Paper Mache Recipes

565 comments



Update: 1/5/10: I have been messing around with paper mache for over 50 years and up until a few months ago I always came back to the easiest paper mache recipes, using plain old white flour and water paste with torn strips of newspaper.

Now, however, I have abandoned the traditional layered paper process and use my new paper mache clay recipe for all my sculptures. This is an easier way to paper mache, but it isn’t a non-toxic recipe – so for younger artists or for those who really don’t want to make the trip to the hardware store, these following recipes work just fine.

Paper Mache Paste Recipe:

Paper Mache Recipe #1

Paper Mache Recipe #1

White flour and water make a remarkably strong paste. In fact, some folks think paper mache is strong enough to build houses with. Your finished sculptures might not be strong enough to hold up a house, but you can sand them and drill them, just like wood.

Boiled Flour and Water Paste:

Many people use a paste that is made of white flour and water that has been brought to a boil. I did some experimenting and found that this paste is not as strong as raw paste, so you’ll need more layers of paper to make your finished sculpture stiff enough. However, it does dry clear, so many people prefer it. To make boiled paste, mix a heaping tablespoon of white flour with a cup of water in a small saucepan and stir until there are no lumps. Put the pan on the stove at medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and allow to cool. The paste will be very runny at this stage, but it will gell as it cools.

Raw Flour and Water Paste:

This is the paste I almost always use, because it’s stronger than boiled paste and you can complete a project with only a few layers of paper. To make up the paste, just pour some white flour in a bowl, and add water gradually until you have a consistency that will work well. (Use a small kitchen mixer so you don’t have any lumps).

How thick should you make your paste? It’s actually up to you. Experiment with thick pastes that resemble hotcake batter, and thin pastes that are runny and watery. You get to decide which ones you prefer.

Keep in mind that it is the flour, and not the water, that gives strength to your paper mache sculpture. And also remember that each layer of paste and paper that is added to your project must dry completely to keep it from developing mold.

Speaking of mold, why not use wallpaper pastes that contain fungicides? There are two reasons why I choose to use white flour pastes, instead of ingredients that prevent mold. First, white flour is ridiculously cheap when compared to any other type of art supply. And second, I hate the idea of dipping my hands in something that contains poison. If small children were helping me with my projects, this would be even more important.

To prevent the development of mold in your projects, you just need to remember that molds cannot grow without water. Therefore, take every effort to dry out your projects completely. I usually put my small sculptures in a warm oven (not over 200 F) or place them near a radiator. Next summer I intend to build a solar dryer that will be large enough for bigger items. The main trick is to make sure the sculpture is dry all the way through – if any dampness is left inside when you apply paint or other finish, the sculpture will eventually rot from the inside out – a truly disappointing development, I assure you.

Paper Mache Recipe #2

Paper Mache Recipe #2

Paper Mache Recipe #2:

I like to add a ‘skin’ to most of my paper mache projects. To do this, I sand the sculpture after it is completely dry (paper mache can be sanded, sawn and drilled – just like wood). I then mix some carpenter’s glue into my flour and water paste. I sometimes add coloring, as you can see in the photo above. You can use powdered pigments (for the orangutan mask I used powered coloring used for concrete, which is available at a hardware store). You could also add acrylic paints to this paste recipe.

The carpenter’s glue adds a warm color to the paste and prevents it from cracking when it dries. If you add several layers of this paste to the outside of your projects and sand between coats, you can create a completely smooth surface that is perfect for painting or finishing. I leave this last layer off when I want the underlying paper to show through on the finished item, like the paper mache piggy bank.

Papers to Use for Paper Mache:

The traditional paper to use for paper mache is newspaper, which is torn into short strips. (Cut edges should be avoided, because they don’t blend in.) Newspaper is cheap, and it is a soft paper that is easy to bend and mold around a sculpture.

However, you can also use brown kraft paper from paper bags, which will give your sculpture a naturally warm color if the piece is left unpainted.

You can also use softer papers, like paper towels and even tissue paper. The softer papers are used to fashion delicate details, and textured paper towels can be used to add an interesting final coat. The paper mache dragon on this site used the bumpiness of paper towels to represent the dragon’s leathery skin.

Gesso Recipes:

I make my gesso using about 3 parts joint compound, 1 part Elmer’s Glue-All, and some white acrylic paint if I want the gesso nice and white. The paint isn’t really needed. You can apply a coat of this gesso, sand it or use a lightly damp sponge to smooth it out, and then add another layer if the surface still isn’t smooth enough.

For a thicker home-made gesso, you can use calcium carbonate (powdered marble) and white glue. The traditional proportions are 2 parts PVA glue (Elmer’s or an archival book-binder’s PVA glue if you worry about pH), 4 parts water, and 8 parts calcium carbonate. To make it nice and white, add 1 part powdered titanium or zinc white pigment. If you want to thicken the gesso to cover bumps faster, you can use more powdered marble. I buy the powdered marble and the powdered white pigment online from Blick’s.

Finishing Your Paper Mache Sculpture:

You can use any type of paint on your sculpture. I usually use acrylic craft paints, and a final glaze made from water-based Verathane mixed with a bit of brown, or copper paint from the craft store. This final coat is put on with a brush and then immediately rubbed off with a paper towel, leaving the darker color in the dips and valleys of the sculpture. I happen to like the effect, but it is certainly not required.

Another way to make the paste:

If you don’t want to mess with flour and water, and you don’t mind spending the money for some Elmer’s glue, I found this video for a glue-based paper mache paste that you might want to use instead.

{ 555 comments… read them below or add one }

Leah July 22, 2011 at 2:37 pm

Okay, so i have come up with a new way to do paper mache! The other day i decided to try something new. i cut up the newspaper into tiny peices and then put it in the blender. i added water untill it was just over the top of the pile of newspaper and blended it up. then i added about 2/3 cup flour and blended that into it as well. it made a cool goop sort of thing that works wonders! all you have to do is get a handful and smear it on your project. it takes a little longer to dry than normal paper mache, but it takes less coats to finish a project. Also, it dries extremely hard, and if you put it on right, verry smooth. i have found it is great for pinatas and the beaver i am working on with this stuff is coming along great, too. the texture differs depending on how well you blend it, but i have found a way to make it perfect for a beaver fur texture, by mixing it on shred and pulse in my blender for about 3 min. sparadically. i havent taken measurements, but it doesnt seem to need it. i hope you all enjoy the new recipe and give it a go!
~Leah

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Jonni July 22, 2011 at 7:04 pm

Interesting! I’ll have to give it a try. It sounds almost like paper gravy. ;)

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Leah July 29, 2011 at 3:38 pm

That’s exactly what it looks like!! funnily enough, i was making some while my brother’s friend was over and he saw me blending it up and thought i was making a smoothie or something. Anyway, i poured it into a bowl and he came up and got a big fingerful and stuck it in his mouth!! he made a hilarious face and spit it out and said, “That is THE WORST smoothie i have ever had!”

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Rene October 12, 2011 at 3:28 pm

How much paper did you use?

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Shannon October 20, 2011 at 10:37 pm

Do you think you could use it as a dip if you had enough of it like with balloons?

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Tootsie November 17, 2011 at 2:54 pm

After the comment about him eating some I thought you meant as a dip for crisps etc lol

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Jade July 31, 2011 at 5:08 pm

this paper mache worked out perfectly, and i’m entering my paper mache in a fair!!

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Jonni August 1, 2011 at 9:40 am

Congratulations! I’m glad it worked out so well. Do you have some photos so we can see?

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Mr leon crompton August 2, 2011 at 5:33 pm

Hi folks my Name is Leon from the UK, iam gonna try all these recipes and ides……. This is one of the more informative recipes i have online,.
Thanks………

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Carmelina August 4, 2011 at 7:32 pm

http://www.dropmocks.com/mYYOj
heheheh Would you all think?

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Jonni August 5, 2011 at 7:52 am

Wow – that’s a very inventive pumpkin. I love it when we get to see more than one view – thanks for sharing.

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Dawn October 21, 2011 at 6:00 am

That is so awesome! I love the textures and the way it’s painted!

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Jordel August 31, 2011 at 11:28 am

hey guys im doing a island diagram an this website was very helpful! i just wanted to say thanks everyboy for you ideas!!!

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george cook September 2, 2011 at 5:53 am

how can i get the dried paper mache sculpture off of a clay form that has been thru a kiln

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Jonni September 2, 2011 at 7:46 am

Do I understand that you put paper mache clay over pottery-type clay, and then put them in a kiln? Must not be, since the heat would probably burn off the paper mache clay. So, if you put paper mache clay over a fired piece and let it dry, and now want to remove it, the only thing I can suggest is to soak it in a tub of water for as long as it takes. Which might be quite a while.

If you wanted to use the clay item as a temporary armature, and you want the paper mache clay to remain intact as a piece of art but without the clay inside, I hope you used a really good release. If so, you could use a razor blade to cut the paper mache into several pieces, and then gently lift it off the clay underneath, and then put the pieces back together with glue or more paper mache clay.

Good luck.

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joe bullock September 7, 2011 at 2:19 pm

There is a papier mache/clay I’ve used for several years. It dries hard as a brick; it’s capable of sanding, drilling, sawing…almost anything! Materials needed: newspaper, water, Elmer’s glue, blender, plastic zip-lock baggie. Place about 1/2 the blender full of torn newspaper; fill blender with water until about 1/3 full. Blend on liquefy until paper is pulverized to a fine pulp. Drain out water and then, using your hands, squeeze out as much water as possible and place the pulp into a zip-lock baggie. Add Elmer’s glue to the pulp and kneed like you would bread. The more glue you use, the stronger the clay upon drying. I have used about a 1/2 cup to a baggie/pulp. This clay/papier mache takes longer to dry than a day, and it will shrink as it dries.
My classes have used this to cover baloons, make sculptures, masks as well as wall hangings.

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michael December 2, 2011 at 3:40 am

hi i think you paper ache is hard but if i made some menature is it easy to break wen wet?i mena if i accedently my yourng brother fill a glass of water to minature is it easy to break appart?

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Lindsay September 12, 2011 at 11:02 am

I am about to make a halloween mask from paper mache and was wondering how many layers I need to use of paper mache and how long I need to let the layers dry before applying the next layer.

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Jonni September 12, 2011 at 5:20 pm

The number of layers depends on how strong you need it to be. If you intend to wear the mask, you’ll probably need at least 8 layers. Some people dry each layer before reapplying another one. Others put on two or three layers and then let them dry. Each new wet layer will soak into the layers below, so it’s really a matter of personal choice, I think.

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Lkn5114 September 12, 2011 at 2:47 pm

Hi – I am helping my daughter to create a paper mache ziggurat with a temple on top. The base needs to look like a desert mountain. I was considering adding a colored “skin” like you had mentioned above. Could I add actual sand to the top of the wet “skin” layer for texture and color? Or would that be a huge mess? Do you have any other suggestions for creating a dirt/sand appearance? Thank you for your help. Your website is really well organized and looks great – beautiful art work, too.

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Jonni September 12, 2011 at 5:17 pm

Yes, the sand should look quite nice. You could use white glue instead of paste for that purpose, too.

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The Flyer Guys September 16, 2011 at 3:38 pm

Hello all. We are trying to construct a mascot head out of paper mache. We used a exercise ball that’s about 28″ around. We were wondering just how many layers does it take to make this thing sturdy. So far there are 5 layers, but there are still soft spots or voids. Is there something we’re doing wrong? Our paste is made of flour, water and elmers glue (3-2-2 ration) and we’re using paper towels instead if newspaper. Is there something stronger out there? Perhaps guaze? Thinker/thinner paste?

Currently the project is in the garage. Could that slow down drying? We started this a week and a half ago and it still has soft spots. Any help would be appreciated.

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Jonni September 16, 2011 at 3:44 pm

Hi guys. With a project this big, you’ll need at least 8 to ten layers to get a really stiff and strong paper mache. The paste you’re using will dry very hard and strong, so it might be the paper towels that’s making it soft. Assuming, of course, that it’s completely dry. Paper mache has no strength at all until it’s dry.

If you add a few layers of newspaper, or even heavy brown paper using the paste you’re currently using, it should make your piece strong enough. You’ll also want to find a fan so you get some air moving over the wet paper mache. Paper towels are designed to hold water, and that might be slowing things down. You need to dry the piece as quickly as possible so mold doesn’t find it.

Good luck! I hope you’ll let us see it when it’s done.

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Brian October 22, 2011 at 4:21 pm

Do you know what I use and it makes it really strong. Inbetween every layer I take some tissure paper (not the kind in the bathroom) ha ha. I use the kind you use to wrap in those gift bags that look like sacks. Put a couole of layers of that after each layer and it will be really strong. I found this out by accident, it was laying there and I was out of paper at the moment and I couldn’t believe it, it worked. Thy that out. ope it works for you.

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Scott September 24, 2011 at 10:49 am

I am working on a Halloween project, with my wife, and am planning to use paper mache to make a mold for use with spray foam insulation. Would the paper mache hold up as a mold in this case? What is the average drying time before it fully solidifies? This is a very helpful guide and was kinda hoping someone might have the answers to my questions. Thanks.

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Jonni September 24, 2011 at 1:04 pm

Scott, the spray foam can exert a lot of pressure against the walls of whatever cavity it’s placed in. If there are plenty of excape routes for it, it might work without distorting or breaking your paper mache mold. You would need a pretty strong paper mache wall, at least 8 to ten layers thick, and possibly more, which will take two to four days to dry.

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Jeni September 26, 2011 at 11:49 am

I’d like to make a paper mache birdbath (for a kids craft, not to be actually used as one with water in it) and was going to use the underside of a large plastic bowl as a mold to apply the paper and paste to. Will I be able to release it from the bowl? Is there something I can rub on the bowl beforehand to make this easier? Thanks!

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ann November 6, 2011 at 11:06 am

Hi Simply smear on some vaseline. That will do the trick.

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Jt October 17, 2011 at 11:34 pm

I would like to know what type of mâché would work best for molding a human body. Also what could I mix to put in mold so that I could make the final product more stable to be put on a wall for a wall sculpture. Any tips will do.

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Jonni October 18, 2011 at 7:36 am

JT, you might want to check out one of our recent guest posts, you can find it here. The author did a fabulous job, and he used my paper mache clay recipe. You can also use traditional paper strips and paste, although it will take a bit longer. All paper mache is very strong, as long as you make enough layers and allow it to dry completely all he way through.

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Angie October 18, 2011 at 1:37 pm

Hello! I’m very much a recycling fanatic, and have a big box of shredded paper from work I’d like to use for project. Will your clay recipe still work with shredded paper?

Thanks!

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Jonni October 18, 2011 at 3:14 pm

Yes, it will work, but you’ll need to give the paper a lot more time to soften before mixing it in. Some people put it in boiling water, but you can just let the paper soak for several hours. It should mix in well when you can easily pull the wet paper pieces apart.

Good luck – and let us know how your project turns out.

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Angie October 24, 2011 at 12:10 pm

Thanks so much! If it turns out well, I’ll include pictures. If not…I’ll just send a frowny face haha!

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Kathy January 3, 2012 at 2:42 am

Shredded copy paper from work is all I use!!! That and cardboard of all shapes and sizes, hardly any of my projects contain anything off the shelf.

I use a hot water, flour and elmer glue mix for my paste and I also add in various colors depending on what my desire is. this woeks very well. I do not soak the paper but I do spritz it down with hot water. I mix the paste in still hot, cover it for about a half hour and then it is ready to mold, shape, cover or just what ever one can think of.

Once I have my shapes, I normally place them in a 170 degree oven for a few hours until the outer skin is hard, then I let them air dry for a couple of days. For larger pieces, I just let them air dry setting them in the sun whenever possible. These have turned out structurally very hard and sturdy; and yes they are sandable, cutable and can be finished with a variety of finishes. I usually use a spay type of urethane finish to seal everything once I’m finished.

This is almost like the “clay” recipes but it has a much more texured and rough surface, much like stucco, but it can also be smoothed with a putty knife just like drywall mud.

This is a great website, keep up the great tips!! Many thanks!!

Kathy

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daniel October 18, 2011 at 5:05 pm

can i use marmolite marble dust for used in construction with cements ?for a strong glase surfice on mask making? how to mix for thismarble surfice look?

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Jonni October 18, 2011 at 6:02 pm

I am not familiar with that product. Marble dust can be used to make gesso, as described in the post, so it will probably work. You might need to do an experiment and see what happens.

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Kat October 19, 2011 at 6:26 pm

I am making my sons Halloween costume, I need to make a “can” shaped costume. Can the paper mache be place on chicken wire to hold that curved shape I need?

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Jonni October 19, 2011 at 8:59 pm

Yes, chicken wire can be used as an armature for paper mache. You’d need to be extra careful about making sure none of the sharp points would stick out and scratch your son when he wears the costume. You could also use a big piece of cardboard bent into a can shape, and cover that with paper mache. Safety is really the primary concern with this sort of costume.

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Brian October 22, 2011 at 4:08 pm

No, do not use cardboaard with paper mache’, I made that mistake all it does is just wrinkle it. On the costume I wouldn’t use chicken wire, I woud use very light plastic tubing on the top and the bottom, that will make a better shape and keep your son from gett hurn by the wire. Try that.

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Mindy Sager October 20, 2011 at 9:03 am

Hello! Like the group above making a mascot head over an exercise ball I’m doing the same with a halloween costume head but I’m using the “clay” recipe. The ball is totally covered now (except for the head hole of course.) What I want to know is will I need more than one layer of the clay for strength? It is surprisingly heavy when its wet!

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Jonni October 20, 2011 at 11:28 am

Mindy, I’ve never used the clay for a hollow project that big. What I would suggest is that you wait until the clay is completely dry and then you should get a very good feel for how strong it is. Depending on how thickly you applied the goo, one layer may be all you need. Please let us know how it turns out.

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ryann October 20, 2011 at 10:33 am

I am so inspired and in love with your process. Building my new house right now!

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Brian October 22, 2011 at 4:05 pm

My comment is that I have obtained a mache’ recipe, this is more of a cooking method and takes a bit to make but it is like cement when you put it on your project.

Take one cup of water and put in a small saucepan, use 1/4 or 1/2 of flour and mix til the lumps are out. Heat on medium til it boils, in the meantime take a larger saucepan and boil five cups of water. When everything has boiled then add the flour mixture to the water and make sure you remove it from that burner, put it on the burner that is on medium heat and turn up to just below medium high, stirring constantly, when the mixture comes to a slight boil again set timer for three minutes and boil til timer goes off.

When that happens take off burner and put on one that is not on and let it cool usually overnight, bt in the meantime you need to stir every 15 minutes or so.

That is what I use.

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Jonni October 22, 2011 at 4:11 pm

Thanks, Brian.

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Carol October 23, 2011 at 2:49 pm

Using the glue and water (1:1) recipe for a large round head, how solid/hard does it need to be before popping the balloon? It doesn’t have to be sturdy, just strong enough to hold it’s shape on someone’s head for a picture. I have a deadline looming!
Thanks!

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Jonni October 23, 2011 at 4:57 pm

Hi Carol. You might be able to tell if the paper mache is hard enough by pressing on it, or by carefully lifting up the edge and feeling how dry it is. If there’s very much give, it may be too soon. This is a tough call – it depends on how many layers, the temperature and humidity of the room, etc. You can speed things up a lot if you put the piece in front of a fan. Your mask may feel perfectly dry on the outside, but will probably still be wet next to the balloon – you might need to put the inside facing the fan when you pop the balloon, so your model won’t get glue all over his face.

Good luck – and I hope we can see how your project turns out.

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kim October 23, 2011 at 5:00 pm

I am making a paper mache minion from despicable me, I am using acrylic paint, but it seems to be cracking in some areas. What am I doing wrong and how can I correct the problem.

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Jonni October 24, 2011 at 9:34 am

Kim, did you let your minion dry completely before using the paint? I’m wondering if the paper mache might be shrinking just a little under your paint.

I’ve never run into this problem, so I might not be the best one to answer the question. Does anyone else have some suggestions for Kim? (You might also want to join the Yahoo Paper Mache Art group. They have a very active membership, and they’re all really helpful.)

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Bmaskmaker November 4, 2011 at 1:48 pm

Sometimes you can get cracking in paint if the surface is a little dusty or dirty also. Have you been sanding it? Or sanding something else in the vicinity?

You can try wiping the piece down with a damp cloth or tack cloth (but then you’d probably want to let it dry again before painting.

– b

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michael December 2, 2011 at 3:51 am

hi im new here i been reading the forums may i ask a question after making minature w/ clay can i sand it to get smoth surface?

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Jonni December 2, 2011 at 9:30 am

Michael, the clay is very strong, but I’ve never used it without an armature. So – I don’t know if you could use it to make miniature items, modeling it like “real” clay. You could give it a try and find out. And, if you do, please let us know if it works.

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Alice October 23, 2011 at 7:51 pm

I am looking to make a topper for my daughter’s birthday cake. The “Mickey Mouse Clubhouse”, is what she is insisting to have on top. I wanted to know if I could make shapes out of aluminum foil, and put the paper mache around it to make the things I need? Can I leave the foil inside the shape after it is dry? Also, what is the best glue to use to attach my shapes to each other after they have dried?

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Jonni October 24, 2011 at 9:31 am

Hi Alice. Yes, you can use aluminum foil, and put the paper mache around it. You can also leave the foil inside. Some Elmer’s Glue-All, or any white glue, should work to glue pieces together, although a hot glue gun would be faster.

Good luck with your project. This sounds fun.

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Georgia October 25, 2011 at 5:28 am

Hi :)
I am making a box for my art gcse and instead of buying a wooden box, which can be very expensive, I was told to simply get a cardboard box and paper mâché it. Do you have any tips? I would be very grateful
Thanks
Also instead of stripping newspaper, would it work if I shredded it?

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Jonni October 25, 2011 at 9:20 am

Georgia, you might want to download the free paper mache ebook that we all created earlier this year. You’ll find a ton of ideas about how to use cardboard for a base of your box. The best suggestion you’ll find in the ebook is to completely seal the cardboard before adding paper mache, to keep it from warping.

Using tiny strips of shredded paper would take a very long time. I would suggest going in the other direction, and use really big pieces of newspaper. You can brush the paste onto the cardboard, then lay your newspaper over that. Use at least 6 layers. Some people dry each layer before adding the next one, some people add them all at once – it seems to be a matter of choice.

Enjoy!

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Nancy November 3, 2011 at 4:41 pm

In making molds, to reproduce the paper mache sculptures, do have a suggestion as to which product and process works best? Thanks, Nancy. Ps: I enjoy your website ..it’s the best of it’s kind and gives every step needed for papermache sculpture..I’ve made several really cute dogs and plan to make more with
Christmas hats for gifts and ornaments this Christmas..

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Jonni November 4, 2011 at 7:53 am

Hi Nancy. I’ve tried several mold making products, and I like the silicone product best. I’m really not an expert in molds thought – I just like to experiment. I show how to make the silicone mold here.

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renne November 8, 2011 at 6:57 pm

Does anyone know when you use tissue paper does it retain any of its color? and which recipe would be good for tissue paper?

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Jonni November 9, 2011 at 9:05 am

I don’t know the answer to that one. You would need a glue or paste that doesn’t destroy the paper or cause the color to run too much. The best place for this question would be the Yahoo PaperMacheArt group – I’m sure some of the people on that group will know the answer. (And I’d love to know, too – so if you find out, please come back and let us know.)

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phil December 17, 2011 at 4:40 pm

i have used crepe paper, the sort that comes when you get gift in a birthday bag rather than wrapped. it generally gets a little darker but orange stays orange, blue stays blue and so on.

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Bex November 11, 2011 at 6:17 pm

Add salt to your paper mache. It helps retard mold and bacteria growth.

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Liz November 15, 2011 at 4:09 pm

Try adding white glue (regular, not the washable school kind) to the acrylic paint. I usually do about half and half. May need a little more paint for the desired coverage, or do a second coat. ( fyi — Works great for painting pumpkins as well!)

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Amanda November 24, 2011 at 3:54 am

It is almost 6am and I have been up ALL night trying to make pinatas for my son’s birthday party in a few days. I did the “raw paste” recipe and each of the pinatas now has 3 layers of paper on them, and appear to be dry, but they are not hard AT ALL!! What am I doing wrong?

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Jonni November 24, 2011 at 10:09 am

Amanda, perhaps the paper is still quite wet on the inside (a real possibility), in which case you just need to let is dry a bit longer. Three layers isn’t very many, and your pinatas might not ever get really hard. However, if they get too hard, the kids won’t be able to break them. I’d give them a bit longer to dry and see if that helps.

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Matt November 29, 2011 at 5:34 pm

I’m about to build a VERY large papier-mâché sculpture for NYE, how long would you say is the average drying time if you you apply two layers at a once? I’ll be using newspaper, probably whole pages, and a flour/glue paste.
Any suggestions and or ideas would be much appreciated.
Cheers.

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Jonni November 30, 2011 at 3:33 pm

Hi Matt. Your paper mache will take at least 24 hours to dry. Since each wet layer will seep into the dry layers below them, it could take even longer. Give yourself plenty of time for your project. And, if possible, point some fans at the drying paper mache to help speed up the drying time.

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Matt December 1, 2011 at 2:39 pm

Good idea, thanks.

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Louise November 30, 2011 at 12:39 pm

http://planetgreen.discovery.com/tech-transport/make-your-own-cooking-spray.html

This is a link to an ad for a book, but it includes a super-quick, non-toxic cooking spray, if you need to keep your mache from sticking to hard to a balloon. I recently had a sculpture implode for that reason as the balloon–which couldn’t be extracted– contracted days after the sculpture seemed to have hardened.

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Jonni November 30, 2011 at 3:30 pm

Thanks, Loise. That looks like something that would be good to check out.

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lalala November 30, 2011 at 5:43 pm

hi jonni i want to know if you could do a tutorial of a black cat please thank you

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Jonni December 1, 2011 at 7:53 am

I’m in the middle of a huge book project, so I won’t have time to do any tutorials for a while. Sorry.

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Erica December 15, 2011 at 9:47 am

I have to make a paper mache volcano for a project in my 7th grade class. The recipe that I used (1 cup water to every 2 cups flour) Didn’t exactly work out the way I planned. I had to go and be kinda stupid and wait until the last minute to start on it. I plan to turn it in tomorrow. But what is an EASY, QUICK way to make paper mache? Because it has to be done by like 4:30. PLEASE HELP!!!! This is driving me insane!! :(

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Jonni December 15, 2011 at 5:04 pm

Hi Erica. I probably didn’t find your comment in time. The answer, though, is “there is no super-fast way to paper mache.” Although it’s probably too late, I would recommend switching to plaster cloth from a hobby store.

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phil December 17, 2011 at 4:31 pm

hello, maybe someone here has encountered and solved a similar problem to the one i am facing.

i have made a very satisfactory mold for a horn. I really dig symmetry.

i made a toilet paper pulp, the binding agent was a boiled flour and water paste.

the problem was shrinkage. by the time the item set it was much smaller than required and in fact had shrunk inside the mold.

removing it was not an issue unfortunately.

any tips?

please? and thank you in advance for any help provided.

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Jonni December 18, 2011 at 12:33 pm

I don’t think there is any way to prevent paper pulp from shrinking. You might want to take a look at the paper/plaster recipe I used in my cougar and hippo molds – it doesn’t shrink, but you do need to make sure you use a release so it doesn’t stick to your mold. Unless you’re using silicone, of course. You can find the post here.

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Elly December 18, 2011 at 8:26 pm

Hi. I have just taken an interest in making paper mache and am currently doing my very first project. I am supposed to make a bonsai tree and it is quite small, about 1 foot tall and 1.5 foot wide. However, I am having difficulties in which paste I should use. I got hold of a really cheap washable glue that is almost like Elmer’s glue, but I just want to make sure that it would result to a really hard and strong paper mache. I do not mind cooking up a paste but I’m worried about it. The framework for my bonsai is also a bit complex. Anyway, should I have used other paste recipes? I do not wish for the paper mache to have any molds or bugs when it dries and it is difficult to make this paper mache completely dry in the very humid weather where I live at. I cannot use any oven to help dry it. Any tips and ideas that can help me will be greatly appreciated. I really want this very first paper mache project of mine to turn out great and ‘almost perfect’. Thanks!

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Jonni December 19, 2011 at 12:14 pm

If you have access to Elmer’s Glue All or a carpenter’s glue, that might be a better choice. I’m not sure if the washable glue will do what you want it to, but you can do an small experimental piece to find out.

Your sculpture will dry pretty fast if you put it in front of a fan. The mold and bug issue happens when paper mache stays wet long enough for the critters to move in. A bonsai-shaped sculpture should allow a lot of air movement around all the pieces, and with a fan moving that air, it should be dry very quickly.

Good luck with your project.

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Elly December 19, 2011 at 8:52 pm

Thank you. I will start on my project soon and hope everything turns out well.

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Heather December 20, 2011 at 5:47 pm

I use this same recipe for my seed cards.
After it’s all pulsed up into a smooth gravy
Pour it into a rectangle 2-3in deep pan.
Take some screen a litt bigger than the size of card u want,
and deep it down the side of pain, it wil be laying flat on the bottom first time.
Pull it up slowly & u will have some paper pulp on top, if it’s a even coat & thick
Has u want, then u pour some flower seeds over top.
(u can had the seeds to the pulp after it is in the pan, do not blend them in the
Blender!!) that way u get seeds all through the “card”
Lay it on newspaper to dry, then paint, draw, or decorate how ever u want. Right instructions on back or on a tag telling them to tear their card into strips, throw on ground where they want & sprinkle water over them & they’ll have pretty spring flowers soon.
Note: use recyclable paper so it’s safe for enviroment, be sure to use paper in like colors, newspaper makes a muddled gray mess, use seeds that grow in area of
Person it’s going too. And have fun!! Oh u can use dryer lint to!!
Try putting all reds together in wash, u will get red or pink lint, same with blue

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Malynda January 8, 2012 at 12:35 am

Is it possible to water seal something thats paper mache? I intend to paint it but I mean after that, I’m planning on something that would be worn out in the weather, be it sun and rain, heat and cold..

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Jonni January 8, 2012 at 11:25 am

Malynda, if you’re going to wear a mask or other paper mache item in rainy weather, but you won’t be leaving it outside, you can probably use a polyurethane varnish from the hardware store that’s rated for outside use. Any hardware store clerk should be able to help you finding one that will work. Be sure to seal the inside if it’s exposed, or your artwork will melt in the rain.

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Ann January 9, 2012 at 7:20 pm

I’m excited to try my first paper mache and your work is incredible- and such a good guide. I will be working with a class of 4 year olds on making masks…- just eye/nose masks ( not full face) that would tie with string around their heads. I’d love if we could mold them to their faces. Is that possible? What is the best way to create a mask mold for kids?
thank you so much for your help!

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Jonni January 10, 2012 at 7:18 am

Ann, the only way to make a mask that is molded right on the face would be to use plaster gauze. I don’t recommend it, because it can get rather hot, and kids that age move around so much some of it could get in their eyes. You can’t use paper mache for this purpose because it takes a day or two to dry. Professionals make a mold using alginate, which is way beyond the scope of a pre-school class.

You might consider the plastic mask forms, instead. They can be purchased from a hobby store or in bulk at DickBlick.com online, for about a dollar. Or just cut out some cardboard in the shape of a half-mask, and let the kids cover it with paper mache. That’s probably what I’d do.

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Jim Bloom January 11, 2012 at 9:08 am

We are getting ready to build a rather large project for my church.. (9 foot tall 3 dimensional heart)

And I am researching different ideas for the project… Do you think the Paper Mache would work for this project ?

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Jonni January 11, 2012 at 10:57 am

Jim, paper mache would certainly work. If you make a hollow armature out of chicken wire, it will also be quite light.

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Jim Bloom January 11, 2012 at 1:19 pm

Awesome.. Thank you.. we are going to build a small model first and see where we go from there…

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Nikki January 16, 2012 at 1:30 pm

Hello! This site was super helpful, and I was wondering if anyone could help me out :)
For my university assignment, I have to make an object out of paper, and I chose my knitting needles and yarn. I want to be able to actually knit with the knitting needles, and so I was wondering if the paper mache pulp would make them strong enough to knit with.

I had been planning on using the torn strip method to make basic armatures of the needles, and then cover that in layers of the pulp. Would this work? Also, would you recommend leaving them hollow, or should I fill them with something?

Thank you! :)

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Jonni January 16, 2012 at 2:54 pm

I do hope someone else can help, because I’m at a loss ;)

Your needles might break unless you put a wire inside. But I’m not sure. Are you going to knit paper, too?

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bmaskmaker January 16, 2012 at 3:56 pm

Very cool project! I’d actually suggest doing knitting needles out of rolled paper tubes, they’re really sturdy, already pretty smooth, and fairly easy to make. You may need to roll a couple to see how best to get them even (vs. smaller on one end) … But this Jonty video on You Tube can get you started.

http://youtu.be/toSqLy5AjGs

You could then add details to the ends of the needles in the clay if you wanted. : )

I’ve seen several different things over the years about the japanese weaving paper to make cloth, but here’s someone who’s spinning yard from newspaper using a spindle …

http://greenupgrader.com/2138/handspun-recycled-newspaper-yarn/

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robby January 17, 2012 at 3:59 pm

Hi.
This info is amazing. I want to make a hide for my Diamond python (I am in Australia)she is almost 7ft long and quite heavy.
So I have made a mould of the shape I want its approximately 50cm x 40cm x20cm.
I want it to be like a hollow rock and I was hoping someone can give me a recipe to use.
The last one I made was from air drying clay from the shop. It weighs a ton and cost a lot.
Can this be used to make a hide for my snake? It needs to be strong and waterproof.
Thanks in adavance.
Robby.

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Jonni January 18, 2012 at 8:08 am

The paper mache clay is strong, but not waterproof. You have me really curious – what is the purpose of this item? Are you saving the skin after the snake molts? If that’s the case, a taxidermy blog would be the most help.

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Carie January 19, 2012 at 7:28 pm

Per the suggestion here, I put my daughter’s diorama covered in paper mache in the oven last night. It was very large so I set it on the actual bottom of the oven. BAD idea!! Nearly burnt down my house. Literally. Fire!! The previous night I did the same, but had it on the bottom most rack. No fire. So ovens OK, but beware!
Used the recipe of just mixing flour and water. Works great!
Thanks,
Carie

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Kiana January 20, 2012 at 12:32 pm

I added a layer of kitchen roll so I wouldn’t have to paint it white, but it’s gone all wet and it was all hard before but now it’s a bit wet and you can kind of squidge it…
I put it to dry on the radiator but I’m not sure what else to do…
Help… please

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Jonni January 20, 2012 at 3:57 pm

Hi Kiana. Any time you add a wet layer over dry paper mache, the layers underneath will absorb water and get wet again. The only thing you can do is give them all time to dry again.

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Kiana January 21, 2012 at 3:52 am

Can you paint over toilet roll?
I’m not sure…?
I’m making a maraca and after I went over in toilet roll it’s all hard and white but I’m not sure if I can go over it in paint (acrylic)

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Jonni January 21, 2012 at 7:28 am

I’m not sure what you mean by “toilet roll.” You can paint any paper mache with acrylic paint.

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Lindsey January 21, 2012 at 9:53 am

Hi! My husband and I are making a tree with chicken wire and paper mache that we will paint and it is going to be in our soon to arrive baby boys nursery. We have built the tree and are getting ready to paper mache but we want to know what you think the best recipe would be to hold up to the kiddos and make a nice hard tree. Would flour and water work or should I add glue? What is the recipe? Do you soak the paper completely before applying and for how long?
We are using brown recyclable paper roll..is that best?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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Jonni January 21, 2012 at 10:08 am

The brown paper is a good choice. For the paste, I’s dilute some white glue or even carpenters glue with just enough water to make it easy to work with. You’ll need quite a few layers to make it strong enough, and you’ll need to secure it to the wall so it won’t come down if someone tries to climb the tree. I wouldn’t soak the paper – you can dip it in your glue mixture or, better yet, brush the glue onto the tree and stick tour paper on. If you want a bark texture, you can soak the paper to soften it, so you can scrunch it up.

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liz January 21, 2012 at 10:45 pm

Thanks for the article! I’m completely absolutely new to this! Quick question, can one substitute magazines for newspapers? (I have a ton of magazines, and I feel like I can use them for something…..). If so, how would the instructions be different?

Thanks!

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Jonni January 22, 2012 at 1:02 pm

Most people don’t use magazine paper because it’s coated, and too stiff to bend around shapes. You can always try it and see what you think. Don’t let the ink stay on your hands for very long, since I don’t think they use non-toxic inks for magazines. If you do try it, please let us know what you think.

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Barby Cahill January 25, 2012 at 12:05 pm

Hi Jonni,

I did not see the video a month ago but I wrote down your new recipe. I tried to double the recipe, didn’t know the toilet paper should be soaked and spent long time tearing toilet paper. I was so excited that it was going to work but the paste just fell off my balloon. I did put the mass back in an air-tight container. Can it be salvaged or should I try again now that I have seen your video!!!

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Jonni January 25, 2012 at 12:09 pm

Barby, you will probably need to add water to your mix to get it to work – but it will probably be easier to start over.

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Becca February 2, 2012 at 10:01 pm

Thank you for all the amazing information! Your site is a one stop shop! I am super excited to try out your paper mache clay later this week. Thank you so very much for sharing the knowledge you have gained over the years!!
Becca

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Jacob February 3, 2012 at 5:33 am

Who’s heard of Deadmau5? Hes a music artist and I’m making a replica helmet so i need a type of paper mache that holds like heck.

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Jonni February 3, 2012 at 9:24 am

I had to look him up, but you’re right – that would make a cool helmet. You should check out the “rusty iron” Celtic helmet that I made for my new book (at the bottom of that page). I’ll be putting up a video in a few days that includes the recipe for the paper mache paste I’m using, so keep watching the home page of this blog – or sign up for my newsletter.

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Jacob February 4, 2012 at 5:27 am

So I already started on my helmet! My little brother is helping me make it because he wants one too (and me wants me to get finished with his). Our paper mache mix isn’t that lumpy even though we used a spoon. Wish us luck! bye

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Jonni February 4, 2012 at 7:09 am

Good luck, Jacob. I hope you’ll post a picture of your helmets when they’re done. We’d love to see them.

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