Paper Mache Tutorials
Some of the tutorials on this site are shown below – but there are many more. (At last count, there were 53 tutorials, with more coming all the time). To see all the paper mache tutorials on the blog, click here. And to see all of the other posts on this site (over 200 and counting) click here. You can also download the free Practical Paper Mache ebook, which was created by readers of this blog, here.
Paper Mache Clay Tutorials
Paper Mache Clay Frog
Paper Mache Clay Butterflies
Paper Mache Clay Snowman
Traditional Paper Mache Tutorials:
Life-Sized Baby Elephant Sculpture:
Large Paper Mache Baby Indian Elephant
Paper Mache Bluebirds
Paper Mache Piggy Bank
Paper Mache Baby Sperm Whale Wall Hanging
Paper Mache Whale Wall Hanging
Paper Mache Orangutan Mask
African Ceremonial Mask
Paper Mache Dragon
Paper Mache Lop-Eared Bunny
Paper Mache Rabbit Sculpture
Paper Mache Panda Sculpture
Paper Mache Long-Beaked Echidna Sculpture
Paper Mache Long-Beaked Echidna Sculpture
Paper Mache Horse Sculpture (see links below)
Paper Mache Horse Sculpture
This last tutorial is a series of posts showing my progress with a fairly complicated and advanced animal sculpture that took two weeks to complete. To read the posts from first to last, follow these links:
- Horse Sculpture Post #1
- Horse Sculpture Post #2
- Horse Sculpture Post #3
- Horse Sculpture Post #4
- Horse Sculpture Post #5
- Horse Sculpture Post #6
- Final Post
Seasonal Decorations:
Christmas Tree Ornaments
Valentines Day Bouquet
Be sure to also check out the many other tutorials and posts on this site.
If you have any questions about any of the tutorials, or just want to sound off, please remember to leave a comment. Your comments make this blog much more fun for me to create.
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Jonni-
I found your website by sure LUCK!… LOL… I am a photographer and well honestly buying photography props from a photography supply store is well OUCH!!! on the pocket book if you know what I mean. So I have taken it upon myself to make a photo prop that I seen and have been wanting… Helps when you have an Artistic mind and can make things. So I am making the bottom half of a cracked open egg shell for a baby to be posed in. I tired to do you paper mache clay and well it didnt work out to well for me but the Joint Compound mades a great bonding agent.
Have a wonderful day and cant wait to see more.
Hugs
Nona
These sculptures are stunning. I never realized that paper mache could be so versatile! Seriously, I think I’ve found a new hobby. Keep up the good work, I’d love to see more!
I want to make a 10ft. paper mache tree . I need it to be easily moved but strong enough to stand alone. This is for a wedding reception and I will need to make 4 trees.I am not sure what the best thing to do for the armature since it will have to be carried upstairs , so it cant be too heavy. Thanks for any hints. Thank you, Kay
Your work is amazing!
you have opened my eyes to the countless possibilities of paper mache.
On another note the youth group from my church is looking to make a dove, with its wings spread open, at least 2 ft tall, and i was wondering what do you suggest we use as the frame?
I would like to make my teleposts downstairs look like a tree. I am going to make a form around it but am wondering a few things and would appreciate your input. I run a daycare and I would like to know if paper mache would be to heavy to form it into a vertical tree from ceiling to floor, and also if it would withstand some bangs and bumps or would it break. Any input or suggestions you have would be greatly appreciate…Thank you
If you use enough layers of paper and paste, the paper mache should take a bit of abuse. However, you might need an engineer or someone with that kind of mind to make sure your trees can’t fall down and injure anyone. If you’re just pasting paper mache over existing columns, that wouldn’t be necessary. However, if you use chicken wire or another kind of armature that is not attached to a post, you’d want to be especially sure that it is solid.
Also, with a daycare you might need to check with the fire department for their rules. Again, if the paper is stuck directly to a post, there should be no fire danger. If there’s any air behind it, think of it as kindling, and make sure it meets the local fire safety standards.
Good luck with your project, and be sure to let us see it when it’s done.
Hi! I love your work! I’m new to the whole paper mache world and you have helped me a lot so far
I’m doing a project for my friends wedding. She wanted a beach themed card box. So I decided to do a sandcastle and it looks great so far. I used foam sheets to get the right size circle I needed for the towers. Worked out perfectly. Have a question though, I wanted to make a form of sand that I can mold over it, kind of like a clay. You think there is any recipe that I can use to do this? Should I just use a mixture of paste from a craft store and sand? I just don’t want to have play beat the clock with it. I’m taking my time and want it smooth and clean looking as possible. Thanks!
-Michelle from Delaware
Michelle, maybe you could mix up some white glue with water to make it thinner, and then mix the sand into it. That would stick to your sculpture, without needing to have any type of paste showing between the grains. It might be worth an experiment, anyway.
Be sure to let us see your sand castle when it’s done – it sounds like a wonderful wedding idea.
Thanks Jonni! I will make sure to post a pic when it’s all done. I’m now getting brave and starting to think of ideas to mache something for my daughter’s Woodland Fairy Party. Like a stump, mushroom, tree, anything whimsical for it.
I’m on a mache kick! 
I was thinking about using cornstarch? I keep seeing it being used in many types of pastes. It seems pretty harmless in case my daughter wants to “help”
The sand is a more of a white texture and hopefully it will turn out okay 
Yes, cornstarch should work. A lot of people use it for paper mache paste.
I would like to know if the paper mache clay can be placed over styrofoam shapes instead of paper and masking tape figures. If so, would I need to cover the styrofoam with something to help the paper clay adhere? Also, I have a can of Bob Ross’s Magic White….is this the same thing as gesso? Thank you, and keep up the good work!
I’ve never tried using a Styrofoam base, but I don’t know why it wouldn’t work. And I’ve never used any of Mr. Ross’s paints, so I can’t answer the last question either. If he uses it as a base to prime his canvases, than it’s the same thing.
Hello your works are wonderful Jonni I need some help with the painting of mache I have a big can of white enamel paint can i use it as a base coat (sealer) on my finished project and use oil colors afterwords? and can tempra paints are used instead of emulsion paint plz answer soon
thanks
You can use any kind of paint on paper mache that will work on ordinary paper. I’m not sure, however, that tempera paint will stick to enamel. You’d want to do a small experiment to find out before coating your entire project with the enamel. It might work, but then again, it might not. Let us know what you find out.
Hi Jonni,
I have my own site now and have been getting lots of spam. How do you filter spam comments?
Thanks,
Matthew
The Askimet plugin, which comes with every wordpress install, will filter out the spam. I also require every comment to be approved by the admin (that’s me) in case some unwelcome garbage gets through the Askimet filter.
Thanks Jonni…I’ll check that out.
Matthew
Sorry, I can’t abbreviate any further
Hello, Jonni Goode!
Greetings from the UK!
This is not really a ‘comment’… but couldn’t find an e-mail address for you on your Website… so I’m hoping this will do? It doesn’t have to be circulated unless you think others might find your suggestions useful.
I have been following your website for quite a while now, and am really impressed with your creations. They are so life-like and inspiring. Although an Ancient Crone of 70 Winters, I decided I had to have a go myself, at creating with your papier mâché clay. However, I’m having one or two problems finding your recommended ingredients… which I hope you can solve for me.
1. I tried to find the ‘joint compound’ you mention and could only find the powder version… no ready mixed joint compound seems to be available here. There was a ready mixed All Purpose ‘Polyfiller’, but was assured by the retailer that it worked differently from joint compound. So I opted for the joint compound powder and am now wondering if I have done the right thing. Do you have any suggestions about using the powder, i.e. reconstituting it with water into a paste before adding to your mix, etc? Or simply adding it in its dry form? How it compares with the ready mixed variety?
2. There are two types of linseed oil, raw and boiled. Which of the two would you recommend for using in the papier mâché clay?
I was considering asking Dark Jonty, as a fellow countryman, for suitable ‘brand’ suggestions… but was so sorry to find he has gone to the Summerlands and is no longer with us. He had such an generous and inquiring mind, and was so talented. Such a great loss to the craft.
I hope you can help, Jonni. Looking forward to hearing from you soon.
Best wishes, Elizabeth Magill.
Hi Elizabeth. I know I can’t fill Jonty’s shoes, but I will try to answer some of your questions. First, if you have some dried joint compound (I’ve been told that you call it joint filler in the UK) you can mix it up as directed on the package and then add it to you recipe. You might be able to play with the amount of water to get the clay the way you like it. It should be soft enough to spread easily with a knife. If your powdered joint filler is the “fast setting” kind, you may have some problems, because they add either plaster or Portland cement, which will harden even while it’s still wet. If it is fast setting, it should say on the label.
I use the boiled linseed oil, because I can buy it at the hardware store and it’s cheaper than the raw linseed oil that I can buy at the art store. Either one will work. The boiled linseed oil does have added drying chemicals, so if very young children are using the paper mache clay, you would probably want to leave it out. The clay will still work just fine without it.
And – just for future reference, you can find the really itty-bitty contact link up at the very top of the page. I like to answer questions in the comments section if possible, though, because if one person asks a question, it’s probable that a few hundred people have the same question but were too shy to ask.
Hello-again, Jonni!
Thanks for your prompt reply. I have now located your ‘contact’ link! Silly me!… either I didn’t look far enough up the page… or your banner may have been covered by the new updated ‘Firefox’ banner I’ve just downloaded.
In case it may be useful for others to know, the filler I purchased was ‘”Blue Hawk” Plasterboard Joint Filler’ by Artex Ltd. I contacted their Technical Dept for advice, but were unable to help… ‘never heard any of *our* products being used like that!’ they said. So I guess I’ll just have to experiment and let you know the result.
I seem to have got one thing right, though! I bought the ‘boiled’ linseed oil… because it had more wood penetrating qualities than the raw version and, if all else failed, I have a garden seat badly in need of some boiled linseed TLC! My one and only grandson is now 22… so the only young child who will be using the clay will be the inner child I take everywhere with me… and what fun we have! Late May I was camping in Dorset (or Dorr-zett, land of the Worzels, inc Worzel Gummage), trying my hand at carving Purbeck stone (i.e. local Portland stone). I have yet to invest in a purple outfit and ‘a red hat that doesn’t go’! I feel that, at last, I can live my life just a little bit outrageously!
Thanks so much for such an informative and inspiring website, Jonni, and for so generously sharing your secrets. The US is really well-endowed with artistry and talent… and the materials to support it.
Kindest regards, Elizabeth
Hello Elizabeth,
I’m from the UK too – actually from Switzerland, but I moved here for university almost three years ago. You’re so right about the US, I’ve been working there three months once and even in the smallest town they had a well equipped toolshop with materials and it seems that a lot of great products are coming from there, not to mention the workshops.
I had therefore a similar problem with the joint compound and decided on a filler. I was looking at Artex Ltd., but was unsure. In our workshop, with have Polycell Polyfilla we use usually for Jesmonite and plaster work and another filler which we usually use for woodwork and fibreglass or Jesmonite as well. I can’t remember the name, but it’s too hard to mix to make the clay. I tried the Polyfilla, as powder and mixed it just before I put it with the rest of the ingredients. However, it took long to dry and I couldn’t store the clay long, as it dried out despite being in a air-tight container and it wasn’t as robust – but it had a nice, smooth texture.
I then took the Homebase homebrand (due to financial reasons, actually…) of joint filler and I mix it with 1/6 to 1/8 with PVA – it makes it smoother and moist and a tiny bit water. It dries quicker, but I can store it for about a week and it’s rock hard as paper mâché clay. And it’s easier to sand later.
That were my experiences, when you worked with the Artex Ltd. brand, can you write your experience? I’m sure there’s room for improvement on mine.
All the best,
Jennifer
Hello, Jennifer!
‘Twas nice to hear from you. Which Uni are you at in the UK, and what are you studying?
I’m curious about your ‘workshop’… what do you do there? Sounds as if you are working with plaster mouldings, wood and fibre-glass… or some things similar? I have a curious disposition… do explain! Is that where you are constructing your life size Emperor Penguin? He looks fantastic already… you have really captured his beak. How did you make the armature?
I’ve just noted from your previous e-mail to Jonni that you are studying props and scenic art… I would have given my eye teeth and molars to have done such a course, and mask making, etc, etc, etc! Educational opportunities and innovations in theatre arts, etc, have increased enormously in 50 years! Lucky you!
I looked up the ‘Jesmonite’ you mentioned, as I’d never heard of it before. There are a number of ‘Jesmonite’ products… which one(s) are you familiar with? I shall consider the ‘Homebase’ filler if the ‘Artex’ doesn’t work… I only really know of ‘Artex” for use in ‘messing up’ ceilings with decorative patterns that can’t then easily be removed!… it is more like a very thick paint. However, this is different from the paint… but as yet an unknown quantity! I’ll let you know how it handles… eventually!
I have been wondering if ‘whiting’ (simple ground chalk) might be worth considering? My school used it for marking tennis courts and hockey fields (…back in the mists of time! Goodness knows what is used today!), and we used to filch it for whitening our canvas gym shoes! It didn’t harden like plaster, and could be resurrected with water if it dried out. Plaster-of-Paris seems to have some kind of catalyst added, causing a chemical reaction, as does ‘Polyfiller’. The PoP can be deactivated (deadened) by heating it up in a kiln… i.e. above standard oven temperatures. I have some whiting already, for the stained glass I dabble in and may try mixing it. If anyone has done this already, I’d be interested to know the results.
Have you ever tried it, Jonni?
Thanks for your suggestions, Jennifer.
All the best, Elizabeth
Elizabeth, the joint compound we use is primarily made of calcium carbonate (whiting, chalk, powdered marble, and several other common names), and if it’s fine enough it should work with the recipe. It works really well when making home-made gesso. More water would need to be added to the recipe, of course. I can’t get it here for a price that would make it feasible, so I haven’t been able to experiment. If you do, please let us know what happens. (I have experimented with Plaster of Paris, and was not happy with the results).
Hi Elizabeth,
nice to hear from you! I’m studying at Central School of Speech and Drama in London – we’re having an exhibition next week with all the crafts students (Scenic Art, Scenic Construction, Props Making, Costume Construction), my penguin will be there too.
I love the work, but coming from Switzerland, I haven’t heard of it before the actual interview (applied for Production and Technical Management) and I’m more from a Fine Art background I taught myself.
It’s supposed to be a King Penguin, actually, I’ve finished it 3 hours ago – maybe some touch ups and I need to varnish it. I just saw that I need to repaint his throat, though. Thanks for your compliment.
There is actually no armature – it’s empty inside, the base is the basic shape of the being on which is sculpted peak, feet, face, attached wings.
I’ve worked with the Jesmonite AC100 and AC300 from JESMONITE – AC100 is for pieces that are going to be outdoors and is much stronger, and AC300 for indoor pieces – you can thin down AC100 with a tiny bit water a bit longer. (It’s really strong! When not sanded down, like a knife – I had more than one cut and holes in my work leggins!)
I haven’t used whiting, so thank you and thanks Jonni for your input. That’s an interesting point!
Best regards,
Jennifer
Wow – fantastic work. (Click on the image above to see the full-sized photo)
Thank you!
I’m really glad I found your page – my mom wants a lifesize capricorn and my sister and I are going to make it in Switzerland. We’ll keep close to your elephant tutorial (we both love) to make it.
(The penguin was very experimental and some things did go wrong, I had to repair his belly about 3 times…)
I made his feet out of super sculpey! I’ve seen it in one of yours – you just put newspaper over super sculpey and I was like – hell yes! So, I put some latex over an avocado, few layers, left it to dry, took it off and used it as a texture tool. So the penguin feet have this nice texture on and then dried it with a heat gun.
He’s called Bobo now. (I say PoPo, the Pretty PaPier-mâché Penguin.)
The texture idea is wonderful! I’m going to remember that one. Be sure to let us see that Capricorn when it’s done, too. I’m sure it’s going to be wonderful.
Hi, Jennifer!
He is an Emperor King Penguin!… he’s too fantastic to be ‘just a king’! I think the crowds will love PoPo… and be even more amazed when they find he is simply made with paper and paste. Is the Exhibition at Central School open to the public?
I’m still curious to know how you went about making his shape, especially as it is so large and also hollow. You have worked a wonder and I’m now dying to see the Capricorn… and perhaps a series of ‘work in progress’ photos?
Well done!
Best wishes, Elizabeth
Hi Elizabeth,
I’m sorry for my late reply, yes, the exhibition is open for the public on Thursday the whole day and on Friday morning until around 11am, I think. If you’re near, you can just come by, the university is just by Swiss Cottage tube station in London – literally a two second walk.
He’s hanging in the room since Tuesday and most people find him cute – he has quite a charming personality, I guess!
I can show you the whole process at the beginning of next week, it’s a bit stressful now here. (It’s a PDF document with describtion and photos of the making process.) I don’t want to absuse Jonni’s homepage, any suggestions?
All the best,
Jennifer
Hi Jonni,
I found your website really inspiring and fascinating! I’m working on a life-size diving (male) king penguin at the moment and finished the base. The penguin itself is hollow and there is – at the moment – a hole in his botton I can reach in with my hand and glue or adjust or hold the penguin, if needed. Tomorrow, I will start texturing him with your papier mâché clay recipe – I’m very excited!
I’m not making the eyes though, I have ordered glass eyes and hope they arrive soon. He also has little hooks to hang him from the ceiling in the exhibition.
Thanks so much for sharing your makes with us! My mum now wants a life-size capricorn for her garden in summer!
Very nice, Jennifer. I do hope you’ll let us see him when he’s done. Is this for a museum display or something?
No, unfortunately not, I’m studying props making and scenic art and we have an annual exhibtion for the 2nd and 3rd years – it’s my first exhibition. I saw your website back in November and decided to make something based on your animals and tutorials to show that you can get good results with papier mâché and basically show off the material.
My tutor recommended to ask the London Zoo, if they want to take him later – apparently, they have introduced a new part for penguins.
I started with the papier mâché clay for about two hours today – amazing, love sculpting with it. I was wondering if you could colour it? For example with black pigment?
Jennifer, he’s going to be absolutely wonderful. If the London Zoo doesn’t want him, they’re crazy.
About the color issue, the answer is “maybe.” I do know that adding too much pigment to concrete weakens it, but concrete is very different stuff. It might be hard to add enough pigment to overpower the white in the clay, and that much pigment could alter the properties of the material. But I don’t know – if you find out, please let us know.
Hello good day Jonni
Thank you very much for this website, all the insights and the recipies. That was exactly what I was looking/hoping for. I´ve been dabbling in paper mache ever so often and like it, but the information on this page is helping me a lot with question I had and projects I want to do. I can´t wait to do some exercises and then post some pictures of me projects. My main interest are masks and head pieces as I am a bodypainter and always need lightweight decorations my models can wear comfortably. Again, thank you for all the shared knowledge.
I have one question thou:
How do I prep a form I want to take a paper mache cast of? I want to make big masks with no undercuts and then mold them over with the old layering technique to get at least ten casts from one mold. I tried oil as a seperation agent but failed. I´ve seen you using masking tape for the orang uthan mask. Would that work on bigger, more detailed structures too? I guess I could also make a plaster cast of my structures and then push the paper clay in. Any thoughts on that?
Thank you very much in advance
best regards from London
Wolf
Hi Wolf. I have to admit that I ended up making my recent masks with a home-made version of “instant paper mache,” which is really just plaster of Paris lightened with paper pulp. The molds I used were made of silicone, but if you don’t have any undercuts a plaster mold would work just fine – as long as you use a release. The result is very light, and surprisingly strong, but not break-proof of course. I’m not sure how they would hold up if they were worn instead of being hung on the wall. But of course, this isn’t really the info you were looking for…
The problem with finding a mold release for paper mache is that the oil will soak into the paste, and you end up with a mold that has paper mache permanently stuck to it. A wax-based release might work – it sounds promising, but I haven’t tried it. Some people put down one layer of wet newspaper over the mold, and then start adding their paper mache from that point. You could also seal your mold really well with shellack or varnish first, which will help protect the mold and will make it harder for the paper mache to stick to it (you’d still need a release), or you can cover the mold with the masking tape, which will pull off the inside of a mask when it dries. You’d need to use the tape every time, of course.
I sure hope you’ll let us see your masks when they’re done. I can tell from the work you show on your website that anything you come up will be wonderful.
Awww, thanks for the compliments.
For a release, somebody just suggested cling film to me, for bigger molds. That sounds good. I´ll definetly give it a try.
Thanks for the reply
I hope I’m ok to tell about my experiences?
I’m working with plaster and wax, water- and oil-based clay molds at the moment and had some difficulties. I even molded over papier mâché.
I now only use clingfilm if I want to protect the mold. Otherwise, I found that vaseline helps – I tried Macwax, which is a wax release agent spray – but it’s only ok. It might work with other molds, though.
The only problem with vaseline is, that you then usually have a thin layer of it on the cast, but you can gently wipe it off and add another layer of thin paper on top of it.
The plaster mold was very tricky, because it was detailled and even had very slight undercuts, so I did that with one layer of only wet paper over vaseline and then added the glue mixture. But I also need to add another layer on to the wet and vaseline one to seal it, once it was released.
I was using brown paper for my penguin and added about 4 layers onto it, filled it and added another layer. He dropped once right onto his peak, but didn’t even had any damage and I once threw him 2 metres far to see how strong it is before I started filling him and he was all good.
Maybe that helps?
Kind regards from London too,
Jennifer
Hi,
I fancy making a classical frieze using your paper mache clay recipe, I think using a wooden backing board with a fine mesh covering say raised say 1/2 to an 1″ off the base to take the sculpture etc… Any suggestions/ideas on this
Colin
Colin, your idea sounds great. The only thing you’ll want to watch out for is cracking as the very large, fairly flat sheet of paper mache clay shrinks a little. If you do get cracks, you can repair them with a bit more clay.
Good luck with it. And please let us see it when it’s done.
Two further questions is Embers glue a paper or wood glue that we call resin W. Also the jointing compound you refer is this the stuff used in plumbing?
Elmers is a paper glue, PVA type. If you ask for a PVA glue you should find one that works. The joint compound is used to finish drywall sheets when making new walls. You can see it being used for it’s intended purpose in this video (that sometimes helps if have to explain it to the guys at the hardware store.) You can see a list of terms that are used to describe joint compound in other languages and countries here, (scroll down the page a bit to find the list).
I was wondering if you’ve ever used an Airbrush on any of your art? I dont have any experience with them but it sure looks like it could be a useful tool for this kind of art.
Hi Mike. I haven’t used an airbrush for many years, but you’re right – it would be a good tool for paper mache. Have you tried it yet?
Bonjour or hello i’m from France and i have 23 years old. Congratulation for your Website is fabulous.
I want to ask you how can i do a big kangaroo because i will work with children in july and the subject is Australia so i want to do this with them (they have between 9 and 12 years old) i found a website but i’m afraid bacause it seems difficult : the link=>
http://bibliocuc.canalblog.com/albums/qui_est_robusta__/photos/30520696-img_1831.html
Jasmin, there is an easier way to make your kangaroo. Make a cardboard pattern of the body, tall and head in profile, and four extra patterns for the legs. Although it’s a very different Australian creature, you can see how the process works here, where you see an echidna being made with paper mache and a pattern. If you use a cardboard pattern, filled out with crumpled paper and masking tape, you avoid the problems with forming wire.
I hope this helps.
How would I make a person? Because for my project I need to make Mao Zedong. Thanks.
That’s a hard question for me to answer, because I’ve never made a figure in paper mache. How big does he need to be? And how soon does it need to be done? Does anyone out there have some suggestions for Cheryl?
Hi,
I think your recipe is really cool and I’m going to try and use it to make flower petals for a prop piece that we’re using for A Midsummer Night’s Dream – Titania’s Bowery? I was wondering how strong the paper mache clay is? Is it sittable? How strong is it in thin strips?
Johanna, your question is a bit difficult to answer. Once the clay is dry it is fairly tough and strong, yet it will bend a little. If it bends a lot, you can break it, but you have to try pretty hard. However the best way to know if the material will work for your purposes is to do an experimental piece and see for yourself.
Hello, I’m wondering if I can get some advice on a piece… I’m going to attempt to make wings for a festival I’ll be attending June 18th this year. And by wings i mean wings that are large enough to be worn and small enough to walk through a crowd while wearing. can you help?
Thank you, Kortnie
Hmm – I wonder if you could make it out of fabric with a wire frame to hold the shape, and then sew on feathers made out of felt. Not paper-mache, of course, but it wouldn’t conk anyone on the head as you walk through the crowd.
Anyone else have some suggestions?
One idea for wings, which I must say I have never done, but might be worth a try. Make the armature out of wire, then use cloth with monster mud. I have never used this, but do a google search and there is a good web site with the recipe. Its made out of joint compound and paint. You dip the cloth in the mixture then attach it to the wire, it dries hard. Would be light weight but fairly strong. Just and idea
Chris
Hello,
I was wanting to know if you know of a place or site that i can get molds of blank masquared masks for both men and women. Im new to this but im doing great at what im doing im just wanting to make more than just one type of mask. I would also be glad to put some of my work up or on to show what ive made.
-Jacob
It looks like you can get forms for human and animal faces on dickblick.com. We would definitely like to see your masks when they’re done. You can see how to add images to comments here.
hi, I was wondering if you could make a tutorial for a 20 foot snake. or 2 10 foot. I need to make one for June 18th. I really have no idea where to start! preferably a snake from the Amazon. thanks so much
Hi Erin. I’m swamped with projects right now, so I don’t have time to make a snake. However, you could use some of the ideas from an old drawing tutorial I did about posing a boa constrictor, but instead of drawing the snake you would make a very long twist of newspaper. Once your newspaper snake is the right shape and is hanging in a natural-looking way, you would cover him with paper mache. After the paper mache is dry, you can paint the skin patterns and other details. This actually sounds like a fun project – I wish I did have time to make a tutorial, because I think I’d like to have a snake sculpture.
Good luck with it – and be sure to let us all see it when it’s done.
Hi Jonni. I need help making a horse head for a stick horse. I would love to have your input. I have only made paper mache years ago as a child. Looking forward to hearing from you! Can’t wait to get started!!
Hi Kay. A stick horse is the very first thing I made with paper mache – boy, that was a loooong time ago.
If I did another one, I’d start with a cardboard pattern, just like I’m doing with the baby paper mache rhino. Then I’d attach the stick to the cardboard head before padding the pattern with crumpled paper and tape. Once that’s done, you can add your paper mache. There are any number of ways to build your armature, but I think using a pattern makes it easier. You can use any photo of a horse’s profile as a model for your pattern. You can always find hundreds of great photographic models for any kind of animal on Google.
Thanks Jonni. I appreciate your help!
Okay, I am finally ready to begin. How do I attach the head to the pole?
I think I’d just tape it on, and then cover the tape with paper mache.
Thanks Jonni. I looked into it and it does have some oil in it, but I’ve found some epoxy putty that dries hard that might do the job, perhaps.
Wondering if my armature is OK. I’m trying to make something similar in shape to this:
http://www.loopknittingshop.com/product/3758/Julie_Arkells_wool
Any idea about the best way to achieve this structure?
What a cute little doll. I think the easy way to make it, if you make one that small size, would be to get some wire and twist together a “skeleton,” and then cover it with aluminum foil to fill out the legs, arms, body and head. The details are fairly simple, so those could also be formed with scrunched-up foil. Then cover with masking tape to hold all the bits of foil in place, and then cover with paper mache.
Be sure to let us know how it turns out.
Thanks so much for your help Jonni. I’m giving that a go – fingers crossed!
I’m making a little papier mache person. I’ve made the armature from cardboard, tape and paper but it only stands up if I weight the feet (they are little feet) with blu tack. Is it OK to papier mache over the blu tack?
Lotte, I’m not sure what blu tack is, but here’s how you can decide if it’s OK – if the material contains oil that could eventually seep through the paper mache, you would need to seal it first. If there’s no oil, and there’s no moisture, you’re good to go.
Hi everyone!
My son is doing an animal research project for school (3rd grade) and he wants to do a paper mache cheetah. I’ve searched sites and can’t seem to find any model ideas. Can anyone help or have suggestions?
Thank you so much!
Jenn, I’m not quite sure what you mean by model ideas. Your son can find hundreds of wonderful photos of cheetahs on Google, so that must not be what you’re looking for. Are you looking for a pattern or a tutorial specifically about that animal? (We don’t have one here, but we do have lots of general instructions about making paper mache animals. Check the Tutorials page).
Hi Jonni,
By model idea I meant what I should make the body out of. I know how to make the paste and what kind of paint to use. I have looked at tons of pictures but don’t know how to actually start it. Do I make sense?
Hi Jenn. I think the tutorials that would help the most are the one for the paper mache echidna (which shows how a pattern made from cardboard is used as the basis for an armature), and the post that shows how to make the cardboard pattern of a snowy owl, based on a sketch or photo. At your son’s age, these techniques might be a bit too advanced, but I don’t know of any online tutorials for making fairly realistic animal sculptures that are written for younger kids.
Does anyone else out there have some suggestions for Jenn?
you may want to look at the dragon… it will help you get started and with just affew tweeks, it could become a cheetah. good luck!
by the way- what position is your cheetah going to be in? standing, sitting, running, laying? that may help find a model for you if you knew what pose you are looking for.
True – and Google Image Search will give you some great ideas, too. Perhaps your son would like to start with a flat wall-hanging, just so his first project won’t be so daunting. He could do it like my baby sperm whale wall hanging, only with four legs, of course.
Hey Jonni!
So I was trying to think up a Mother’s Day gift idea for my Grandma, and i really want to make her a Rain Boot-shaped flower pot , preferably out of paper mache, but i cant think of a way to make it water proof. do you have any suggestions? if not, do you know what else i could make it out of?
thanks so much!
~Leah
Leah, I very much doubt that any paper product can stand up to being in constant contact with water. I could be wrong, of course. How about making a boot that is big enough to hold a deep saucer and a regular pot? Then the plant will still look great, and you don’t have to worry so much about water damage.
Anyone else have any suggestions?
well i was thinking maybe if i did quite affew layers of paper mache and then some JonniClay inside and outside, then coated it with polyurethane (thats probably spelled wrong…) inside and out, and put drainage holes in the bottom then maybe it would hold up to water. i might do that and your idea as well, as this will probably go on my grandma’s (covered) back porch.
thanks!
~Leah
Hi Jonni, I’ve never done Paper Mache before and I need to make a animal for Art Class I think i’m going to do a leopard but I don’t know where to start it also has to be a Armature
Hi Jonni! My seventh grade class have to do book reports in English. I am doing mine on The Tales of Beedle the Bard by J.K. Rowling. In the book, there is a short story called The Warlock’s Hairy Heart. I want to do a model of the (human) heart realistically; could you give me some advice?
Thanks!
~Juli~
One of our readers sent in a link to her blog, where she posted a photo series showing how she made a very realistic human heart with paper mache clay. You can see it here. It’s a fairly advanced project, when you make it like she did. Another reader also asked me for advice on how to make a paper mache heart, and you can see my answer here. I suggested rolls of newspaper for the arteries, but Roxanne’s idea of using cardboard tubes is probably a better idea.
I have to admit that I have no idea how to add the hair. Suggestions, anyone?
I AM A COMPLETE FAN OF THE TALES OF BEEDLE THE BARD!! i love that youre making a hairy heart! i would suggest pulled pollymer stuffing or possibly steel wool for the hair. then again if you are doing the hart realistically then a thin layer of pollymer might be the best idea for that. pull it with your fingers untill it is thin and more fuzzlike than hair, and thats about all i can come up with… unless you want to skin a fuzzy teddy bear… that type of hair might work quite nicely, if you trim it..
anyway good luck!
~Leah
Hi Jonni! i’m not sure if this is where i should put this but i didnt know where else to ask it.
I’m getting ready to set up a paper mache booth at a festival and want to sell some of my origional works (none are your tutorials…are those copyrighted?) but i’m not sure how to price them. could you send me a list of how you price your sculptures?
thanks so much!
~Leah~
p.s. i’m still getting around to putting the pictures up. busy busy you know? and i can’t find the camera…
Pricing is one of those problems that nobody seems to be able to solve. So much depends on the quality of your work and the perceived needs of your potential customers. Most artists are able to raise their prices as they become better known, but everyone struggles to find the right price when they first start out. The danger of pricing too high is that nobody will buy your work. But if you price too low, they may think it devalues your work, and they won’t buy.
Does anyone have any ideas for Leah?
The photos on this site and all the text is copyrighted, by default. (You actually “own” the copyright of your comments, in fact…) However, I don’t mind if you make your own products based on my designs. That’s what the tutorials are for.
ok. thanks for the advice! and as for the copyrighted things, i just used the basics of the animal line up. like i used your owl to help me make an eagle and such. thanks again!
~Leah
Hi Joni,
I have to make a model of an island to scale for school. Do you have any ideas to get started?
If you have a board or heavy cardboard for the base, you can either print out a large copy of the map to tape onto the board, or use grids to re-draw the outline of the island on the board, pretty much the same way I did with the paper mache snowy owl, but with more precision. If you have an elevation view, you could also create cardboard patterns for the bumps and dips in contour, spacing them the proper distance apart. Once you have the outline of the island and the profile is where you want it, you can cover it with a few layers of paper mache. If the base is cardboard, you’ll want to seal it before you add the paper strips and paste to keep it from warping.
I’ve never made anything like this myself, so these are just untried ideas. Perhaps another reader will have more suggestions for you.
Would you recommend me using the original paper mache strips or paper mache clay for this project?
Either the paper strips and paste or the paper mache clay will work just fine, as long as there’s a surface for the clay to sit on. The paper strips can span small open spaces, but the clay would need tape or paper under it for support as it dries.
can i use paper mache clay on a tutorial that you used paper mache with the newspaper strips????
Yes, you sure can. In fact, if I did most of the projects over, I’d use the paper mache clay. It’s less messy, and it’s faster. However, it isn’t recommended for young kids, because of the chemicals in the joint compound and linseed oil.
hi jonni,
the moment i saw ur site i fallen in love with it. I ve never done paper mache, but ur sculptures have inspired me to try it for the first time.
But I do have a question, i wanted to know what type of paint is used in painting the sculptures
I use acrylic paint, but any paint that works on paper will work with paper mache. Enjoy!
I was wondering about that. on one of the discussion pages you said you use a “wash”. what is that?
I probably didn’t use the right technical term – I’m totally self-taught. I like to use a very thin mixture of paint with either water or water and glazing liquid, and wash it over the sculptures. It sinks into the low parts on the surface and highlights the texture. If glazing liquid is used, most of the color can be wiped off, leaving an antiqued look.
Hey Jonni!
I’ve been looking at your tutorials for weeks, and I’m trying to figure out which one I want to make. I absolutely am obsessed with pandas, and I want to try making the panda cub using your tutorial. It looks a bit difficult, so I think I might try the bluebird couple. But I have never touched paper mache, and have a couple questions for you. My first question is, what is the difference between paper mache, and paper clay? Is one easier to use? Or is one of the two less expensive? My second question is, Do i HAVE to use newspaper? I don’t have access to some, so would anything else work?
Thanks!
Hi Beth. You can use any paper you have on hand, as long as it’s soft enough when wet so you can form it around the shape of your sculpture. For instance, some magazine paper is too stiff to work easily, but phone book paper works great.
The paper mache clay recipe on this site is less messy than paper strips and paste, and it’s faster because you only need one layer instead of six or eight. You can also model little details, like eyes, which are hard to do with paper and paste. However, it does cost more, and the supplies come from the hardware store so many people are unfamiliar with them. Which one you choose to use is totally up to you – neither one is “better.”
Thank you SO much!!!
I will be sure to try and use one of your tutorials!!!
Hello Jonni! first of all i’d like to tell you that i love your tutorials and ideas. I have loved trying them out. I do have a question, though. My favorite animal is the peacock and i want to make one out of paper mache. it will be just under life sized. do you have any suggestions on how to make the curve of the neck and body? will i need to make a skeleton like you did with your elephant before actually paper macheing it? amd any ideas on the tail/feathers? thanks for the help!
~Leah~
Lea, the neck will have a lot of stress on it, just because of the shape. I think you’ll need a strong armature to make sure it doesn’t break, and to make sure the connection between the body and neck is very strong. A cardboard inner form that’s reinforced with wire is what I’d recommend.
I made some rather light, slightly bendable feathers for my hen and chicks. I wasn’t happy with the way the sculpture came out, (although I liked those baby kittens) but I think the feather idea has a lot of potential. If I remember correctly, I used the sticky mesh drywall tape that’s usually yellow (you get it at the hardware store) and ran a light wire down the center of it for the feather shaft. Then I laid the “feather” over a lightly curved surface and added a very thin coat of paper mache clay. It’s essentially the same way these butterfly wings were made. If one took more care cutting out the shapes of the feathers, and used an old brush and some thick gesso to define the barbs, I think you could make very realistic feathers this way. The only problem would be getting them to look as airy as peacock feathers, which seem to have barbs that are very far apart.
Does anyone else have some ideas for Leah?
Thanks Jonni! i’ll definitely try that out. Right now i’m re-creating your dragon for my wierd uncle, but after that, i’d liike to start working on my peacock, though most of it might have to wait untill the summer holidays. i just had one last question…. What is gesso? thanks a million! i’ll be sure to post my results if this works!
~Leah
What’s gesso – interesting question. I actually had to look it up to find a definition that made sense. From wikipedia:
It’s quite thick, and is absorbent so it makes a nice base for your paint. It makes the background white so the colors are bright, and brush marks can either be sanded away or left to give a texture.
Hello . My name is Sarah . I find your sculptures interesting
I need your help . My friends and I are working on a science project on the north pole . So we have to make a model of it . Problem is , it is very difficult to find tutorials teaching us how to make these animals . Do you have any website that you could recommend to me ? Or could you give me a start on how to make these animals ? Thank You.
Hi Sarah. We don’t have any tutorials specific to polar bears, reindeer or arctic hares, but you can find links on this page to a panda bear, a horse and domestic rabbits. If you check out those tutorials, it should give you some ideas about how to create the critters for your science project. There are a lot of different techniques shown on this site – choose one that fits best for your project, and go from there.
Hi Jonni, I just today discovered you and have joined your “club”.
My grandson has to make a penguin for a science class project. It’s due March 24th, 2011. We have limited funds for supplies, also tools. What would you suggest we make the armature out of before adding the newspapers. We will be using your clay mixture. He will be doing most of the work himself, so make it easy, please. He is in 4th grade.
Thanks for your help.
Kathi, I have a video that shows some of the process that I used to make the penguin family in my book. You can see it here. I also put together a post that shows how I develop the patterns, using a snowy owl for the model, which you can see here. The snowy owl was looking sideways so the pattern doesn’t include the beak. I suggest that your son have his penguin looking straight ahead, so the beak can be included in the pattern. It makes things a lot easier. Also, since the most challenging part of the tall adult penguin was adding the legs, as you’ll see in the video, he might prefer to make a baby penguin. Since they’re more ball-shaped, you can’t see anything except the feet poking out at the bottom. The baby penguin doesn’t need leg patterns, just a flat bottom so it will stand upright. Then cardboard feet can be attached to the bottom, and it looks very realistic.
I hope we can see your son’s penguin when it’s done. It will be a very fun project.
I am curious if anyone is using tacky glue in the recipes?
i’m not sure about tacky glue, but one time i did try adding normal school glue to the typical raw flour recipe. it turned out okay, but it mainly was more of a mess than it was worth. it did little to affect the color and made only the slightest difference in the strength of the item. i’d recomend sticking with a certain recipe~ don’t combine the two, though it would be interesting to see how tacky glue works. i might try it sometime….
I have a dumb question… when making the paper clay recipe;
do I get dry compound mix [powder in a bag]… or… the already mixed in a bucket?
I have worked with paper clay & love it but the cost is eating away my limited budget so would love to give the mache clay a try
Not a dumb question at all, Peggy. I use the pre-mixed joint compound, and that’s what is used in the recipe. If you have the dry joint compound sitting out in your garage, you can use it, too. Just mix it up according to the manufacturer’s directions first, and then add it to the recipe.
Hi Jonni,
I have discovered your website and love the information that you provide.
I am really interested in your paper clay mache and would like to know if you have ever tried pressing it into a mould? If so, did you have to lubricate the mould and were you satisfied with the finish?
I am also keen to do one of your elephants. I think it’s amazing how simple the project is yet the elephant is so effective. However, that will be a little while off yet.
Thank you for sharing your experiences with us.
Regards
Kim
Hi Kim. I have used a mold for the paper mache clay, but it’s hard to get all the detail. You would definitely need a release, because the glue and joint compound both stick to just about anything. If you’re thinking about using molds, you might want to check out the plaster/paper recipe that I’ve been using for my decorative animal masks.
I’m having a school project and i want to know how i can make a paper mache zebra that is about 18 in high. Do you know how to do this in less than a week.
The fastest way would be to use the instructions for the horse in my book – but the book needs to be ordered from amazon.com and that would take up much of your week. The other option would be to use the horse pattern and instructions, starting here, but use cardboard instead of the drywall that I used (an experiment that wasn’t very successful), and use the paper mache clay recipe instead of paper strips and paste (one thin layer is enough, compared with 8 or more layers of paper and paste – much faster).
Since your zebra will be fairly small and the legs will be very narrow, you’ll need to reinforce the cardboard leg patterns with wire to make them stronger. Also, since the pattern that’s posted on this site is for a colt, you might need to make the legs shorter or the body longer to reflect the proportions of an adult zebra.
Have fun – and please let us see how your zebra turns out. And also, let us know why you have to do it so quickly – just curious…
Oh Yes! please show us how your zebra turns out and if you use a structure to help get the shape right, please post it! I absolutely ADORE zebras and would like to try this out! thanks and good luck!
~Leah~
Hi Jonni! I just love your works! I just love bears, and i was going to make one in clay. but then i realised that i could make a lifesized cub.
But i have no idea how to make one!! Sorry if my english is bad.
Beatrice, you might find the paper mache baby panda tutorial helpful. You would need to change the shapes of course, depending on the kind of bear you make, but the basics will stay the same.
Have fun!
Would a simple armature of strong corrugated cardboard do the trick?
Hi Eunice – did you already tell us what type of sculpture you’re making, and how big it is? I almost always use corregated cardboard for my armatures, covered with crumpled paper and masking tape. If you need something that would be strong enough to sit on, or if it would be so large that the weight of the paper would cause the cardboard to crumple, you would need heavy wire reinforcing or wooden armature.
Need your help. Doing a school art project and trying to get a full figure (of my roommate) to stand upright. I have duct taped her (using plastic bag on her body underneath the ductape) . She has been ductaped from neck to toe, then I took an xacto knife and did a straight line cut in the back of the body.. now trying to find a way on how I can make this stand upright on its own. Please note I am at University and have limited access to hardware supplies. What could I use inside the duct tape to make the body stand upright. Any suggestions, help would be appreciated.
The only thing I can think of to make it stand up easily is some plaster cloth. You might be able to find it at your school’s art supply store or bookstore. I can’t think of anything else that doesn’t require a trip to the hardware store. Can anyone else jump in and offer suggestions?
I’ve only seen this sort of thing done with clear packing tape, and those were mainly partials (usually heads and torsos), any of the full figures i’ve seen were seated. I don’t know how well most of your duct taped figure holds it form, but it seems to me like it needs a cardboard structure that inserts into the feet and up the legs for some basic support. we all need bones. Then some weight in the feet, because we need balance too. like maybe bean bags, or plastic bags filled with gravel or sand should work, at least in my untried mind it does. (i’d probably add cardboard soles as well so that the weight doesn’t defeat the feet forms when/if you try to move it. :3 )
You could also use wire hangers to support the frame from the inside or back & weight the feet like Kris said.
Hi Jonni,
I’m looking to make a swan heart with two swans sitting opposite each other. I was wondering if you could give some pointers on how I should approach the curved neck of the swan. Any tips would be appreciated!
Thanks
Hi Nick. Depending on the size of the swans, you could use a cardboard pattern inside the neck, filled out with crumpled paper and masking tape before applying the paper mache. Or, if the weight of the paper mache would cause the neck to break, you can add wire reinforcing. Or bend a loop of heavy wire into the right curve and fill in between the two pieces of wire with crumpled paper and masking tape.
Now you have me thinking about the stork I have thought about making for the last year – I might try the wire idea myself one of these days.
I hope you’ll let us see the swans when they’re done, if it wouldn’t spoil a surprise for anyone.
Ola Jonni, Congratulations for its technique of work, I am very happy of you. Its technique provides to my sculpture more resistance. Grateful, sending photos soon! Kisses
Hey Jonni!
Wow. The only thing I can say about the amount of effort and time it must have taken you to write up all these tutorials. I was just wondering, with the “Lop Eared Bunny” tutorial, how did you get the leg shapes right. In your tut, there is not a very good shot of the newspaper legs, would you be able to tell me how to get the shapess right. I made an attempt, but just could not get the shape right. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Steph :]
Dear Jonni,
My name is susan. Our school is doing edp (educational devolpement plan) and is was wondering what kind of classes u had to take in high school to improve your wonderful skill.
Hi Susan. I went to a tiny high school (I graduated in a class with 12 kids) and we had no art classes. We did have excellent instruction in literature, science and math, though. And home-ec. which, if you’re younger than I am, you probably have never heard of.
I read somewhere that most sculptors are self-taught, but I don’t know where I saw that, or if it’s true, or if it relates in any way to artists using other media. It would be rather interesting to find out.
What classes would u recommend?
I think I’d take drawing, drafting and color theory classes, if they were available. Any class that gives you hands-on experience, where a qualified teacher can give feedback so you can improve would be helpful. I think learning to draw is probably the most important thing, because it teaches you how to see.
I”m a Geography teacher who needs an idea about making a moddel of a river
Hi Maria. I think your best source for ideas would be the model railroad scenery folks, which you can find through Google or your local hobby store. They make some amazingly realistic scenery, including mountains and rivers, and sometimes they use paper mache. I think they usually build up the forms with foam, and cover it with paper mache. The foam can be found in large sheets at the hardware store, where it is sold for insulation.
Good luck.
Can I use clay on paper mache for more detailed finishing?
Hi, my son has a project for school for which he has to make a model of a place of worship. I wanted to make the golden dome mosque in Jerusalem, how and where would I start?
Appreciate any pointers
Thanx
I think the easiest way for your son to make a model of the mosque would be to find boxes or containers with the right shapes. The model could be built up of containers and other forms, taped together firmly, and then covered either with paper strips and paste or a layer of the paper mache clay.
The dome itself will be a bit tricky because it comes to a point. However, I’m imagining a round salt container with the end removed, and a ball that fits into the end for the basic shape. The sides of the mosque could be cut out of heavy cardboard, and taped together. If I’m looking at the right picture, this is going to be a real challenge – I hope your son paid attention in geometry class. However, the completed project will be a real treasure.
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