just as well as the first batch, for me at least.
It acts just like plaster, and I learned that’s because gypsum plaster =IS= the semi-hydrous form of calcium sulfate (CaSO4·½ H2O)
So maybe if you can find this in your country? Just plain ol’ Gypsum. I bought it in a big bag at the garden center for just a couple of dollars, I believe it’s used to condition hard soil for planting.
Hi Tani. All those names — I’ve discovered that clerks in hardware and lumber yards sometimes only know one of those names for drywall. If you use any other name, they look at you like you’re from Mars. But it doesn’t help to remember which word that particular clerk uses, because another clerk in the same store only knows one of the other words for the same dang item. OK, I’m ranting here.
Fantastic idea you had of using the gypsum. I have a bag of it in my own garden shed. Did you add water or did you just mix in the glue? One big question, though. Plaster will harden, even under water. Will gypsum do the same? Since it’s used as a soil enhancement, I wouldn’t think so–but you know a lot more about it than I do. Now, as soon as I finish trying to fix the things on my blog that the latest Wordpress update broke (and maybe spruce it up a bit) I’ll have to dig out that bag of gypsum and start experimenting again….
I apologize, but have no good excuse for my delayed response, I’m not proud of it but, frankly I can be unreliable at times.
2 words in response to rant; Amen – Sister!
As for the Gypsum, I mixed it with water to the consitancy of the pre-mixed joint compound, and proceeded trying to fool the mixture into accepting my sneaky sub as the real thing.
And about the hardening, I understand the use of gypsum in soil conditioning has to do with promoting moisture tension. In cements, mortars and the like it’s added to prevent ‘flash setting’ (drying by evaporation rather then chemicaly curing). Because by itself this mineral is chalk like, it draws and holds moisture. Once dry it remains quite soft and workable. It will actually still be water soluble, and only becomes less-so gradually when heated. Also I believe that the properties of the pva glue add flexibility to the final form of your ingenius recipe . So my theoretical explanation aside, (and if I wasn’t so wordy) the short answer is “no” it shouldn’t get overly hard.
Since there are so many places where gypsum is mined all over the world, I was thinking that for some it maybe easier to find then the premix. And since it is one base mineral it should (and I use the word “should” here with a comical inflexion) only have ONE name in each language. ~Happy Sculpting!
This is fantastic, Tani. I will definitely do more research and try to find the exact measurements to make the clay work with gypsum instead of joint compound. It should also be possible to make home-made gesso with pure gypsum and PVA glue, instead of buying the more expensive “powdered marble” from the art store. I’ll keep everyone posted.
jonni
i have found that did use the wrong glue and it did turn out so, so, horrible. i will use ONLY elmers from now on. just a bit of info…..
Seems you have quite a fan base all over the world, Jonni! Congratulations!!! Can’t wait to see your book when it comes out. Bet you’re excited!
Hi Ann. Yes, it has been a very interesting adventure. I’m very grateful for all the artists who visit this site, and who were patient with me as I “learned out loud.” If it hadn’t been for all of you, I would still be making paper mache sculptures the way I did 30 years ago. OK — 50 years ago… My first tutorial on this site, the paper mache dragon, used the same techniques I taught myself when I was still messing up my mother’s kitchen with dried-up paste all over the counters and floor. The dragon didn’t come out half bad, in my opinion. But now when I look at him, I know I could have made him better, and easier, with all the new techniques I’ve learned in the last 15 months or so. Putting it all on this blog was a huge incentive to keep learning.
Writing the book challenged me even more, and it’s an experience I recommend to everyone. I can’t wait to have a real copy I can hold in my hands.
Jonni;
I just now recalled that here in the US, you can get a white glue by Ross that’s VERY close to Elmer’s. But, it is only around half the price of Elmer’s. It might be worth while seeing if it works just as well in you paper mache clay.
That brand isn’t available where I live. If anyone experiments with it, please let us know how it works. And thanks Elaine, for the suggestion.
Jonni!
A question from far away, which will probably be all Greek to you. I’m really keen on trying out your fantastic-sounding paper mache clay recipe but have no idea what is the equivalent of Elmer’s Glue-All or joint compound in Greece. I’m hoping some Greek-American or Greek-Canadian (or just plain Greek!) has been following this discussion. Elmer’s glue seems pretty close to Atlacol (this would ring a lot of bells in Greece). Also, could ‘stocos’ (stucco?) be similar to joint compound? On the gypsum issue, we’ve got lots of that in Greece (called ‘gypsos’ here), so it would really be helpful if Tani shared her measurements with us! I also look forward to reading about your own experiments with gypsum, Jonni!
Hi Rania. The stucco sounds like cement or plaster, which would not work. The clay would get hard right in the bowl (and in your pipes if you cleaned the bowl in the sink).
I am unable to find gypsum here in my town that is ground fine enough to experiment with. I did buy what was available, but I’ll have to put it on my lawn, not in my sculptures. If you can find powdered calcium carbonate, also called powdered marble or chalk (it’s what they use to make lines on football fields) you could experiment with it. Just put in enough water to make the consistency of thick pudding, and then add the other ingredients.
To find joint compound, go to the hardware store and ask them if they sell sheets of plasterboard for covering walls. They may call it something different, but if you describe it that way, they should know what you mean. If they do, ask them for the product people use to cover the cracks between the sheets of plasterboard. That’s the stuff you want.
How about it, readers – do you know what glue brand will work and is available in Greece?
I just now finished an experiment, using powdered calcium carbonate. This is very similar to gypsum, and should work the same way. One thing I discovered is that joint compound is definitely better, perhaps because it contains fillers and binders that help make the clay smoother. So my advice is to keep searching for the joint compound. There’s a lot of construction going on in Greece, so they have to have joint compound available somewhere. Good luck in finding it, and the glue.
Hi Jonni! Thanks so much for your very helpful answer. After lots of web searching I managed to track down the only purveyor of joint compound in Greece. Now, the guy asks me whether I want the lightweight or the heavyweight version. Do you have any suggestions as to what is best?
Hi Rania. I think you’re in luck, because either form of joint compound should work. If you have a choice, I’d grab the heavyweight version. Just steer away from anything that is labeled “fast drying.”
Now that the hard work is done – go have fun and make some art!
Hello Jonni,
Thank you for this helpful website!
I am so excited to grab so much information here.
I would like to ask what’s the difference between lightweight and heavyweight joint compound…??
Beside,
What is the average price for the 5 gal of joint compound?
Thank you.
Hi Louis. I’m not sure what the different ingredients are in the two kinds of joint compound. I usually buy the “regular” joint compound, but my dad tried the “lightweight” kind in his paper mache clay, and it worked just fine. There must be a difference, but I don’t know what it is….
Here in my local hardware store (and the local WalMart, too) a 5 gallon bucket of joint compound costs about $6.
Wow…..only $6?? I believe that the price of $6 should be for the 1 gal bucket….5 gal is supposed to cost more than $10….
Could you plese double check the prices for me?
Thank you.
Oh yes – of course you’re right. I read your comment to quickly.
We can get the larger 5 gallon bucket here for about $12, but the price may be different at your local store. It would be best to give them a call and ask them.
Dear Jonni,
I am just starting making my own paper mache clay and I just wanted to let you know, that “joint compound” in Germany is called “Fugenspachtel”.
People from Germany should go to a so called “Baumarkt” and ask for “Rigips” (this is the major brand in Germany).
Ingredients: VARIO Fugenspachtel is a high plastic-improved gypsum-based filler as per DIN EN 13963 / Typ B4. (just one of them)
One will have to make a decision between about 20 different types of “Fugenspachtel”
I haven’t found a PVA-glue yet – but if so – I will leave a short message here.
Thanks, Anne. This info is very helpful.
Hello Jonni,
it’s me again – as promised. I have contacted Germany’s largest glue-manufacturer. They told me that “Ponal” would be suitable. It is a white PVA-glue. It is a glue mostly used with wood.
I hope that this is the right one
Anne
Having just finished the chicken wire structure of my ‘full-size’ baby elephant, I was delighted to find your clay recipe – thanks so much for sharing. I then went and Googled what exactly joint compound was (I’m in the UK) and the search threw up – yes you’ve guessed it – this page! Very helpful indeed.
Hi Jonni,
thank you for share the recipe, I have a human size proyect, when finish this dream Iwill send you a photo.
I´m from México, and I found a “joint compound” in my country Home Depot called “Compuesto Ready Mix” by Panel Rey. The glue I think is the called “Resistol blanco” and the PVA is called “cola blanca de carpintero”.
I hope be helpfull for the spanish ppl.
Blessings and congratulations for your beautifuls creations!
Thank you, Claudia. This will definitely be helpful. Much appreciated.
Hi,i can’t find the joint compound here. Can i use another thing? i know about gypsum..but am not really sure..help? i live in Dominican republic by the way,and thaaanks!
Hi Stephanie. I haven’t experimented with any product except joint compound so I don’t know if something else will work. However, it is likely that they sell joint compound in the Dominican Republic – even if houses are made with concrete walls, they must use plaster board on the walls of hotels and resorts.And if they use plasterboard, they have to use something to cover the tape between the boards. But of course they’ll call it something different there.
I found a site that listed a few words that are used in Spanish for construction terms:
Tapear – to tape drywall joints
Sandear – to sand down the drywall joints
Skimear – to skim joint compound
You might take these terms to a construction supply store and ask for the stuff they “skimear” on the walls. Hopefully, they won’t laugh, since I think those are made-up words…
I’m sorry I haven’t been more helpful. If you do find out what the product is called there, please let me know so I can add it to our list.
I haven’t found it yet. i did an experiment yesterday and did it without it,it came nice,the only thing i want now its something to make it more smooth..i did it without the oil,do you have any suggestion,or just adding the oil will be enought? also,can i add salt to the flower to prevent mold? (i live in a very hot climate,but i need to make sure.
Bob adds salt, and he says it helps prevent mold. I’m sorry you still haven’t found the joint compound.
I use a damp knife to apply my clay, and that makes a very smooth surface, but I know you haven’t been able to make the recipe with all the ingredients. You might try adding some more flour and water, but you would need to do some experiments to see if it works. What you’d need is something smooth that acts as a filler between the bits of paper.
Hi Jonni,
Here in Queensland Australia, I’ve been able to buy a tub of gyprock joint compound. And some general purpose pva glue.
The only problem I’ve had with converting your recipe was with the toilet roll – the one I used had about double the amount of paper you used! I just scooped a large handful of mushy paper out, and the result was fantastic. Thankyou!
Hi Jonni
I love your website and I have shared it on my Facebook page.
When I found your paper mache clay I was overjoyed, it is just the perfect solution for my project. However, I live in the UAE and I when went looking joint compund in our local hardware store I found Lite Spakle and their own brand joint compound. I’m not sure what everyone else is using, but when I looked at the ingredients list and hazard data it was enough to scare the pants off you. The stuff here is full of nasty nasties that apparently cause breathing difficulties, skin problems and even fertlity problems….. Is there a les toxic equivalent that I can use? Or am I looking at the wrong thing? I’m sorry to say that the staff in the shop were clueless and there is the language barrier to overcome here as well.
I soooo want to make and use your paper mache clay, please help, anyone…
Kind Regards to all
Christiane
Hi Christiane. Bob just sent us a list of the ingredients in the Spackle and Joint Compound that is sold here in the states. There are warning labels on our joint compound buckets, too – you don’t want to breath the dust, for the same reason that you don’t want to breath any dust. It gets in your lungs, and might not come out. That’s why I recommend using a mask if you sand your sculptures.
I don’t know if there are any less toxic products available in the UAE – they may have different manufacturing standards than we do.
I’ve found a website that seems to span many countries and has Elmer’s Glue All for sale. At the foot of the page you choose your country (US, Canada, UK, New Zealand/Australia or India).
Although priced in $, it does seem to be OK for the UK (and other countries) to order from… although I’ve not tried it.
This is the link to the page that has it http://www.teachersparadise.co.uk/ukstore/elmers-glueall-4-oz-bottle-p-1472.html – as you can see, the url contains the encouraging words ukstore.
It’s $2.11 (so about £1.50) for a small bottle, or they’ll sell you 8oz, a quart or a gallon of it ($23.24). I tried adding it to the checkout to see how much delivery is, but you have to join (so I didn’t bother right now). It says delivery is 1-3 days.
I hope that helps somebody. Elmer’s comes up quite a lot in a lot of craft things.
Thanks, Angela!
well… I think it’s “fog massa” in Swedish and “saumalaasti” or “saumamassa” in Finnish…
and the glue… I’m a bit uncertain about the wood glue not working. I thought all pourable, water soluble non-toxic “milk glues” as I call them worked… I don’t have the slightest idea what Elmer’s school glue or all-glue could be replaced be in Sweden or in Finland. I need to experiment
Thanks! When you find the glue that works, I hope you’ll let us know which brand you bought. Any PVA glue should work.
Ready-mixed plaster or filler? I hope we’re referring to the same thing here. It usually comes in a tub or container.
I never use plaster in my paper mache clay, although some people have experimented with it. I use the ready-mixed joint compound (drywall filler), that comes in a tub.
I think in Portugal the term is “Argamassa”
http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argamassa
http://www.apfac.pt/layout.asp?area=3000
Rui, I checked that link to wikipedia, and it looks like the term is referring to grout. Grout contains Portland cement, but joint compound does not. Joint compound is made from calcium carbonate, which does not harden by chemical reaction. It simply dries slowly to become hard. I don’t think that argamassa would work in the clay recipe, but it would be interesting to see if anyone has experimented with it.
Hi. I was planning on using your paper mache recipe for a school project. But im not actually sure what joint compound is called here in the Philippines. I tried asking some people and i came up with 2, either “masilya” or “polyester glazing putty/glazing putty”. Is that correct? Can i use that for the paper mache? Hope you answer, thanks
Donica, I don’t think the products you’ve found are going to work. It sounds like they’re the kind used in plumbing. I suggest that you do a search on YouTube for “joint compound” so you can see how the product is used on walls. Then you’ll be able to go to the hardware store and explain it. It’s also possible that drywall (plasterboard, sheetrock) isn’t used to make walls in the Philippines, and if that’s the case you wouldn’t be able to find the product we use in the clay.
Hi, and thanks for the reply. My dad actually found it, it was called “Gypsum Joint Compound”. I was wondering if linseed oil is really needed for the recipe ?
The linseed oil is not necessary, you can leave it out and the clay will still work just fine.
Good afternoon, I’m João and live in Portugal-Europe.
I have been watching your videos, and liked very much.
About the “Joint Compound”…. well, as i understood, it’s a mix of Gypsum (Gesso in Portugal) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum; White Glue and Poli-vinyl ingredients. These last ones create a mixture malleable; aggregate and with the gypsum more paste and white.
I couldn’t find the “Joint Compound” on the stores, but i hope till the end of the month i will have one substitute.
The mixtures are usually compound of 3 elements…. one Alfa; one Beta and the element to join both.
The Water and the White Glue are the join, Paper the Alfa and white flour the Beta, the linseed oil and joint compound are elements to modify the initial mixture, giving her different proprieties.
The linseed oil (Óleo de Linhaça here in Portugal), is used in painting oil canvas, to mix with the pigments; it could be used to polish antique furniture, to impermeability some woods…etc…easy to find.
White Glue must be normal, because there are some with Plastic ingredients to make more strong that will change the final misture.
***Attention and HealthCare*** (sorry for this, but for professional reasons, i have to write this)
Normally the PVA or PVC mixtures have always some restricts to healthcare, and they should be point of attention. They used pigments to plasticize the mixes, that are absorbed by our body (on the skin). If you do a search on the web you will find elements.
The gypsum in its powder state should be handled with a dust mask.
Sorry for this testament but i’m always…. like me.
Congratulations for the excellent Site, videos and help for artists development.
Kisses from Portugal
Hi there!
I’ve been going around and trying out different joint compounds. Just wanted to post my findings so far. (for the Philippines at least)
Best joint compound Ive found so far is
Pioneer Pro’s Painter’s Buddy Ready Mixed Joint Compound (249,75php 5kg) (and believe me this is hard to find. I’ve been in 4 branches of Ace Hardware and found only 1 that has it… they only had 2 in stock AND it was old stock… the stuff was a bit hard T^T.)
PYE Ready Mixed Surface Joint Compound (199.75php 1.5kg) Sticky stuff and it comes with it’s own small plastic scraper.
Bostik Gypsum Putty Ready Mixed Joint Compound (74.75php 1kg) Even stickier than PYE. This one is the easiest to find. I’ve been reading about these joint compound and saw that some brands have linseed oil already in it. Also comes with a small scraper.
(I tried this with my news paper. It gets real sticky when mixing but then after a while the stickiness lessens a lot.)
I can’t gauge how fast they get hard. The weather here suddenly changed from sunny to rainy. That might have slowed down the drying x.x
All of these are from Ace Hardware stores in the metro Manila area.
Thanks, Andie. This will be a huge help to other artists in the Philippines.
Hi I´m from Mexico and I can´t find the joint compound at my city, neither the product that Oliver says, will Metylan universal plasterfiller work?, I really want to try making a sculpture with your awsome mix
Wait!! I think I founded it! It´s called “Redimix” by “Tablaroca” actually It´s manufactored by the same company at USA, but they kind of “translate” the name of the brand from “sheetrock” to “tablaroca”, Ups! it seems like they only sell 25 kg buckets!, thanks a lot for showing us how to make such a versatile mix I will try my best!.
I’m glad you found it. But it’s sad that they only sell it in such huge buckets. I wonder why? Maybe you have a neighbor who has a half-full bucket out in his garage, and he’d let you have some.
hi
mr.Jonni,
i am doing paper clay fist time. can i use fevicol insted elmer glue and gipsum insted joint compound…
pls reply
nilakshi
india
Hi Nilakshi. I have never used the products you mention, so I don’t know if they will work. The only way to find out is to do a small experimental batch, and see. I’ve heard from other artists in India that it is almost impossible to find the clay ingredients there. If you do find a mix of ingredients that do work, please let us know.
hi
jonni
i was complite my first paper mache-clay art work with the help of local product (fevicol and gipsum n hand made paper ) i am submitting images of that art work…one is haning night lamp.. n onother is Lord ganesha(God of Hindu).
i hope u like it.
tnx a lot
Very nice! Thanks for sharing your work with us.