
Paper Mache Clay
Update: 1/5/10: I have been messing around with paper mache for over 50 years and up until a few months ago I always came back to the easiest paper mache recipes, using plain old white flour and water paste with torn strips of newspaper.
Now, however, I have abandoned the traditional layered paper process and use my new paper mache clay recipe for all my sculptures. Although most of the tutorials on this site were made before I came up with the clay recipe, any of the patterns and instructions can be easily converted for use with the clay. Just use a thin layer of paper mache clay in place of the layers of paper and paste.
Since most people are not yet familiar with the new clay recipe, I’ll leave the flour paste recipe below. However, I encourage you to give the new clay a try. It isn’t for young children, because it isn’t edible. However, for artists who no longer eat their art materials, it’s a great way to create life-like sculptures with less mess, and less frustration. You can find the new clay recipe here. If you’d like to see what your sculpture may look like after the clay has hardened and the paint has been applied, check out the big cats (bobcat, lion cubs and snow leopard) on my gallery page.
Paper Mache Paste Recipe:

Paper Mache Recipe #1
White flour and water make a remarkably strong paste. In fact, some folks think paper mache is strong enough to build houses with. Your finished sculptures might not be strong enough to hold up a house, but you can sand them and drill them, just like wood.
Boiled Flour and Water Paste:
Many people use a paste that is made of white flour and water that has been brought to a boil. I did some experimenting and found that this paste is not as strong as raw paste, so you’ll need more layers of paper to make your finished sculpture stiff enough. However, it does dry clear, so many people prefer it. To make boiled paste, mix a heaping tablespoon of white flour with a cup of water in a small saucepan and stir until there are no lumps. Put the pan on the stove at medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and allow to cool. The paste will be very runny at this stage, but it will gell as it cools.
Raw Flour and Water Paste:
This is the paste I almost always use, because it’s stronger than boiled paste and you can complete a project with only a few layers of paper. To make up the paste, just pour some white flour in a bowl, and add water gradually until you have a consistency that will work well. (Use a small kitchen mixer so you don’t have any lumps).
How thick should you make your paste? It’s actually up to you. Experiment with thick pastes that resemble hotcake batter, and thin pastes that are runny and watery. You get to decide which ones you prefer.
Keep in mind that it is the flour, and not the water, that gives strength to your paper mache sculpture. And also remember that each layer of paste and paper that is added to your project must dry completely to keep it from developing mold.
Speaking of mold, why not use wallpaper pastes that contain fungicides? There are two reasons why I choose to use white flour pastes, instead of ingredients that prevent mold. First, white flour is ridiculously cheap when compared to any other type of art supply. And second, I hate the idea of dipping my hands in something that contains poison. If small children were helping me with my projects, this would be even more important.
To prevent the development of mold in your projects, you just need to remember that molds cannot grow without water. Therefore, take every effort to dry out your projects completely. I usually put my small sculptures in a warm oven (not over 200 F) or place them near a radiator. Next summer I intend to build a solar dryer that will be large enough for bigger items. The main trick is to make sure the sculpture is dry all the way through – if any dampness is left inside when you apply paint or other finish, the sculpture will eventually rot from the inside out – a truly disappointing development, I assure you.

Paper Mache Recipe #2
Paper Mache Recipe #2:
I like to add a ’skin’ to most of my paper mache projects. To do this, I sand the sculpture after it is completely dry (paper mache can be sanded, sawn and drilled – just like wood). I then mix some carpenter’s glue into my flour and water paste. I sometimes add coloring, as you can see in the photo above. You can use powdered pigments (for the orangutan mask I used powered coloring used for concrete, which is available at a hardware store). You could also add acrylic paints to this paste recipe.
The carpenter’s glue adds a warm color to the paste and prevents it from cracking when it dries. If you add several layers of this paste to the outside of your projects and sand between coats, you can create a completely smooth surface that is perfect for painting or finishing. I leave this last layer off when I want the underlying paper to show through on the finished item, like the paper mache piggy bank.
Papers to Use for Paper Mache:
The traditional paper to use for paper mache is newspaper, which is torn into short strips. (Cut edges should be avoided, because they don’t blend in.) Newspaper is cheap, and it is a soft paper that is easy to bend and mold around a sculpture.
However, you can also use brown kraft paper from paper bags, which will give your sculpture a naturally warm color if the piece is left unpainted.
You can also use softer papers, like paper towels and even tissue paper. The softer papers are used to fashion delicate details, and textured paper towels can be used to add an interesting final coat. The paper mache dragon on this site used the bumpiness of paper towels to represent the dragon’s leathery skin.
Finishing Your Paper Mache Sculpture:
You can use any type of paint on your sculpture. I usually use acrylic craft paints, and a final glaze made from water-based verathane mixed with a bit of brown, or copper paint from the craft store. This final coat is put on with a brush and then immediately rubbed off with a paper towel, leaving the darker color in the dips and valleys of the sculpture. I happen to like the effect, but it is certainly not required.
Another way to make the paste:
If you don’t want to mess with flour and water, and you don’t mind spending the money for some Elmer’s glue, I found this video for a glue-based paper mache paste that you might want to use instead.

Really appreciate your info! Can you tell me what I can apply to the inside of a papier mache bust that I made to give it more weight?
Thanks so much.
Valerie
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Jonni Reply:
December 8th, 2009 at 1:28 pm
Hi Valerie. I like to use plaster of paris to weight sculptures, if needed. If your bust has a flat bottom, you can turn it upside down and remove some of the material you used as the inner form. Then place a plastic bag in the hole you make and fill it with some plaster of paris. Close the bag over the plaster and make sure the bottom is still flat. Allow it to set up, and then close your sculpture’s bottom with a final layer of paper mache.
You do need to isolate the plaster with plastic to prevent the water in the plaster from migrating out into the paper mache.
I hope this helps.
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hi, thanks so much for the info. I’m wondering if you can use a hair dryer (blow dryer) to help dry your paper mache project if you are not able to put it in the oven.
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Jonni Reply:
December 29th, 2009 at 4:22 pm
Sure, you could do that–but it will take a while to get dry all the way through.
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Hello,I really liked your video. I had so many different recipes for paste,but you have given me a clear picture of what the options are and why. I want to do bowls and African symbols for wall hangings. thanks
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Thank you for your paper mache information. I have made quite a few items out of paper mache and I am now in the process of making a large tree so I decided to do a search on which paper mache glue recipe is the strongest and this is how I have bumped into you.
I wanted to add, that some people recommend putting salt in your paste mix to prevent it from molding. Don’t know how true this is but I have done this and no mold so far. Also, some recipes recommend sugar. I wonder if this will make the glue any stronger?
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Jonni Reply:
January 5th, 2010 at 9:43 am
Hi Sarah. Interesting questions.
I’ve never used salt in my paste recipe, but I live on the edge of a desert–that may give you a clue that mold is not my primary concern. Mold does not like salt, probably because it dries out their little bodies, so it should be a good addition to a paper mache paste recipe.
About the sugar, however–I’m no chemist, but I do make bread occasionally. So I know that yeast (a fungus) loves sugar. I would steer clear of that idea.
And the best way to prevent mold is to make sure you dry your projects as fast as possible, and then seal them with a good quality varnish to keep moisture from getting back in.
Hope this helps.
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Hi Jonni, it’s me again, after looking through all the rest of your site. Really fantastic, and thank you for sharing all your techniques. the posts on the horse were particularly fascinating for me as this is the sort of thing I want to do. On Elmer’s Glue-all – I’m sorry to have bothered you asking this.Only after I’d sent the email did I think to look on Google, and sure enough, there it is. Still don’t know if the actual product is available in the UK and France, but I have enough info to go looking now.. (well, when the snow melts, that is – I’ve been snowed in for three days so far!) Actually it’s great – no tv, so I have been creative.
Thanks again, and – a bit belatedly, Happy New Year!
Mags
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Hello there!
First, I must say how truly gifted you are. These sculptures are AMAZING! I am not doing anything that intricate. I have made 3 large dinosaur egg pinatas for my daughters 7th birthday party. There will be about 39 kids in attendance. I made this by covering plastic trash bags (filled with more plastic bags) with paper mache (using the flour/water/salt/cinnamon recipe). I have done 2 layers of paper mache and it’s SLOWLY drying. I plan to spray paint them, then go back and add details with a paint brush – like adding a crack and a claw sticking out, etc. My goal is to give each kid a good whack at the pinata – so each pinata should be able to withhold about 13 whacks before cracking open. What can I do to strengthen them more? I have run out of time to do a 3rd coat as it seems to take longer and longer to dry. Thank you for any insight you can provide to me – It’s much appreciated!
Suzanne
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Jonni Reply:
January 12th, 2010 at 8:59 am
Hi Suzanne. I’ve never made a sculpture that is supposed to break, so I can’t offer much help. I’ll copy your question as a regular post, and see if any of my readers can help.
Check for answers to your question on the new pinata post, here.
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Discovered your site a few days ago & I am sooo intrigued by this recipe. I have been wanting to make some paper mache *heads on a stick* but have been initimidated by the process. Seeing your simplified method gives me courage to try one….today! Let you know how it goes….thanks for being so generous w/ your knowledge & talent!
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Jonni Reply:
January 12th, 2010 at 2:05 pm
Heads on a stick? You have to let us see them when they’re done!
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Thank you so much… this was exactly what I was looking for. I have a craft fair coming up and wanted to make a paper mache head to display one of the hats that I make. I was afraid it was going to cost me an arm and a leg for the materials to make it!
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Jonni Reply:
January 16th, 2010 at 1:06 pm
Hi Jenifer. I checked out the hats you make over on your Etsy site, and they’re very nice. I hope you share a photo of your hat on top of your new paper mache head display. That’s a really good idea – light enough to cart around, and inexpensive so you won’t have to worry too much about dings while packing up at the show. Good luck at the fair!
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How do I dry my artwork? Can I put it in the oven and at what temp…how long? Thanks for the tips.
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Jonni Reply:
January 17th, 2010 at 10:39 am
Yes, you can put small paper mache sculptures in the oven to dry, but keep the temperature under 200. Also keep checking the sculpture, because some shapes will warp. If you don’t catch it in time, it could ruin your work.
This applies only to sculptures made entirely with paper and flour paste. Sculptures made with glue, like Elmers Glue-All, should be dried over a heating vent or out in the sun, instead of in the oven. The baking glue will release plastic into the air, and you probably don’t want to breath plastic, or smell it, either. If you must dry a sculpture made with the paper mache clay recipe on this blog in the oven, keep the temp under 150F.
I find that sculptures actually dry faster when you place them over a heating vent that has warm, forced air. You can also use a fan, with no extra heat. The moving air seems to dry the pieces more quickly than the warm, still air in an oven.
Hope this helps…
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Kristina Reply:
January 17th, 2010 at 10:45 am
It does, thank you so much! We are making a Mardi Gras float.
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Jonni – You are like the Paper Mache Encyclopedia! Thank you so much for the tips – I’m going to try your recipes instead of using the pre-made mix I’ve been buying. Cheap is always good! Thank you so much. xx
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Thank you for the information you have generously shared. I will be trying out paper mache and find that you having experimented with various types of paper mache that will save me the trouble of trying out will save me a lot of time.
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Your information is wonderful, thanks! My Gr.3/4 class is making a teacher-sized inukshuk for the winter Olympics in February. We are using cardboard boxes as the base. We’ll cover it with paper mache and use paper towels as a final layer to provide texture. Our art teacher (not me!) suggested sponge painting it to add to the textured appearance. The kids can’t wait to get started! Your raw recipe’s instructions are just what I needed! I am going to try adding salt as an extra measure to fight mold.
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how long will it take
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Jonni Reply:
February 14th, 2010 at 3:20 pm
I’m not sure what you’re asking. Could you clarify, please?
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For a large sculpture – say 4-5 feet in length and 2-3 ft wide, would you use some sort of framework? If so what would you build the frame with to keep it light weight? I thought of cardboard and possibly some light weight fiberglass screening. Any thoughts?
Rob
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Jonni Reply:
February 15th, 2010 at 3:06 pm
Hi Rob. There are several ways you could go. For the Baby Elephant sculpture, I used particleboard, which is very heavy. I’m now convinced that gluing up two or three layers of corrugated cardboard would have been just as strong, and much lighter.
You could also use Dan Reeder’s wire armature method, which would also be lighter than my particleboard armature, and probably just as strong. (You can use that method for things other than monsters, by the way. I used his wire armature technique when I built the insides of my bobcat and all my other big cats).
And the third method, which I haven’t tried but which obviously works, is shown in the new Papier Mache Design book by Monique Roberts.
I don’t know what you’re using the screening for. I use the expanded aluminum stuff that’s sold in hardware stores for keeping leaves out of gutters when I need to make ears or strong tails with the paper mache clay. The clay keys into it really well, and the result is light and strong.
I hope this helps. Let us see your project when it’s done!
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Thanks so much for all of your information. I have a couple of questions that I’m hoping you have time to answer. I usually used art paste for my Papier Mache which is a clear gel-like glue, but after visting your site I decided to use the traditional flour and water paste. It was great, except for the cracking that occurred. Is there a way to prevent the cracks from happening, and an easy solution for fixing them? Also, I wanted to try making the “skin” for the last layer, but wasn’t sure how much glue to add or how to apply it. Do you brush it on? Thanks so much for your help.
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Jonni Reply:
February 18th, 2010 at 7:42 am
Hi Courtney. You’re right–flour and water paste will crack if you put it on the outside of your sculpture. You can reduce or eliminate the cracking by adding white glue, but you will need to experiment to see how much is needed.
I no longer use the “skin” formula that is on this page–I keep experimenting with different recipes to make the process easier, and I’ve found that I prefer a home-made gesso, which can be colored with acrylic paint or powdered pigments. To make the gesso mix up one tablespoon joint compound (called joint filler in the UK) with one teaspoon white glue and a dab of white acrylic paint. This gesso will smooth out the surface of your sculpture, and I have never seen it crack. It becomes quite hard when dry, but should be protected with acrylic paint or a final varnish.
When I used the paste mixed with glue for skin, I brushed it on and then smoothed it out with my fingers. It would depend on what texture you want. More glue will make it thinner and stronger, without the cracks – experiment with different amounts until you get the look you want.
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Hi there,
I just stumbled upon your website, and I was glad to find so much information on paper mache. My 10 year old just informed me (last minute of course) he has to make a paper mache sculpture of a human heart. The best part is that it’s due on Tuesday. After thinking about this little task for a few seconds I realized all the detail this must require.I have no clue as to how to begin. Do you have any suggestions or advice? Thank you
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Jonni Reply:
February 20th, 2010 at 9:07 pm
Hi Vanessa,
Your son can make an inner form, using crumpled newspapers and masking tape, to create the basic shapes. Rolls of paper might come out at the right places for veins and arteries, while the heart itself could be made from one or two balls of crumpled paper, squashed into the correct shape. Then he would just cover the form with paper strips and paste, three layers should probably be enough. It would be even easier to use the new paper mache clay recipe – there’s a link to the recipe at the top of this page. He can be making the paper and masking tape form while you run to the hardware store for the ingredients. The clay should be added in a very thin layer, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep, and smoothed with the flat side of a knife. Do one side, sit the heart on top of a radiator or furnace register to let it harden, then turn it over and cover the other side. When it’s dry it can be painted.
If he uses the paper strips and paste instead, it can be dried in the oven at about 250F.
I wish him luck. With this kind of deadline, he’s going to need it.
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Great tutorial! I have a question. Is it necessary to use these pastes with paper, or can other materials be substituted? I am working on a costume for a condom fashion show, and I would love to make a latex top hat, fashioned in this style. Is it possible?
Thanks!!
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Jonni Reply:
February 21st, 2010 at 10:17 am
Hi Paige. I don’t know of any transparent material that you could use to create something that looked like latex, other than latex itself. I would suggest that you check out the tutorials at http://www.smooth-on.com/ and make your hat using one of their latex products. I’ve used the Smooth-on latex rubber material for making molds (for cat faces, not condoms…) and the material is actually quite easy to work with.
Have fun.
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Paige Reply:
February 21st, 2010 at 4:52 pm
Thanks for the reply, Jonni!
I actually have a load of latex, in the form of multi-colored condoms, and I was more curious if I could use the paste recipes on them, by substituting strips of condoms for strips of paper?
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Jonni Reply:
February 21st, 2010 at 5:18 pm
Oh, I get it. Sort of like a condom flower thingy? The answer then, is “no.” The flour and water will not stick to latex. I’m not sure if anything will stick to latex. Maybe you could try one of the inexpensive hot glue guns – that might work.
I have a den of Cub Scouts (4th grade) and will be doing papier mache over a simple balloon today — they’ll love getting messy! Wondering if, after some painting — can we cut out small holes and hang for use as a birdhouse? Wondering if they’d like to live in there … seems like it would make a nice cozy home! Many thanks and love your site!
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Jonni Reply:
March 1st, 2010 at 6:25 am
Hi Karen. I’ve wondered about that myself – the only concern I have is that the paper mache will tend to collect dampness from the birds inside the birdhouse, and will get rained on the outside. If you completely seal the paper mache both inside and out with marine varnish, it might hold up. It would be a shame to have a bird family living inside and then have dampness weaken the walls so much the house breaks apart.
Good luck with your projects.
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your site is great! im thinking about starting a project and untill now all the information i needed was on 10 different sites! anyway I have used paper mache a few times when I was a kid but not in years, I am thinking of adding a floor to celing tree in my babys nursery (jungle theme) and was wondering if that was somthing you think would be reasonable for someone with not much experience? and if so do you think I should use the paper or the clay? Thanks for every thing!
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